The brakes on the '86 are the same as the 4-cyl brakes on '87 and later cars, so I can't see why there would be an issue. Parts on these cars are pretty easily interchangeable.
I guess I wasnt clear enough, I want to upgrade to the 11" V8 brakes on 87 and up Mustangs but keep the 10 holes I currently have.
I have both versions in my garage. The differences are just as you described. It's just a cosmetic change. The rough finish in the holes and the groove is on the earlier wheels. I believe they made the change around 1989 or 1990.There are in fact 2 different versions....but i don't know if the difference extends beyond cosmetics. I don't remember which is which (old vs. new versions) but there are ones with smooth surface on the inside of the holes and the outter groove, and there's some that are rough cast surface inside the holes and the groove. I've heard people say the cheaper cast versions came on 4 bangers and the smooth versions came on 5.0s, but i think it's just a tooling change or something.
Cost me $20/wheel to have a set chemically stripped before I had them powdercoated black. The shop tried media blasting first, but quicky found that chemicals was the way to go.^^^ That's what i gathered. I'll also add that stripping the clear coat and/or paint off the cast versions is a PITFA
I have both versions in my garage. The differences are just as you described. It's just a cosmetic change. The rough finish in the holes and the groove is on the earlier wheels. I believe they made the change around 1989 or 1990.
The "cheaper 4-banger wheels" is a bunch of. The subtle differences aside, 10-holes are 10-holes.
Since I am restoring the 86 LX Vert i was debating whether or not to change rims or to keep the 10 holes..... If i keep them I will strip them have them cleaned and restored to original finish. To keep them nice and easy to clean I would have them powder coated clear.
Someday i WILL have me a set of 10 and 9 inch 10 holes...10s in the back and 9s in the front with some old school fat rubber all the way around.
I'm gonna toss the ol'That must be why I got lucky pulling my wheel from a junk yard... Must have been a pre-'89 car.
I've read that you are not supposed to powder coat aluminum wheels because the baking process is hot enough to weaken the aluminum's molecular structure. How much effect, I can't say, (the reading I did was more focused on lightweight road racing wheels) but it would be worth researching before you toss them in an oven.
I'm gonna toss the ol'flag on that one too. There are aluminum parts on cars that see a lot more heat than the 350* needed to cure powder coat -- blocks, heads, etc.. And that heating is not as gradual and even as being put in an oven.
Be careful what you ask for! Old school fat rubber is a L60-15 bias ply Goodyear tire. "Newer" old school would be P235/60-15 BF Goodrich T/A Radials.
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