10 second worthy?

ImportEater98

New Member
Mar 17, 2003
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Worcester, MA
Well i have basically my entire build on paper right now.....and before i start ordering the drivetrain/tires etc....please tell me if this is 10's worthy....if it isn't than what is it?

1987 LX Notch, all items in my signature PLUS:

Engine:
D&D Motorsports 342ci 500hp crate motor
5-Speed tranny (most likely a TKO)
Spec Stage 3 Clutch
MSD 6AL, wires, distributer
BG Speed Demon 650 Carb
NOS Sportsman Fogger (200hp shot)

Fuel:
5 Gal. Plastic Fuel Cell
Aeromotive A1000 electric fuel pump (250+gph)

Wheels/Tires:
15x10 Draglites (6 in. b/s)
28x11.5x15 Hoosier Quicktime Pro's
15x3.5 Draglites w/undecided front runners

Suspension:
All in my signature with a flaming river manual rack.

Interior:
Full interior with exception of a rear seat delete, no heating box/controls, 10 point cage, 5 pt harnesses, removal of stock seatbelts, and summit lightweight plastic buckets.

I am shooting to have the car between 2900-3000lbs with my 250lb ass in the cockpit (remember, absolutely no power options in the car)

Am i being optimistic, or will this be possible to run tens?
Any help, recommendations would be great!
Thanks
-John
 
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D&D's power plant looks like the best bang for my buck:
347 (woops, sorry for the typo in the first post, thought it was stock bore)
HV oil pump
Billet Double Roller
Custom Cam (not sure the specs)
AFR 185 heads
5140 forged crank
4340 h beam rods
main girdle support
fully B+B'd
ARP fasteners
flywheel and balancer gaskets, etc.....

One of the only crate mills that offer a FORGED crank.....standard crank could get hairy spinning 500+ HP.
 
S10V8 said:
I don't think you will run 10's with 500hp. low to mid 11's.

Your WAY off on your guesstimate! I can name a dude on corral with a stock 302 shortblock with h/c/i running 11.60 with about 325rwhp ;)

After seeing his "500rwhp" combo i'll admit my guess was off too. Thats NOT a 500hp combo. I'll say around 400rwhp depending on cam (could be a lot more, could be less) Thats a deep deep 11 sec combo on motor (high 10 if it hooks) and a low 10 sec combo on the gas with hi 9 potential, but you'll break the stock block WAY before it runs 9's.
 
Ive only been into 5.0's for about a year now,and from everything Ive read,and heard,and talked about,10's will be a piece of cake.We were just talking about how the 1970LS-6 chevelle had 450hp and was only in the 13's.And if you gave that same 450hp to a Fox body,it would be in the 10's :nice: Will this be your daily driver?
 
Grn92LX said:
After seeing his "500rwhp" combo i'll admit my guess was off too.

I never said it was a 500 RWHP combo, i said it was a 500hp engine CRANK HORSEPOWER. Here's the link.http://www.dndmotorsports.com/?page...a&ps_session=a09e33b4d9c5fd0bd341b0323767cd38
I spoke with someone at D&D and they include a dyno sheet and guarentee that it will make 500hp. So if you dont' think thats a 500hp combo, than i would call D&D and tell them they are wrong. They also mention thier blocks are good to 700hp. I don't see how i can go wrong here.
 
A stock 302 block good to 700hp LOL Good god now i've heard it all! 500 crank hp depends on the intake and camshaft choice. It can definatly happen IF you pick your parts right. More than likely if YOU dyno it after you pick your intake and stuff I bet it won't do more than 460 at the crank. I didnt see anything in that link about an R or a dart block so I dont know how their claiming its good to 680hp.
 
I see where this is going and i'm done after this. get your 500hp 347, add your nitrous and go run 9's on a stock block because an internet website says so. let us know when you notice a crack down the lifter valley :)

Fwiw, i'd do a TFS R intake and a jay allen custom grind cam on that engine if you wanna make good power with those 185's.
 
I am also a little skeptical about 500 HP out of that motor.

Can we get a few more details on the motor?

Stock block right?
What ring package?
Wrist pin - does it interfere with the lower ring land? If so is there a rail under the ring for support?
How far down from the top of the piston is the first ring land?

If this was a n/a motor it wouldn't be so serious. You need to make sure you have the right parts(especially ring pack and top ring land height) when dealing with nitrous. You should be asking every little detail about this motor, right down to torque specs they use. Especially since this thing is being put together out of your sight.

If it were me, I'd skip the stroker and use the $ for a strong block such as an R302. You can then throw more nitrous at it without fear of failure.

If you DO go the route you want to go, I see 10 fairly easily on the juice.

EDIT - Don't believe everything an engine builder tells you...
 
I understand where both of you are coming from...and i'm not trying to say i'm right and you are wrong. Basicaly i am running this configuration by you guys because this is the first pushrod car i've put together. I was all mod motor before this and i know them in and out. Now this engine, naturally aspirated will self destruct with that kind of power is what you are saying?
 
IF it makes 700 HP on the sauce, it will hurt itself eventually. I've seen them last a long time, and I've seen them last 2 passes. Some of it has to do with the tune, some of it might have to do with the machine work or the way the engine was assembled. It might have to do with how much you take it to the strip and dump the clutch at 5K on slicks. It can be a combination of factors.

The fact of the matter is that you are on borrowed time with a stock block at those power levels. Question is, do you want to risk wrecking not only the block, but a good portion of(or mabye all) the rotating assembly at the same time, and possibly damage other components?

Your call, but I'd use the nitrous sparingly. I wouldn't be so worried about it if you're going to pass on the spray. I "doubt" it will make 500 HP and even if it does, the stock block can survive for a while on that.
 
10's is getting farther from my grasp.....but i'm glad there's guys like you on here that know mistakes before i learn them on my own. Those dart blocks are such big money aren't they? What about the "level 10" blocks are those as strong as a dart?
If i go with this route, i think i'll skip the juice, try and make 400 at the wheels and settle for a high 11, low 12. Thats about where i'll be at, right?
 
if it's a stock block it will break , might be right away, might take 6-8 months, depends. off the juice it should last longer, but with the n20 it will split that block in half period. the gurdle is good for like another 20-30 hp maybe.