12s anyone?

jwgroovin · Oct 4, 2008

Add in cams to the bolt ons the folks have been mentioning and you'll start getting into the low 12s easy. I think there are 3 NA vehicles that have got into the 11s (Justin Burcham, Ron Leonard, and I can't remember the 3rd) but that came with a lot of weight reduction and some other assorted tricks. I know of two non-cammed cars at 12.4.

Track prep and getting time behind the wheel are extremely important though...

John

kooldawg6 · Oct 4, 2008

autumn_again said:
just watched pass time tonight.

think it was an 06 gt. stock except CAI, no tune, and a sticky set of tires. ran a 13.01 i think.

That could be possible with stickies. Rare, but possible. Evan Smith (long time Mustang drag racer with MM&FF)a few years ago took a 100% stock manual GT to a 13.3x at Englishtown.

kooldawg6 · Oct 4, 2008

autumn_again said:
if i went with adjustable ones, would i still benefit from the relocation bracket?

I believe the adjustable part helps correct the pinion angle, but the relocation brackets correct the geometry that gets altered from lowering the car.

NastyStang113 · Oct 5, 2008

kooldawg6 said:
I believe the adjustable part helps correct the pinion angle, but the relocation brackets correct the geometry that gets altered from lowering the car.

I've been told the brackets have no bearing on the car being lowered or not. All they do is increase traction. I have no idea because I don't have the brackets. BMR is the one who told me this but who knows ...

NotQuik · Oct 6, 2008

anticubicle said:
That's very impressive for the 3.31's. I thought all along you had 3.55's. 3VStangGT (on SFS) got a 13.0 with 3.55's, XCal2 with Brenspeed Tune and the JLT Intake. He was also borrowing my spare set of DR's

All this talk about N/A makes me tempted to run a few passes N/A when Moroso re-opens.

thanks man, I'm anxious to go with 4.10's but I have no idea when that'll happen...what'd you run n/a wasn't it like a 12.8 or 7?

kooldawg6 · Oct 6, 2008

NastyStang113 said:
I've been told the brackets have no bearing on the car being lowered or not. All they do is increase traction. I have no idea because I don't have the brackets. BMR is the one who told me this but who knows ...

They have to somewhat correct the geometry as when you lower a vehicle you are actually raising the rear axle up closer to the body of the car. On our cars, one end attaches to the body and the other on the axle housing. If you raise the rear axle then the lower control arm no longer has the same angle as stock. By using the brackets you are able to drop the back end of the control arm again. You can use the brackets on non lowered cars as well to help traction, but the brackets help get you back closer to the original angle once lowered.
I'm no expert and this is just a brief "general" explanation.

69mach1-409 · Oct 7, 2008

From what I've read... the lower the rear of the LCA are, the more the wheels push down into the pavement when driving the car forward. The trade off, because there is always a trade off, your ride quality suffers.

I'm looking to get a set of adj. ones, probably CHE's, so I can reset to stock if I'm not planning on going to the track.

crgagner · Oct 11, 2008

Five Oh Brian said:
Add up the cost of all the typical bolt on's - especially headers, cams, etc. - and forced induction can be less expensive. Sure, there are lots of expensive blowers & turbos out there, but there are basic ones, as well, that are quite affordable.

I went with the most basic, non-intercooled supercharger out there (a Vortech V2 S-trim). $3700 for the complete kit (including injectors, fuel pumps, tuner, blower, brackets, inlet/discharge tubes, surge valve, high flow air filter, etc.). $900 to install. $450 to dyno tune. Last week I ran a 12.57 @ 110+ in the 1/4 mile.

Staying N/A and running mid 12's is easy, but the cost is about the same as a basic blower. And a basic blower is easy to upgrade for much more power. You are very limited staying N/A.

+1 on this, I have the Paxton Novi 1200 SL self lubricating system and a set of delete plates making 412 hp and 374 tq. Cost me $3745.00 and its polished. Install took about 6 hrs.

kevanp · Oct 11, 2008

12s

I hit 12.6 today

tune,cai,4.10,rubber, swaybar delete, rear control arms

NastyStang113 · Oct 11, 2008

kooldawg6 said:
They have to somewhat correct the geometry as when you lower a vehicle you are actually raising the rear axle up closer to the body of the car. On our cars, one end attaches to the body and the other on the axle housing. If you raise the rear axle then the lower control arm no longer has the same angle as stock. By using the brackets you are able to drop the back end of the control arm again. You can use the brackets on non lowered cars as well to help traction, but the brackets help get you back closer to the original angle once lowered.
I'm no expert and this is just a brief "general" explanation.

I'd say that's what the UCAs are for ...

Five Oh Brian · Oct 12, 2008

kevanp said:
I hit 12.6 today

tune,cai,4.10,rubber, swaybar delete, rear control arms

Outstanding for a car that traps 107 mph and is still N/A! I'd say you're a very good driver and your car is set up really well (weight transfer, gearing, and especially traction).

NotQuik · Oct 13, 2008

kevanp said:
I hit 12.6 today

tune,cai,4.10,rubber, swaybar delete, rear control arms

nice job

autumn_again · Oct 13, 2008

kevanp said:
I hit 12.6 today

tune,cai,4.10,rubber, swaybar delete, rear control arms

what tires were you running? do you know your tracks elevation?

that is awesome, i am looking into a tune, aluminum driveshaft, and a couple suspension mods, and of course a sticky tire, i hope with practice i can get a run that sweet.

kevanp · Oct 14, 2008

Thanks

I appreciate the feedback. I took me a number of passes to get the feel for the car. I had to relearn how to drive it when I got the M/t rubber. Traction helps

My tip to all of you looking to hit 12's is this:

front swaybar delete kit $160ish
MICKEY THOMPSON ET STREET 26X11.5X17 $280ish

When I added these 2 items I dropped a solid 1/2 second for $500 13.2 -> 12.7
$100 per tenth aint bad

Weight transfer and traction woot

My best time was at Maple Grove Raceway, PA
I don't know the elevation. It was about 75 degrees
Car weighed in at 3610lbs with driver. I removed the seats to fit my tires and floor jack. Plus it helps makeup for my fat ass.

see the bottom of this thread
http://forums.stangnet.com/761759-lca-bushings.html
That happened before I could cut sub 2.0 60'

1.6 60' 12.6 1/4 @106mph
27mpg @65 on 87 octane 100 miles per day sun,rain or snow

update DA = 652

nice tool http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php

NJfourwheeler · Oct 14, 2008

Hookup anyone? Life begins in the first 60 feet.

YouTube - Kevanp hooking up, ET 12.70 @ 107MPH Atco Raceway

I have to say for Kevanp being quite new to drag racing his driving skills impressed me.

firestang70 · Oct 14, 2008

DAs have a big factor for ETs to the OP. My car stock best was a 13.55. Added 4.10s,CAI,87 tune was at 13.0s on PNeros (traction was tough). Adding MT DRs would run higher 12s. Added control arms,DS,plates,UDPs best so far 12.60 @ 107, with a 1.63 60',low elevation,temp was 80,not sure on DA that day. The DA where I live is hardly better than 2000. I think with a great DA and track prep a 12.4 is within reach. I would love to run on the East Coast in the fall in some mineshaft air. Get some seat time and have fun.

NJfourwheeler · Oct 14, 2008

Another video. Sorry for the long intro, Atco was very slow that night.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPP77lr47nQ

I wouldn't knock him for the red lights in either video. It was his first night on the new tires and the first time ever getting any hookup.

12s anyone?

jwgroovin

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kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

NastyStang113

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NotQuik

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

69mach1-409

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crgagner

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kevanp

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Five Oh Brian

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