Electrical 14G Fuselink wire at starter relay smoking

Mrg2783 · Aug 26, 2018

Any ideas why the green wire is getting so hot its bubbling and smoking?

It has a black/orange and red wire that splice into it. Wires run under the battery.

Car runs great now. Then saw the smoke.

Could the coil have sparked on the starter relay and in turn fry the fuse link? The coil was exposed while I did some test starts for some trouble shooting.

The wire was definitely hot. Burnt the s#$t outta my finger.

Mrg2783 · Aug 26, 2018

Some more picks of where it runs. Thanks!

Mrg2783 · Aug 26, 2018

Mrg2783 said:
Some more picks of where it runs. Thanks!

Ok I found a previous thread. I will replace the fuse link. I will also have to check and see if there is a short.

My only question is could it be because I have a new 130AMP Alertnator? I saw in another thread the wire could be over taxed. I did not upgrade the wiring. It ran for atleast 200 miles and was fine. Now smoke.

Mrg2783 · Aug 26, 2018

Figured it out. Bought a new upgraded alternator cable. Tried to delete this post but cant figure it out. Thanks.

General karthief · Aug 26, 2018

Look in the 5.0 technical/how to threads for correct 3g alternator install. And make sure your grounds are all there and in the right places.
Posts that contain problems that are solved with the remedy posted are left so they can be available on google searches.

Blown88GT · Aug 27, 2018

Mrg2783 · Aug 27, 2018

You the man

Blown88GT · Aug 27, 2018

Drawing doesn't show required 125-150A fuse in-line with 4AWG cable.
Don't feel badly, most of the online docs have the wiring done incorrectly, i.e. cutting off the old 2G connector & using the old 10AWG charge wires. My old website might be archived somewhere. http://web.archive.org/
Found it here, without the pics!!!
https://web.archive.org/web/2001020...ge.com:80/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm
Have some old hyperlinks that still work.
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/3ag/3ag.htm

Mrg2783 · Aug 27, 2018

Blown88GT said:
Drawing doesn't show required 125-150A fuse in-line with 4AWG cable.
Don't feel badly, most of the online docs have the wiring done incorrectly, i.e. cutting off the old 2G connector & using the old 10AWG charge wires. My old website might be archived somewhere. http://web.archive.org/
Found it here, without the pics!!!
https://web.archive.org/web/2001020...ge.com:80/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm
Have some old hyperlinks that still work.
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/3ag/3ag.htm

I already had done the install previously on the 130 Amp alternator so I'm good on the two connector part.

My only question, I'm only detaching the stock Alternator cable from the stud on the alternator but DO NOT disconnect the stock alternator wire from the starter solenoid? Because the yellow wire still needs to be connected? Is this correct?

Or do I snip the two black/orange wires near the alternator stud, leave the yellow wire connected and throw on the new cable? Over the old connector that still has the yellow wire connected?

Blown88GT · Aug 27, 2018

Mrg2783 said:
1. I already had done the install previously on the 130 Amp alternator so I'm good on the two connector part.

2. My only question, I'm only detaching the stock Alternator cable from the stud on the alternator but DO NOT disconnect the stock alternator wire from the starter solenoid? Because the yellow wire still needs to be connected? Is this correct?

1. I got this.
2. Not sure if I got this, but I think the answer is YES.
The stock alternator cable is unusable for the 3G, it is way too small. You have to add a 4AWG wire to replace it, not supplement it.
From the link I gave you, these are the important things:

DO NOT remove the existing 10AWG black/orange wire (connects to a green fuse link) from the starter relay. The yellow/white wire (connects through a brown fuse link) connects through the green fuse link and is needed for proper regulator control. By removing the black/orange wire, you have disconnected the yellow/white wire from the battery.

Q3: Do I just follow the other two back until I find where they split, cut it, and splice in my 4 AWG wire?
A3: No. Run the new 4AWG wire from the stud on the back of the new 3G, through the new fuse, and then to the battery. Leave the old Black/Orange wires alone and definitely don't remove anything from the starter relay end.

Q6: It's about the two wires that were left over from the square connector. Do I just cut and tape them off, or do I need to run them to the stud on the alt. too?
A6: You could do it either way. I just left the big square connector on, plugged into nothing. If I ever wanted to put a 2G in (don't know why), I could.

Q7: What I mean is, do these wires serve any purpose now?
A7: They serve an important purpose by being connected at the other end (at the starter relay). The statement "...you can either take the 2-1 10gauge wire out or just tape both ends and get it out of the way..." is incorrect. Your regulator won't work properly if you disconnect the 10AWG wire at the starter relay. If you do remove the 10AWG wire at the starter relay, you have also inadvertently removed the Yellow/White wire from the starter relay. This wire comes from the d-plug and is required for the regulator is work properly.

Read the 1st few paragraphs of the link I gave you. The explanation is right up front about why this is all necessary & why the Ford design was so poor. This isn't the only circuit with a poor design. The headlamp/fog lamp is another one.
I have that write-up on StangNet.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/87-93-gt-fog-lamp-main-light-switch-fix.59/

General karthief · Aug 27, 2018

This may help https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/3g-alternator-fox-upgrade.18/
It's from our 5.0 technical/how to forums.

Mrg2783 · Aug 27, 2018

Blown88GT said:
1. I got this.
2. Not sure if I got this, but I think the answer is YES.
The stock alternator cable is unusable for the 3G, it is way too small. You have to add a 4AWG wire to replace it, not supplement it.
From the link I gave you, these are the important things:

DO NOT remove the existing 10AWG black/orange wire (connects to a green fuse link) from the starter relay. The yellow/white wire (connects through a brown fuse link) connects through the green fuse link and is needed for proper regulator control. By removing the black/orange wire, you have disconnected the yellow/white wire from the battery.

Q3: Do I just follow the other two back until I find where they split, cut it, and splice in my 4 AWG wire?
A3: No. Run the new 4AWG wire from the stud on the back of the new 3G, through the new fuse, and then to the battery. Leave the old Black/Orange wires alone and definitely don't remove anything from the starter relay end.

Q6: It's about the two wires that were left over from the square connector. Do I just cut and tape them off, or do I need to run them to the stud on the alt. too?
A6: You could do it either way. I just left the big square connector on, plugged into nothing. If I ever wanted to put a 2G in (don't know why), I could.

Q7: What I mean is, do these wires serve any purpose now?
A7: They serve an important purpose by being connected at the other end (at the starter relay). The statement "...you can either take the 2-1 10gauge wire out or just tape both ends and get it out of the way..." is incorrect. Your regulator won't work properly if you disconnect the 10AWG wire at the starter relay. If you do remove the 10AWG wire at the starter relay, you have also inadvertently removed the Yellow/White wire from the starter relay. This wire comes from the d-plug and is required for the regulator is work properly.

Read the 1st few paragraphs of the link I gave you. The explanation is right up front about why this is all necessary & why the Ford design was so poor. This isn't the only circuit with a poor design. The headlamp/fog lamp is another one.
I have that write-up on StangNet.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/87-93-gt-fog-lamp-main-light-switch-fix.59/

You cleared it up for me. Thank you. Good to go.

Electrical 14G Fuselink wire at starter relay smoking

Mrg2783

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Mrg2783

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Electrical 14G Fuselink wire at starter relay smoking

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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