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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

15 Psi Safely

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brandonius 2v on roids
  • Start date Start date May 24, 2015

Brandonius 2v on roids

New Member
Nov 11, 2013
15
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2
May 24, 2015
#1
  • May 24, 2015
  • #1
I am currently pushing 8-10psi with p1sc on an internally stock 2v Making about 410whp. I want to get a different pulley and go 15 psi and aim for 500rwhp but I know the internals won't handle it safely. What is the least expensive route to building the motor to handle that power?
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 25, 2015
#2
  • May 25, 2015
  • #2
The motor will be perfectly safe because you wont have the fuel to support 15psi. A mod list would help
 
Reactions: Three50won

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
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69
May 25, 2015
#3
  • May 25, 2015
  • #3
Nightfire said:
The motor will be perfectly safe because you wont have the fuel to support 15psi. A mod list would help
Click to expand...
That just means he'll go lean and it'll blow up even faster than if he did have the fuel to support it.
 

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
May 25, 2015
#4
  • May 25, 2015
  • #4
To push that kind of boost you will need fuel mods and you'll have to beef up the internals. The stock GT crank can handl 15 psi. But you will need H-Beam rods and forged pistons. And since you're gonna be pulling the engine out and building it, or getting a different block and building that, you might as well do headers, head work, and aftermarket cams. What supercharger do you currently have?
 

Brandonius 2v on roids

New Member
Nov 11, 2013
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May 25, 2015
#5
  • May 25, 2015
  • #5
I have full exhaust and 42lb injectors. It's hard to write out all the little mods, but I have fuel and full custom exhaust. I think i have everything i need except internal motor upgrades to handle more powerSo it sounds like forged rods and pistons is what I need 350won? I have headers And p1sc procharger. Do I need blower cams?
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 25, 2015
#6
  • May 25, 2015
  • #6
Alright.....you wont hit 500rwhp with 15lbs. I could only manage 485rwhp with 16psi. If 500 is your goal, some nice blower cams is a good idea. You'll also obviously need some forged rods and pistons. You can use your stock cast crank if you like, they'll handle about 700rwhp or so. Decide on your compression ratio when choosing your pistons. Stock compression is 9.5. I believe a -18cc piston will give you a 9.5 CR. What kind of fuel are you running? You can get away with a 10.1 CR on boost (which will really bump power) with pump gas but the tune needs to be on-point.
 

Brandonius 2v on roids

New Member
Nov 11, 2013
15
0
2
May 25, 2015
#7
  • May 25, 2015
  • #7
I have been using 93 octane with a Sean Hyland tune. I would get get my next tune from performance autosport in richmond. So it sounds like I will need pistons, rods, and blower cams, and a good tune.
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 26, 2015
#8
  • May 26, 2015
  • #8
Yes, if 500rwhp is your goal. 93 is good, I can only get 91 here. Consider upping your compression ratio to 10.1. Coyote motors are 10.1 stock and many run blowers/turbo's and make crazy power.

BTW, what pulley size are you planning to run? I ran a 3.25 on my D1 with a bone stock top end and saw the 16psi. I tried running a 3" pulley but all it did was slip like a mofo on the stock 6-rib. You could try running an over-driver crank pulley to get more boost without any slip
 

Brandonius 2v on roids

New Member
Nov 11, 2013
15
0
2
May 26, 2015
#9
  • May 26, 2015
  • #9
Awesome tip about the compression ratio. I was just going to call procharger and ask what size I needed for 15-16psi. I figured 3.2 or 3.3 judging by yours but that may be different on your blower.
 

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
May 26, 2015
#10
  • May 26, 2015
  • #10
If you're running the GT tank with an upgraded fuel pump, DO NOT let that tank go more than halfway. If you do, then DO NOT go WOT.
 

Brandonius 2v on roids

New Member
Nov 11, 2013
15
0
2
May 26, 2015
#11
  • May 26, 2015
  • #11
I have the stock fuel pump but good to know for future reference thanks.
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 27, 2015
#12
  • May 27, 2015
  • #12
Three50won said:
If you're running the GT tank with an upgraded fuel pump, DO NOT let that tank go more than halfway. If you do, then DO NOT go WOT.
Click to expand...

I have the stock tank with upgraded pumps and I NEVER got to the track with more than a 1/4 tank (to save weight). I've never had any problems with fuel pressure or AFR's
 
Reactions: Three50won

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
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May 28, 2015
#13
  • May 28, 2015
  • #13
Nightfire said:
I have the stock tank with upgraded pumps and I NEVER got to the track with more than a 1/4 tank (to save weight). I've never had any problems with fuel pressure or AFR's
Click to expand...
Nightfire, you have a stock GT tank with one upgraded pump? What pump are you using and what size injectors?
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 28, 2015
#14
  • May 28, 2015
  • #14
310 Aviator on a BAP and 60's
 
Reactions: Three50won

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
May 29, 2015
#15
  • May 29, 2015
  • #15
Nightfire said:
310 Aviator on a BAP and 60's
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. So you have never had the fuel pressure drop at WOT with that set-up?
 
D

Deleted member 38176

May 29, 2015
#16
  • May 29, 2015
  • #16
No sir. My pressure was measured at the rails. That isn't the extent of my fuel though. I have the Aviator pump with a drilled basket, 40-amp BAP, Lethal wiring upgrade, Lethal line upgrade, and the 60's.
 
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