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190wrhp with these mods????

  • Thread starter Thread starter fivemustangs
  • Start date Start date Jul 24, 2009
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BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Jul 25, 2009
#21
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #21
so he pulled out at 4000 rpm? there is the problem right there. if he takes it up to 5500 or so, the horsepower numbers will be alot higher
 
D

Daves94vert

Founding Member
Jan 3, 2001
113
0
17
Jul 25, 2009
#22
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #22
Hey G, I think I must have missed that last sentence where it said it was tuned. Well since the pull was aborted kind of early, there was a decent amt of horses left on the table (I don't think 100 horses but some horses anyway)since he didn't "full pull". How does the car feel before and after the mods. Seat of the pants should be a big indicator. Does your car vibrate at idle? When you rev? A specific RPM? Clutch engaged disengaged? Rule out the driveshaft by disconnecting it and going through the rpm's. What kind of balancer are you using? A new stock balancer can still spin on you and cause vibrations. Make sure your motor is ok (compression test, leakdown test).
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
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st.louis mo 314
Jul 25, 2009
#23
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #23
If the vibration was bad enough at 4k for a dyno operator to stop the pull...look at replacing the HB or check your drivshaft.

14.7 A/F is generally not were people on the tuning forums have seen the best power production. The general range people seem to notice a sweet spot is in the 12.8-13.2 range N/A.

If it put down 190rwhp at 4k rpm and the pull was stopped. I would sort out the reason the pull was stopped before I was worried about 190rwhp at 4k...that is not too bad.
 
I

inphiniti

Active Member
Mar 15, 2003
412
3
28
Providence, RI
Jul 25, 2009
#24
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #24
blksn955.o said:
If the vibration was bad enough at 4k for a dyno operator to stop the pull...look at replacing the HB or check your drivshaft.

14.7 A/F is generally not were people on the tuning forums have seen the best power production. The general range people seem to notice a sweet spot is in the 12.8-13.2 range N/A.

If it put down 190rwhp at 4k rpm and the pull was stopped. I would sort out the reason the pull was stopped before I was worried about 190rwhp at 4k...that is not too bad.
Click to expand...

+1... i would definitely check the harmonc balancer... when i pulled mine a few weeks ago it wasnt BAD, but it wouldve definitely needed to be replaced so its what i did. as like everyone else says, thats why u had such low HP and the fact that a person who was operating the dyno couldnt figure out why such low HP(because he didnt travel the RPMs higher) is beyond me
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
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Acworth, GA
Jul 25, 2009
#25
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #25
fivemustangs said:
When I mean A/F is on its 14.7.....not all the time but the amounts are were they spose to be tuned with a chip, The gauge is off so The fuel pressure is about 40 and the guy said he set it to were it needed to be with his fuel gauge. I bought the balancer new about 5 monthes ago and had it balanced with the rotating assembly within 5 grams. But when the car idles it is kinda a lil ruff and you can feel a little vibration at the idle and when the car is reved a little. And there is a slight vib. when cruizin but I think that is the drive shaft maybe unbalanced? it is an auto shaft. This guy is the only dyno around these parts and I don't think he is the best.... But I will post the dyno sheet tonight, I also found out today that he only brought it up to 4000rpm ( because of vib.) when on the dyno so that would add a lil more power right? its spose to be 5500. but the power stops at 191whp and is a steady line acrost the sheet, with no slop in the charts.
Click to expand...

Hold the phone, crisis averted. If he let out at 4000rpms, that's your problem right there. 190rwhp is about dead on for 4000 rpms.

Kurt
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
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46
MA, USA
Jul 25, 2009
#26
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #26
"so he pulled out at 4000 rpm?" Something about the way this is stated sounds.. real gay lol.
 
F

Fopar

Member
Apr 1, 2007
178
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16
San Marcos, CA
Jul 26, 2009
#27
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #27
Boy you have alot to learn...

A. you don't stop pulls at 4k RPM, if it's vibrating THAT bad that the dyno guy doesn't want to go higher you need to fix some ****

B. 14.7 is no where NEAR ideal for WOT in ANY spark ignition setup, add more fuel you're WAY lean. Aim for bottom 13s...
 

fivemustangs

Member
Dec 22, 2007
222
0
17
Bar Harbor, Maine
Jul 26, 2009
#28
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #28
Ya I prob. wouldn't have wasted everyones time if I knew he stopped the dyno pull at 4000, but i just found out yesterday morning. so I can probibly fix the vib. and convince him to give me a free pull for his **** up. But I still need your guys help for the vibration problem. For the balancer I bought it new for about $30 shipped for a stock replacement, So I will take a look tomorrow at it. But I have tested 4 cylinders and need to test the other 4 for compression but the first ones were all at 120. and the intake has been smoked tested for leaks and nothing there. But I have a buddy with an aluminum drive shaft who is gunna let me test it out tomorrow so I will keep ya posted. But any other comments let me hear um, you are right I am still learning about fuel injection tuning. Thanks!
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
1,672
89
79
Cyprus
Jul 26, 2009
#29
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #29
revhead347 said:
Hold the phone, crisis averted. If he let out at 4000rpms, that's your problem right there. 190rwhp is about dead on for 4000 rpms.

Kurt
Click to expand...

No, I'm afraid that's still low.

191rwhp @ 4000rpm = 251rwtq

He should be making over 300rwtq.
 

1987Rock

Member
May 2, 2007
114
0
16
Jul 26, 2009
#30
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #30
Was your engine internally or externally balanced? If it's internal, you should be running a neutral pressure plate...also, it should have been balanced with that on there too
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Jul 26, 2009
#31
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #31
I took a quick look at a few examples from my files

While I did not have combos using gt40 heads AND a TFS1 cam

I did look at three GT40p head based combos

While it is true these results are somewhat above average for this
type of combo ... we can still see a pattern which can be used
to make a ballpark comparison with the car in question here

Common street car intakes with two being OEM cobra and one Typhoon

Cam used were Comp XE270HR, AFM B25, and e-cam

All pulls were Dynojet with SAE calibration

Peak rwhp range was 295-297
Peak rwtq range was 320-326

190 rwhp was obtained in a range of 3200-3300 rpm
4K rpm yielded a rwhp range of 242-249

Just a little hard data to paint a bigger picture

Grady
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
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214
Acworth, GA
Jul 26, 2009
#32
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #32
Bullitt95 said:
No, I'm afraid that's still low.

191rwhp @ 4000rpm = 251rwtq

He should be making over 300rwtq.
Click to expand...

Not really. That's not far off. My car picks up 100rwhp between 4000 and 5600.

Kurt
 

fivemustangs

Member
Dec 22, 2007
222
0
17
Bar Harbor, Maine
Jul 27, 2009
#33
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #33
The engine was internally balanced. The RWTQ at 4000 is 255. Not sure of the clutch balance but did not vibrate when it was on my other car and was only used for about 2000 miles with the same flywheel. Just got done pressure testing the cylinders and the first one is about 100 and the rest are 120, This was a dry test with the TB closed. I Checked the torque on the heads and also the lifters and everything seemed fine. What is the next step from there? Also wondering if this could be a possible vibration maker? and what are the long term problems problems if one cylinder has a lower compression then the others? The Rings are new moly rings and installed the right way so I dont think it's them (no blue smoke) and there is no mix of oil and coolent in eather locations, so not the head gasket? So my guess would be one of the valves?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
1,641
214
Acworth, GA
Jul 27, 2009
#34
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #34
Well, I wouldn't worry about the compression yet. I would work on the vibration first. It could be anything. Is the driveshaft new?

Kurt
 

rj95svt

Member
Jan 11, 2007
422
0
16
Hayden, AL
Jul 27, 2009
#35
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #35
fivemustangs said:
The engine was internally balanced. The RWTQ at 4000 is 255. Not sure of the clutch balance but did not vibrate when it was on my other car and was only used for about 2000 miles with the same flywheel. Just got done pressure testing the cylinders and the first one is about 100 and the rest are 120, This was a dry test with the TB closed. I Checked the torque on the heads and also the lifters and everything seemed fine. What is the next step from there? Also wondering if this could be a possible vibration maker? and what are the long term problems problems if one cylinder has a lower compression then the others? The Rings are new moly rings and installed the right way so I dont think it's them (no blue smoke) and there is no mix of oil and coolent in eather locations, so not the head gasket? So my guess would be one of the valves?
Click to expand...


82 up 5.0's are externally balanced with 50oz. counterbalance. 81 and earlier engines had 28 oz. counterbalance. If you use a early crank you must use a early balancer and flywheel with the 28oz balance. If your engine is internally balanced you will need 0 balance flywheel and harmonic balancer meaning they will not have any counterweight. As far as I know that means you will have to use a aftermarket balancer and flywheel.
 

fivemustangs

Member
Dec 22, 2007
222
0
17
Bar Harbor, Maine
Jul 27, 2009
#36
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #36
The whole rotation assembly was balanced with the balancer and flywheel included. But is about 20psi lower in one cylinder bad? should I take the head off and take a look or is that not a big deal. the driveshaft is from an auto car and now I have a five speed they do look different, the 5 speed has a damper on the end and this one does not. could the bad compression be making a vib? I am going to try out the shaft tonight of my buddies its a aluminum one so we will see.
 
D

Daves94vert

Founding Member
Jan 3, 2001
113
0
17
Jul 27, 2009
#37
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #37
Read post #22 five
 

fivemustangs

Member
Dec 22, 2007
222
0
17
Bar Harbor, Maine
Jul 28, 2009
#38
  • Jul 28, 2009
  • #38
Ok so I swapped over the drive shaft tonight and I am gunna take it for a spin tomorrow it was late when I got it done and I don't have a inspection sticker so I got to wait til tomorrow. But I was also thinking that I should have mentioned that I have solid motor mounts......Don't know if that would make a little rattle on the car or not. But also still wondering about the cylinder pressure one cylinder is 15-20 psi differnce is that bad?
 

fivemustangs

Member
Dec 22, 2007
222
0
17
Bar Harbor, Maine
Jul 30, 2009
#39
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #39
Ok well I solved the vibration going down the road, it was a combo of, going bad inner tie rod ends and a new aluminum drive shaft. But even now when I feed it the gas, it still seems like its missing a left nut. it barly brakes traction from a 5mph roll I am still wondering about the compression also, is 120 a normal psi for cylinders? and is 100 to low? The rockers are on a pedistol mount and dont need ajusting, they just tighten down on the gt40's I made sure they were good and also made sure the heads were torqued down to specs.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Jul 30, 2009
#40
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #40
fivemustangs said:
The rockers are on a pedistol mount and dont need ajusting, they just tighten down on the gt40's
Click to expand...

This is how it is ONLY when everything is new and being assembled at the
Ford factory

If your heads or block or both have been cut
If your head gasket is thicker or thinner
and so forth

That is why different length pr's and shims are used by SOME who run
OEM iron ped heads

You GOTTA check that stuff :Word:

Grady
 
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