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Brakes 1966 Mustang convertible 289, Auto - Disc brake conversion issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter DRGunn427
  • Start date Start date Feb 26, 2025
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    disc brake conversion mustang 1966
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DRGunn427

Member
Feb 26, 2025
4
4
13
Houston, Texas USA
Feb 26, 2025
#1
  • Feb 26, 2025
  • #1
I have a 1966 Mustang, 289, Auto. I've installed a front disc brake conversion, and I can't get rid of a very soft pedal. It is a kit with front discs and calipers as well as a new booster, proportioning valve, and m/c. No leaks in the system. I've bled, and bled the wheel cylinders over and over. I've pulled the m/c and bench bled that multiple times without any change. I've adjusted the push rod length about 1/16" off the m/c piston at rest. Manifold vacuum pressure runs around 20at idle. I've adjusted the rear brakes to drag slightly. I've adjusted the at rest pedal position super high so I the pedal doesn't hit the floor, but the pedal travel is soft. On top of the extreme pedal travel the brakes don't really work that well. I've test driven the car and it just doesn't stop well. Even at a crawl in my driveway I can't get the brakes to lockup, or even close. I see quite a few past posts from folks with similar issues, but I don't see any with resolution. I see mention of trying to relocate the pushrod connection pin on the brake pedal. Do I need to look into that some more? I can see how that might make it easier or harder to push the pedal but since I can't get what I think is a good function of the brakes I can't see that being my issue. I've seen lots of comments as well about MC piston size and caliper piston size. Certainly I would think a kit sold specifically for my car from a reputable Mustang parts supplier would have that all worked out, right?
One thought had was questioning the throw or travel of the push rod from the booster into the m/c. Without the m/c connected the pushrod from the booster travels about 3/4" forward when the pedal is pushed. When I bench bleed the m/c I can press the piston in about 1 1/2". Does that sound right? I wouldn't think I would be depressing the m/c piston the entire 1 1/2" with the booster pushrod but maybe more than 3/4"? How would you even adjust that? Any thoughts are appreciated?
 
D

dmzenge

Member
Mar 12, 2018
10
2
13
Mar 13, 2025
#2
  • Mar 13, 2025
  • #2
DRGunn427, did you buy the complete disk brake conversion kit from SSBC? If so, I have your exact same setup and I went through many of the same issues you mention. If so, I'll give some insights as to how you might solve the soft pedal. dmzenge
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
2,544
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143
Roy, Utah
Jun 30, 2026
#3
  • Jun 30, 2026
  • #3
Power bleed it just in case
Old Ford Aerostars had a master cylinder recall that was horrible to do in the time allotted
We learned to drill a hole in the old master cylinder cap and use shop air to pressurize the fluid and bleed the system that way
I got to where I could replace one of those master cylinders in less than 20 minutes doing it like that
You have your old master cylinder cap? Consider bleeding yours like that
 

All Stock93

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2016
343
528
123
Jul 23, 2026
#4
  • Jul 23, 2026
  • #4
I was always confused about the free play between the push rod and the m/c piston, and ran into this exact issue with my 70 Boss 302
The ford service manual calls for a slight amount of preload on the piston. I can't recall what the psi is but the factory manual shows a gauge on the brake pedal
I'm dumb! I don't know how free play and pre load can exist at the same time. I had set my push rod gap to .010 and the pedal was terrible. I started removing the m/c and adjusting the push rod out in 1/2 turn increments until the brakes remained engaged slightly after releasing the pedal. Then turned it in by 1/4 turns until the drag was gone
Brakes still are not great compared to modern vehicles but I trust them to stop
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
2,544
719
143
Roy, Utah
Jul 23, 2026
#5
  • Jul 23, 2026
  • #5
Not dumb, me either, and none of us know everything
Wondering
Did you use the special tool they have you fabricate to measure the clearance between the MC and the booster?
Are you sure that correct clearance puts pressure on the MC piston?
All the ones I.ve seen and measured, have around .080" or so of clearance
Last one I saw that some yoyo had adjusted out too far caused a whole bunch of brake shimmy problems on a '95 Taurus IIRR
It was applying the RF brake when hot going down the road (diagonal split brake system) couldn't really tell the LR was braking too
Maybe double check your measurement?
I have not actually ever checked my 69 Boss 302 pushrod clearance, and the vehicles I reference were newer
I know the residual pressure valves on the newer trucks kept some roughly 10 psi of line pressure at the rear brakes through the RABS valve and that residual pressure valve was on the rear port of the MC
 

All Stock93

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2016
343
528
123
Jul 23, 2026
#6
  • Jul 23, 2026
  • #6
I bought this on Amazon for about $10 but the pedal feel was terrible. Brakes did not engage until the bottom of the stroke. Removed the free play and they worked considerably better.

 
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