1967 fastback drip rail moldings

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wils1514

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Sep 20, 2011

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Jun 28, 2021

#1

• Jun 28, 2021

• #1

Just started putting my roof rail trim on. What a pita! Anyways, the passenger side fits horribly! I am using the original weatherstrip trim and a reproduction sash and drip rail trim. All the sheet metal where the trim attaches to is original.
The problem is there is a huge gap between the trim piece that gets riveted to the body and the trim that holds the weatherstrip on the rear by the sail panel. You can see the rivets that hold the sash on. I’m using all the original screw and rivet holes. It did fit this way before I took it apart.
there is about a 1/4” difference in width of the roof rail sheetmetal between the passenger side and driver side.
Has anyone seen this before?Is it possible it could have been this bad from the factory? I’ve tried pulling the trim out to cover the rivets but it’s just too stiff and then it will also interfere with the window. The window fits good to the trim where it is currently installed.

 

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horse sence

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Jun 28, 2021

#2

• Jun 28, 2021

• #2

The molding does not fit up tight ,the area under the molding should be painted body color . You really only notice it with the door glass rolled down

 

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wils1514

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#3

• Jun 28, 2021

• #3

Just to clarify, the area is between the two moldings (the weatherstrip molding and the outside molding that rivets to the body.

 

horse sence

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#4

• Jun 28, 2021

• #4

Looks like you may have a couple of problems . The channel stainless for the rubber should be up closer to left ,the ridge on the flat piece of stainless . It also looks like the stainless trim is not seated on the drip rail ,it should overlap the edge of the flat piece of stainless,i am thinking the flat stainless is to far out towards the drip rail trim . Did you notice other pop rivet holes in the body under the flat molding ?

 

horse sence

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#5

• Jun 28, 2021

• #5

Well ,i couldnt find my pic ,but the rubber channel needs to be more towards the line on the flat molding ,and the circled area should not have a gap

 

horse sence

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#6

• Jun 28, 2021

• #6

This trim is not in the best of shape but it should show fairly close to how it should fit up . I think your flat trim may be out to far ,or the rubber channel is in to far

 

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wils1514

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#7

• Jun 28, 2021

• #7

Thank you for your responses.
I just measured the drip rail edge (the part of the body that the drip rail molding snaps on to). The passenger side is out about 3/16 more than the driver side at the rear. Not sure how I go about fixing it since I'm not going to paint the vehicle for about another 5 years. Think I would need to drill out the spot welds and pull it towards the interior. I think the seam sealer would crack the paint and make a mess.
I've ordered a new drip rail molding to fixed that gap. The current one is kind of tweaked.

 

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wils1514

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#8

• Jun 28, 2021

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Horse sence,
Do you know what it would take to shift the bottom portion of drip rail over? It looks like there are spot welds on the outer edge? The rest of the moldings line up good, it’s basically the last 12” in the rear that are out too far. I was thinking I could then use some 3m structural body panel adhesive I have to secure the portion I shift over. It seems like that’s my only option or put up with it until I do a complete repaint.

 

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horse sence

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#9

• Jun 28, 2021

• #9

You could drill the spot welds in the front ,dont drill the ones in the front of the quarter to drip rail ,those only attach to the quarter and it will all push in together . There may be a reason it is out that far though ,there is a bracket under it that may not allow it to push in . It is worth a try though at the worst you will just be filling the spot welds back in

 

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wils1514

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#10

• Jun 28, 2021

• #10

When you say the front of the quarter to drip rail which ones do you mean?
I was thinking I would have to drill out all of these to shift it closer to the inside seam.
I can't believe it would be this bad from the factory. According to their print in the osbourne manual this is a "master control surface" ha

 

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horse sence

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#11

• Jun 28, 2021

• #11

Ones in blue

 

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wils1514

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#12

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• #12

Wouldn't I want to drill those out as well so I can just move the drip rail channel piece in that the molding snaps on to? I've never dealt with the drip rail sheet metal except for at the front a pillar and from what I've seen in the osbourne manual so maybe I'm looking at it wrong.

 

horse sence

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#13

• Jun 29, 2021

• #13

No ,the quarter sets inside of the drip rail and is spot welded only to the drip rail ,if you drill the drip rail loose from the door jamb it will all be moveable