1967 Shelby GT500

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 21, 2011

#1

• Mar 21, 2011

• #1

A good friend of mine owns this rust free 1967 Shelby GT500 that came from California. He finally decided he wanted us to paint it after he had owned it awhile.

This is what we started with.





I used a razor blade to strip off the blue paint which is not the original color.

 

Fstbk

Member

Sep 7, 2010

215

2

19

Mar 21, 2011

#2

• Mar 21, 2011

• #2

I did it that way on an early bronco, that truck had 5 colors stacked up and the paint literally exploded off the body.


Please keep posting the rest of the steps and tell us what materials you are going to use!

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 22, 2011

#3

• Mar 22, 2011

• #3

The next step is to sand with 80 grit DA to bare metal than epoxy prime with SPI black epoxy

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 22, 2011

#4

• Mar 22, 2011

• #4

I stripped the hood and found a few imperfections and cracks around the scoop. I used panel adhesive on the cracks.







I epoxy primed with SPI epoxy

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

3,333

10

79

Southeastern Pennsylvania

Mar 22, 2011

#5

• Mar 22, 2011

• #5

Here's what it should look like:

 

Fstbk

Member

Sep 7, 2010

215

2

19

Mar 22, 2011

#6

• Mar 22, 2011

• #6

A guy in town has a GT500, his dad bought it new. It is the cause of much salivation....

 

robbz28

10 Year Member

Sep 23, 2009

775

5

39

Epps, LA

Mar 22, 2011

#7

• Mar 22, 2011

• #7

My 67's paint come off the exact same way...my and my brother in law had most of the paint peeled off of that car in a couple of hours with a razor blade, the paint was as thick as peanut brittle. I used a pressure washer and would blow huge chunks the size of maple leaves off of it, it was fun, lol.

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 22, 2011

#8

• Mar 22, 2011

• #8

I sanded it down to bare metal than Brian taped off the undercarriage since it was already restored by the owner.

Sprayed 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer next step is the bodywork.

 

EP429

Member

Jun 30, 2007

125

5

18

Central Texas

Mar 22, 2011

#9

• Mar 22, 2011

• #9

That was quick. Looks great!

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 24, 2011

#10

• Mar 24, 2011

• #10

The back side of this Shelby hood is supposed to be black and has a rough finish. When it was painted years ago they painted it blue. I used stripper for fiberglass stripping small areas at a time with a small wire brush.





After I was finished I washed it a few times and let it sit in the sun. After a few days I epoxy primed.



The surface was very rough after the wire brush so I used a red scuff pad to smooth it out and applied 2 more coats of SPI black epoxy.

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 24, 2011

#11

• Mar 24, 2011

• #11

Bodywork is almost finished on the body

 

Federico Garza

Member

Jun 12, 2009

37

1

9

Mar 25, 2011

#12

• Mar 25, 2011

• #12

Damm , you do nice work

And you make it look relatively simple

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 25, 2011

#13

• Mar 25, 2011

• #13

I finished the bodywork than sprayed a coat of SPI black epoxy.



I waited a couple of hours than sprayed 2 coats of Evercoat Slick Sand

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Mar 25, 2011

#14

• Mar 25, 2011

• #14

Very nice work! I have a question: are you sure that's an original hood? I thought the originals had a slight indentation in the rear bracing to allow the oval air cleaner to clear. Mine is a repro and I had to cut the bracing and add the indentation on mine, but the only real '67 I've ever seen had it from the factory.

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 26, 2011

#15

• Mar 26, 2011

• #15

I'm pretty sure it is the original under the blue was the original green. It is 44 years old and can't talk to fill us in on what happened over the years.

 

mustangmutt

Member

Aug 2, 2010

339

6

18

El Paso, TX

Mar 26, 2011

#16

• Mar 26, 2011

• #16

That is fast work. I'm going to have to chat with my body man about poking a**. Although it looks like the body was nice and straight to begin with, which saves a lot of time. How many people are working on it?

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 26, 2011

#17

• Mar 26, 2011

• #17

There is only two of us. I have done all the body work and priming my son Brian taped and bagged it which took a long time to keep overspray off the undercarriage. I have worked on this for awhile off and on between other projects. This week started taping the body and doing the bodywork and priming.

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Apr 2, 2011

#18

• Apr 2, 2011

• #18

I started block sanding with 80 than 180 almost ready for more primer

 

G

gregski

Active Member

Mar 13, 2010

577

0

28

Sacramento, California

Apr 2, 2011

#19

• Apr 2, 2011

• #19

2+2GT said:

Here's what it should look like:

Click to expand...

Shameless Coffee's advertisement? Oh wait you mean the shinny car in front! lol

 

G

gregski

Active Member

Mar 13, 2010

577

0

28

Sacramento, California

Apr 2, 2011

#20

• Apr 2, 2011

• #20

Time Line Question

Rusty / Brian

Not that I doubt your work, but are your post updates fairly in line with the progress time wise. Your first post is March 21st and the next day you had it stripped to bare metal and epoxy primed? I am just wondering if that's how the pros do it, because that is friggen lightning fast. Unless of course it took you a couple weeks and then you sat down and posted the updates, fine either way I am just trying to get some perspective, thank you in advance.