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1967 won't start... chattering sound when trying

  • Thread starter Thread starter matt888
  • Start date Start date Aug 28, 2007
M

matt888

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Aug 28, 2007
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Indian Rocks Beach
Aug 28, 2007
#1
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #1
She sat in the garage the past few months, but the battery is good (checked the voltage with meter) and the interior lights come on. When I turn the ignition key, I get a rapid clicking sound. Is this the starter or solenoid on the inside of the fender?

Thanks!

Matt
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
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69
BC Canada
Aug 28, 2007
#2
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #2
matt888 said:
She sat in the garage the past few months, but the battery is good (checked the voltage with meter) and the interior lights come on. When I turn the ignition key, I get a rapid clicking sound. Is this the starter or solenoid on the inside of the fender?

Thanks!

Matt
Click to expand...

That noise you are hearing is the starter solenoid fluttering. It's an indicator of poor power to the starter/solenoid. I'd guess that your battery is bad or needs charging. Also check your battery connections and battery cables.
 
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Big_B

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Oct 22, 2003
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Sacramento
Aug 28, 2007
#3
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #3
What he said. Don't just check it at the battery, check it at the solenoid and starter if you can. I have noticed on mine that when it sits for a long time the corrosion builds up between the battery terminals and the cables.
 
T

truck90278

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Aug 28, 2007
#4
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #4
Clean your battery terminals first. using a voltmeter is not enough, although you might get 12 volts, that doesn't mean the battery can provide the AMPs needed to crank the engine. Probably need to stick the battery on a charger for a few hours.
 
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Soaring1

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Aug 28, 2007
#5
  • Aug 28, 2007
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In addition to cleaning the connections, check to see if the cable is getting 12 volts at the point where it hooks up to the solenoid. If it does have 13 something volts there, then your solenoid itself is toast.
 
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matt888

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Aug 28, 2007
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Indian Rocks Beach
Aug 28, 2007
#6
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #6
Soaring1 said:
In addition to cleaning the connections, check to see if the cable is getting 12 volts at the point where it hooks up to the solenoid. If it does have 13 something volts there, then your solenoid itself is toast.
Click to expand...

Check it where on the solenoid? It should indicate 12V where it connects to the battery regardless of whether or not the solenoid is bad right?

Now I checked the starter lead side of the solenoid and there's no voltage. Is this correct when the car is off? Does the ignition switch trip the solenoid, and then supply power to the starter?

I'll get a trickle charger tomorrow and give that a go for a few hours. Probably not a bad idea to have one anyways with a classic in the garage long term. Surprised I haven't needed one for it in the past 5 years...

Matt
 

whatagearhead

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Aug 28, 2007
#7
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #7
The battery may show 12V but under load it doesn't have the "Cranking Amps" to get the job done. Charge your battery overnight. If it persists get it checked out.
 
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ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
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Aug 28, 2007
#8
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #8
matt888 said:
Now I checked the starter lead side of the solenoid and there's no voltage. Is this correct when the car is off? Does the ignition switch trip the solenoid, and then supply power to the starter?

I'll get a trickle charger tomorrow and give that a go for a few hours. Probably not a bad idea to have one anyways with a classic in the garage long term. Surprised I haven't needed one for it in the past 5 years...

Matt
Click to expand...

You've got the solenoid operation correct. It's just a big relay.
Don't bother checking the cable/connections from the solenoid to the starter, you would not get these symptoms if that connection was bad.

If it's a trickle charger, 5 hours probably isn't going to be long enough... you should charge it for 24hrs or longer. If I was you, I'd buy an inexpensive charger that has a switch so that you can switch between 2amp (trickle) and 6amp or higher for normal charging. I think I paid $50 for mine and it even includes a 50amp "start" setting.
 
S

Soaring1

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#9
  • Aug 29, 2007
  • #9
BottleFed70 said:
You've got the solenoid operation correct. It's just a big relay.
Don't bother checking the cable/connections from the solenoid to the starter, you would not get these symptoms if that connection was bad.

If it's a trickle charger, 5 hours probably isn't going to be long enough... you should charge it for 24hrs or longer. If I was you, I'd buy an inexpensive charger that has a switch so that you can switch between 2amp (trickle) and 6amp or higher for normal charging. I think I paid $50 for mine and it even includes a 50amp "start" setting.
Click to expand...

Yeah, those trickle chargers designed to be hooked up for long time storage vehicles are basically useless when you need to have a battery charged now. They are also very expensive. I would just get a charger from Wal-Mart that has at least two stages. 2 amp and 6 amp, but with a shut off when the battery gets full. Let that 2 amp setting charge for a couple of days so you get a deep charge then try it.
 
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matt888

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Aug 29, 2007
#10
  • Aug 29, 2007
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Thanks everyone for your inputs! I charged the battery all day and she started like a champ!
 
S

Soaring1

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Jan 3, 2003
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Texas
Aug 29, 2007
#11
  • Aug 29, 2007
  • #11
matt888 said:
Thanks everyone for your inputs! I charged the battery all day and she started like a champ!
Click to expand...

I like it when a project comes together.
 
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