1968 control valve removal question

[scrutmonkey]

I'm in the middle of getting this thing out for a rebuild...leaking everywhere.

i have a rebuild kit, and drained the fluids. i removed the nuts and cotter pins from the pitman, idler, piston thingy, and what ever was connected to the centerlink....but i can't seem to get this thing out.

Are there any tricks i need to know, or something else I need to remove ?

thanks

EDIT: Man, i think i got it...read a part in one of my books that i missed..thanks guys.

 

[jcode68]

I am seeing a lot of slop in the connection from the pitman to the PS control valve in my 68. Just wondering since you pulled yours apart for a rebuild if there is a bushing or something in this connection that wears out? Does the pitman connection have a ball joint type of end or is it solid? If you have any pics of your rebuild, it would be a great help to see how this is all connected.

 

[scrutmonkey]

yup, on the control valve that connection to the pitman is a ball joint...no bushing there, solid. But for removal you'll probably need a ball joint tool.

have you tightened up the steering box? sorry, no pics...actually, hold up...ill take a quick pic for you..

View attachment 378937

the pitman, just fits over the ball joint in the shaft connected to control valve...then nut with copper pin...that black rubber like part under the pitman on the joint is a rubber piece that encloses the ball joint area and is held by a thin aluminum panel clamp-like thing, hahaha

you'll see the parts here.

 

[jcode68]

Thanks for the info and the pics. So if I have slop in the ball joint in the control valve, is there a way to tighten it up via an adjustment or does the rebuild do this? The other thouht I have is the hole in the pitman may be worn and oblong now. Will have to pull it apart to determine this. Any problems or leaks following the rebuild? Was it difficult? It's certainly cheaper than buying new or rebuilt control valve.

 

[scrutmonkey]

so it wiggles? you could try to take off the copper pin and tighten the top nut a little...if it still wobbles then you may just eant to replace the pitman...any other part of the sterering feel wiggly? i replaced muy idler with an OT roller idler...steering got a little tighter and easier. but then again it could just be all in my head, but at least it didn't hurt anything

 

[stanger53]

The ball stud fits into the pitman arm with a tapered fit. Loosening the nut doesn't loosen the stud from the arm. You will need a puller to pop the stud out of the arm.

Do not use a pickle fork. This will usually pull the ball stud out of the sleeve and bushing it sets in. You may be replacing the stud and bushing, but this will damage the sleeve so that a new bushing will not slide easily in it.

Tightenng the nut on the ball stud will not take any slop out of anything.

There will always be some play in the ball stud inside the bushing when the engine is not running.

For more information on what the control valve is like, go here: http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalve.html

 

[Big_B]

Do not use a pickle fork.

For more information on what the control valve is like, go here: http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalve.html

Listen to this one. He is wise in the ways of control valves.

 

[scrutmonkey]

really good reading...thanks for the link.

 

[jcode68]

Thanks for th link, good reading material. I think I need to spend some more time analyzing where the play is coming from. i didn't realize you would have some play in the control valve while the engine is not running, so maybe what I am seeing is normal.

 

[bchampion]

Control Valve Questions

Go down to AutoZone and rent a Pitman arm puller. It will come right off w/out damaging anything.