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1968 Mustang Wiring issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kynettic
  • Start date Start date Jan 16, 2019
  • Tags Tags
    headlight issues headlight problem mustang problem wiring harness wiring issues
K

Kynettic

Member
Apr 12, 2018
5
1
13
Arkansas
Jan 16, 2019
#1
  • Jan 16, 2019
  • #1
I've been struggling with this issue for about two years now. Off and on between work other projects it's became frustrating and getting pushed to the back burner, but I'm ready to solve it. I have a 1968 mustang. Long story but the car over the past couple years started to lose things such as at first brake lights and runnings lights. Then the headlights started to flicker eventually they quit working. Then my brake lights went out soon thereafter.

I've replaced almost every thing I can think of. Alternator, voltage regulator, headlight switch, dimmer switch, brake light switch, fuses. I can't tell you how many headlight switches I've swapped. I did some more research and I thought maybe I need to have another ground off my battery to the engine bay so I did. Still no avail. I'll have a video of what it is doing. Really does have me stumped, but I'm more than ready to figure it out.

Also I'm not sure what the black wire is for? I thought a ground but when I try to ground it it shoots sparks.

Thanks for any help

Ben

View: https://youtu.be/R2pG1_BUv0E
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Jan 17, 2019
#2
  • Jan 17, 2019
  • #2
Wiring is simple in these cars. Here is the diagram. DO you have a test light? if You want a blow by blow, email me and I'll talk you threw the whole car if you'd like.
CapeCanal@comcast.net
 

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Charlie Cheap

Member
Jun 5, 2018
93
13
18
Abilene, Texas
Jan 17, 2019
#3
  • Jan 17, 2019
  • #3
GROUND WIRES are a big deal with these cars. Make sure the engine is grounded to the body, frame, and alternator. Motor and trans mounts isolate them from the car...so we add heavy wires to make sure it is grounded. The alternator is motor mounted but the battery is body mounted, so make sure there is a good electrical connection between them. I usually add extra grounds on older cars because the gauges are usually grounded to the body. Body to motor grounds are often a problem with intermittent troubles.
 
K

Kynettic

Member
Apr 12, 2018
5
1
13
Arkansas
Jan 17, 2019
#4
  • Jan 17, 2019
  • #4
WORTH said:
Wiring is simple in these cars. Here is the diagram. DO you have a test light? if You want a blow by blow, email me and I'll talk you threw the whole car if you'd like.
CapeCanal@comcast.net
Click to expand...


Email sent
 
K

Kynettic

Member
Apr 12, 2018
5
1
13
Arkansas
Jan 17, 2019
#5
  • Jan 17, 2019
  • #5
Charlie Cheap said:
GROUND WIRES are a big deal with these cars. Make sure the engine is grounded to the body, frame, and alternator. Motor and trans mounts isolate them from the car...so we add heavy wires to make sure it is grounded. The alternator is motor mounted but the battery is body mounted, so make sure there is a good electrical connection between them. I usually add extra grounds on older cars because the gauges are usually grounded to the body. Body to motor grounds are often a problem with intermittent troubles.
Click to expand...


I added two more body grounds. One to a bolt behind the grill. Another to behind the starter sylonoid. It has one to the starter, front of the engine. Back of the intake manifold to the firewall. I've cleaned all these grounds that I've mentioned a few times.
 
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