1973 Mach 1

Welcome to :SNSign:

Thank you for your service! Former Navy here, but Semper Fi!

Now onto the car. Judging by the pics, I don't see anything that can't be fixed. It always comes down to money and how much you are willing to spend. Honestly, I have seen way worse. I think most of the parts you will need are available, but being a 73, you may have to look around for some things. It seems like there are more parts available for the 65-69 cars.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I was sort of in the same boat as you. I bought my car off ebay during my last deployment. I am the third owner and the last one left it in a barn for 18 years after painting it red in a highschool auto craft class.
I had the usual rust areas, rear bumper mount, rear driver quarter panel, floor pans (real bad), fire wall, battery tray.
I found a body shop that will do the work, its going into the shop in about 3 weeks while on mid tour. The shop is going to run me just over 6k for media blasting, body work and paint. And its better to get it done all at once, at least thats my opinion. Getting it done in stages just drags out the agony of getting it done and driving it, again my opinion.
01ragtop is dead on, being a 73 you will have to do your homework for some parts and maybe even pay through the nose for others, just depends on what you want in the end.
I would suggest seriously checking into a few body shops, it doesnt hurt to drive to get to someone you feel comfortable with. You can always trailer the car too. Mine will take 6 months from start to finish, I am in no hurry though cause I wont be home again till Feb 09.
For the engine, are you set on what you got? what about a widsor or a stroked windsor or 302. Just some thoughts.

USMC0351 said:

I've noticed this. I have an idea of the parts I need, a front frame assembly to replace it. I can't find any body shops in my area that will do the rust repair and I don't wanna risk driving it too far because it looks like the front drivers side frame is cracking through. I also find it rather difficult to find parts for my engine thecleveland, as well.

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Cleveland parts are plentiful. Loook here for starters: http://www.network54.com/forums/119419/ Summit Racing has tons of stuff, it's just not listed in the catalog, do a search in their website.. Then there's ebaymotors.com It's ben my experience that Cleveland stuff is hard to get rid of. I've got a 72 motor that's never been apart or rebuilt since it left Ford for sale for 3 years. Good core for a rebuild. And I too want to say thanks for your service. My son's also a Marine, he's a corporal out at Camp Pendleton, he works on the LAV's.

If you tell us what state you're in, someone may be able to recommend a local shop that has treated them well. It's hard to provide any thorough diagnosis based on a few pictures. There's a few other critical areas you'll want to closely inspect before you choose a course of action:

1. The cowl. Open the hood and remove the two plastic grills at the base of the windshield. Inspect with flashlight and reach your arm in there to see what you can pull out and feel. The passenger side has the fresh air intake chimney which is a well known location for rust-through problems. Note, if your passenger side floor gets wet or has serious rust issues - the cowl is usually the problem. To date there are no aftermarket cowl parts available for 71-73. Here's some scary cowl pictures from my green coupe: 73 Cowl 2.

2. Remove rear taillight plastic housings from trunk and inspect the tail panel sheetmetal for rust damage. A rusty interior trunk floor, directly beneath the taillights, is a common sign of a bad taillight seal or rusted sheetmetal. After-market tail panels are available, though NOS is best if you can find it. 73 Mach 1 Tail Panel.

3. Rear lower wheel wells and trunk drop-offs. Rust in this area can come from several areas - Exterior dirt allowed to sit on the lower rear wheel well lip and collect moisture - Bad trunk seal (rust through under the seal itself) - Rear window channel rust through (you'll have to remove the chrome molding to inspect this area). Rear Window Channel 1, Rear Window Channel 2.

Hey welcome, nice color Mach 1 - blue is the fastest. ;-)

Good luck with the restoration!

Wes

Stanger007 said:

Hey welcome, nice color Mach 1 - blue is the fastest. ;-)

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The natural colornetic attraction of blue paint to the blue sky reduces overall vehicle weight, thus making it faster. A respectable amount of grey paint over the engine helps maintain this effect on cloudy days.