I went on ebay looking for parts. I found something called metal hood latch retaining piece. I thought they were always plastic. The metal one looks better. Does anybody have one that they could post a pic of so I can see where and how it goes on? Thanks
1976 Cobra build
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I'm confused as to which part you're talking about? If anything is going to hold the hood down it's going to be steel, not plastic. Plastic doesn't have the strength needed. Post up a link to what you're talking about, maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're talking at....
I don't recognize that piece. It might be a prop rod retainer for when a hood is closed, but not for a later model II as they were plastic.
This is what holds it down to the radiator support when not in use:
And this is the prop rod retainer that holds it to the body and allows it to pivot:
This is what holds it down to the radiator support when not in use:
And this is the prop rod retainer that holds it to the body and allows it to pivot:
Nice to see another generation carrying the torch. I noticed it's a t top car but it's missing the under hood bracing. I wonder if they are why it was cut up. Does it have the torque boxes? In front wheel well, back of the tire where firewall would meet the floor pan there should be an L shaped plate bolted to the front and welded underneath to the frame rail. I can get a pic tomorrow of mine.
Here is a pic of the under hood parts. Excuse my mess as I am taking things apart again. It's missing the passenger side bar but the brackets are there. My battery is relocated so you will have to account that if yours it still there. The passenger side factory bar is more s shaped.
Make sure you do this. Also add frame ties and check for/add torque boxes if you plan on keeping her. I broke my II from high school at the A pillars. The metal cracked above the windshield. Then she rusted out down the a pillar into the door hinge area. It launched sideways towards the end from me twisting the chassis. That car may have had 200hp if that but I was young and pushed it hard. Its cheap things to add and will help keep her straight for the next generation to enjoy.
Here is a pic of the under hood parts. Excuse my mess as I am taking things apart again. It's missing the passenger side bar but the brackets are there. My battery is relocated so you will have to account that if yours it still there. The passenger side factory bar is more s shaped.
Make sure you do this. Also add frame ties and check for/add torque boxes if you plan on keeping her. I broke my II from high school at the A pillars. The metal cracked above the windshield. Then she rusted out down the a pillar into the door hinge area. It launched sideways towards the end from me twisting the chassis. That car may have had 200hp if that but I was young and pushed it hard. Its cheap things to add and will help keep her straight for the next generation to enjoy.
Sorry the pics are big. Should I hit the thumbnail option when posting?
Here is another shot showing the wider view. These were on all t top cars from the factory. Up top they are just 1" tubing 1/8' thick. Bent with the ends smashed. They bolt directly to the firewall pinchweld. There is a plate backing up the bracket on the fender.
Here is another shot showing the wider view. These were on all t top cars from the factory. Up top they are just 1" tubing 1/8' thick. Bent with the ends smashed. They bolt directly to the firewall pinchweld. There is a plate backing up the bracket on the fender.
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The black box like part is what I call the torque box. It bolts top and bottom then welded along the frame rail. The passenger side weld on mine was broken when I got it. It had the v6 then with parking decals from a local retirement community. It only has 40,000 miles. I found a moderatly bent tie rod end but no other signs of body work. Either they did a horrible job welding or there is a lot of stress there from chassis flex.
Coupled with my experience from my first II I ordered frame ties for this one. She will not be driven hard untill they are also installed and the broken weld addressed. I probably sound like an idiot harping on this but please tighten that chassis up before you repeat my mistakes. It's cheap insurance.
Coupled with my experience from my first II I ordered frame ties for this one. She will not be driven hard untill they are also installed and the broken weld addressed. I probably sound like an idiot harping on this but please tighten that chassis up before you repeat my mistakes. It's cheap insurance.
Thanks for the documentation of the torque boxes. I wasn't sure if there where any in production... Can you also measure the thickness of the sheet metal?!
Do you mean with frame ties subframe connectors?
Do you mean with frame ties subframe connectors?
I will have to look on my car now for those. I don't remember seeing any "bolted on" crossmembers (torque boxes)...unless they were only on t- top cars.
Are we talking stumpys sub frame connectors?
Are torque boxes even available?
No big pics are fine.
Yeah my car (non- t-top) does not have those torque boxes. Guess i will need to find some or make some, because I like the idea considering the torque of the engine i am using.
They only came on the t top cars. They are 1/8" thick. My original II was NOT a t top car and did not have them. I wish I had the internet back then. I stripped then crushed it back in '98 or so. Still feel guilty to this day. By the time I realized how bad it was the a pillar top to the door hinges had rotted out inside from the water running into the cracks. I had bondoed them a couple times by then but it kept cracking. I was following a friend who was driving it one day and it crab walked away from stop lights. The old guys will remember the old Chevy Nova's that did that.
I was talking of the stumpy subframe connectors. I ordered a set last week for the II I'm working on now. If you don't have a rear sway bar get his traction bars as well. They don't cost much and they have the provision to add the rear sway bar. I asked him late last week about making a monte carlo type bar for those who don't have a t top car. I don't know if he has time for that but figured it wouldnt hurt to ask. Maybe others asking him will show he has a market for them and torque boxes. I can get more measurements if needed. Just let me know.
I was talking of the stumpy subframe connectors. I ordered a set last week for the II I'm working on now. If you don't have a rear sway bar get his traction bars as well. They don't cost much and they have the provision to add the rear sway bar. I asked him late last week about making a monte carlo type bar for those who don't have a t top car. I don't know if he has time for that but figured it wouldnt hurt to ask. Maybe others asking him will show he has a market for them and torque boxes. I can get more measurements if needed. Just let me know.
Thanks for the info. Yes I have the subframe connectors too. The went in pretty easy with a bit of subframe mods.
I will likely have to build the torque boxes as I will need to accommodate a spot for my header collectors.. as there is no room for my exhaust to exit beside the trans or engine. I'm thinking 4 inch 1/8 wall tube for a passthrough notch. Maybe there is an easier way, I will have to do some noodling on that.
I will likely have to build the torque boxes as I will need to accommodate a spot for my header collectors.. as there is no room for my exhaust to exit beside the trans or engine. I'm thinking 4 inch 1/8 wall tube for a passthrough notch. Maybe there is an easier way, I will have to do some noodling on that.
Long time since I updated this thread. I put the new single 4 barrel edelbrock intake in my car to replace the dual quads. They were just to much for a street car and ran way to rich. When I got the car running I had a major coolant leak. It turns out my heads had been milled alot and I didn’t check them when I put the new intake on. When I put the intake on it bottomed out on the block and pulled the heads up. I pulled the heads and this is were it gets crazy. They were 1963.5 Shelby Hipo heads. The guy who had the car before me built the 289 that was in it and must have got these heads. He passed away before I bought the car so I did not know what was in the motor. After finding out what they were worth I sold them. I am not going to say what I sold them for but it was enough for me to buy AFR 165cc non emission heads. Because there was now coolant all throughout the rest of the motor I decided to rebuild it. When pulling it I had a real hard time getting the bell housing bolts out. It is because my car had another surprise. It had a C6 transmission. I had a solid lifter 1963 hipo cam in it and also a 1963 crack and rods with some old forged pistons that were .30 over. The block had one cylinder with pretty bad pitting and it would have needed to be bored out another 10. When my engine builder checked my other cylinders not one was the same size. I was going to fix it until my dad told me he had a short block 302 him and my mom bought in the 90’s that had come from a closing machine shop. I took it down to the engine builder and the machine work was much better. It has cast pistons but they are a brand my engine builder likes ( I don’t remember now)
I have not started to assemble the motor yet but will update when I do
The engine builder has said the motor we are building will be over 400 horsepower. With that and the c6 and the 9 inch I think I will be all set
It will be a hydraulic roller motor as well
To stiffen the chasis Ill be getting a DOM steel roll bar with door bars and rear bars that connect to the frame not the wheel wells
Also subframe connects and I will make some export braces for the engine compartment
So what seemed like bad luck before turned out to be nothing but good luck. With all the rare 60’s stuff the car had on it I can now afford to put together a more powerful motor. I just turned 18 and finally got my license. When the car is done it will be more than I ever dreamed of. I’ve had it for 8 years now. I hope I can get it on the road for next summer
I have not started to assemble the motor yet but will update when I do
The engine builder has said the motor we are building will be over 400 horsepower. With that and the c6 and the 9 inch I think I will be all set
It will be a hydraulic roller motor as well
To stiffen the chasis Ill be getting a DOM steel roll bar with door bars and rear bars that connect to the frame not the wheel wells
Also subframe connects and I will make some export braces for the engine compartment
So what seemed like bad luck before turned out to be nothing but good luck. With all the rare 60’s stuff the car had on it I can now afford to put together a more powerful motor. I just turned 18 and finally got my license. When the car is done it will be more than I ever dreamed of. I’ve had it for 8 years now. I hope I can get it on the road for next summer
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That is exactly what would I have done in your situation! This will be a nice engine combo.
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