Gotta say-I did not expect this update lol
Crazy, lol. Just caught up on the trip, and then the engine is out. You are Mad Mike, no way around that. Glad the trip went so well, and you finally realized how cool the Monster is.
I doesn't surprise me.
Could the 60+lbs of oil pressure be contributing to the vapor problem?
OH sweet i get to play with your computer again..... this time i will wear pants whilst tuning your car...
And a box on your head too?
only if i can cut holes in it.....otherwise its hard to see the computer screen.....
I can't see oil pressure being a problem.... oil flow... maybe. It would only affect the engine vapor if it's accumulating too much under the valve covers.... meaning the drain back holes aren't big enough.
I wasn't expecting this either.... but it's in my plans with mine. As soon as it's running good it's all coming apart.... well... engine and transmission are coming out.
Edit...stupid phone
You could make two holes in firewall and make them to fit floor pan drain plugs. That would look pretty clean and most would have no idea they were added.
Called it @ 5:15 yesterday! L Freaking O L.
What are your ring gaps? Blow by is caused by only 3 main things I can think of. Rings are NOT sealing to the cylinder wall. Ring gap is too big. A piston has a fat hole in it. I know there are others...ring gaps lined up. Broken ring land, rocking piston, BigFoot.
There's always the 40's and 50's way of doing it. Road draft tube. It continually undercoats your car too, so it won't rust. BONUS!
I'll do this as a blanket acknowledgement to all of your comments, and as a " look what I found out" revelation in one fell swoop tonight.
Going backwards.....
Drew.....are you asking me what my ring end gaps are? Let me assure you....they are too tight for a turbocharged application.
( like .020)
I'm getting blow by because I'll almost wager that I've got too much skirt clearance. I think my 2618 alloy pistons are rocking around a lot in the bores. That in turn would mean that either I have a machining issue again, or the skirts were damaged ( collapsed) as a result of the taper that they had in the bores after the initial install.
I'm not taking the noisy bitch apart again, but if I did, ( knowing what I know now) I'd never use either the machine shop that I used, and I'd never use a 2618 alloy again. They have to allow for a lot of expansion with that alloy, and that equates to a noisy, rocking piston. I don't know that I need a piston this serious for this engine.
I also never use a "draft tube" the car is filthy underneath from the transmission as it is,..I'm not gonna add puked out oil to that mix.
So what did you call?
I've decided against cutting up the firewall...I'm probably gonna drop the kmember.
One of the guys I talked to at the show thought that I was throwing too much oil at the cylinder walls as a result of excessive pressure, and that the rings were being overwhelmed as a result..I don't know if that has any merit, but since I plan to reduce the pressure anyway...I guess we'll see.
The oil can't stay in the valve cover...there are enormous holes in the pushrod galley.
As for those that didn't expect to see an empty engine bay...I wrestled mightily against it. At the end of the day, I needed to deal with the leaking transmission,...and one of those leaks is coming from the front pump seal.
My transmission source said that worn bushings are responsible for the tail shaft leak. The driveshaft yoke " wobbles" a little when the clearance is excessive, and causes a gap to form in the sealing surface as a result. That bushing is out and if I can sneak away from work ( which I'll be able to do) I'll get that stuff tomorrow .
I am also wrestling with removing the ITBs and putting the old intake back on again. while they're cool and all, the complexity of not having a common intake plenum almost isn't worth the cool points. I still have the 70 mm TB,..id just need to change out the throttle cable back to whatever I had before ( can't remember )
I know if I keep the ITBs, the glass top is gonna have to go. Right now, Everytime I get into boost, the water meth just coats the underside of the glass..add the condensation moisture that forms after a heat cycle, and it doesn't take long for that glass to get pretty cruddy looking. Add to it that i'm considering almost doubling the boost pressure, and that'll put even more pressure against the glass, and the retention system. The thinking here is: if I'm covering up the ITBs with a solid plate on the box,...what's the point of having the hassle?
And lastly...why is the link to this thread highlighted and blue?