It’s the exact same length that it was before. Excepting the fact that the old driveshaft had the ford yoke with the failure prone harmonic balancer on the front, it now has the mega-chunky T400/4l80e 32 spline slip yoke and a greaseless u joint installed up front.
Aircraft have all sorts of inspection plates on them and they either use screws or quick release fasteners. I would recommend that you seriously consider doing something in a similar manner. Using rivnuts and screws would be my choice; easy to use and inexpensive. Space the rivnuts 1"-3" apart depending on how tight a seal and what sort of structural strength you desire to achieve. Whatever spacing you choose, make it uniform. A machinist divider or a kid's drawing compass is small and handy enough to make this a simple task.
I have a rivnut installer tool similar to the above. It's awesome. SOOO Awesome, I have over used it. I have rivnuts on all kinds of stuff. Bought the kit on Amazon and an assortment of SS button head hex bolts. For a street car, I would go with bolts, either rivnuts or weld nuts to the back side, rather than something like Dzus fasterner. I would also figure some way to apply weather stripping to keep the carpet from getting wet if you get caught in the rain and keep out the fumes.
Its almost like devine intervention. Some greater force keeps throwing obstacles in the path of completing this car.
This is like a really sadistic dark comedy. But nothing is remotely funny.
The pic of the driveshaft in place is only of it just sorta sitting on the pinion shaft nut. When you try to turn the driveshaft to bolt it up, it don’t turn.
It literally takes a pipe wrench to be able to get the thing to spin.
I called transgo this afternoon..Dude says that I probably have one clutch that didn’t index properly, and that is causing the force fit, which in turn is making the entire assembly impossible to turn. Where in the transmission that is happening will require a complete tear down to about the middle of the trans. And in order to be able to do that means that i have to remove that heavy pig. Then put it back on the stand, then flip it over, then remove the pan, the front pump, the valve body and the front pump. and then start lifting out clutch drums until I find the one that’ll have one friction disc that will be all bent to hell as a result of being smashed by the front pump.
The ONLY ray of light to this whole dismal fcking affair, is that the tunnel is still off, the trans is empty, and nothing else has been installed back. I should be able to remove the thing in 30 minutes or so.