I bought a JDM complete 2 jz expecting a turn key engine, only needing maybe a new water pump, a new timing belt, a new oil pump, an oil pan fab, and doing whatever was required to adapt my existing 4R70 to the engine.
All of that changed the day the engine arrived.
Building an oil pan was an easy enough modification for me, and in the grand scheme only cost me materials..so, let’s say 50 bucks.
But,...the oil pump...cost 250.00.
Getting the timing belt off was also easy enough, but getting the gears off required a serious impact, and the intake cam spun multiple times by accident...I was concerned that I had jammed the valves, and a leak down test confirmed significant cylinder leakage, so I took the head to a shop to have the valves checked and reground........250 bucks.
While the head was off, I figured I’d upgrade the head gasket...150.00
I figured I’d upgrade the fasteners..150.00
At that time I noticed significant pitting in the deck surface of the block. One guy told me that that was common on these engines, and not to worry about it.
I purchased a new intake, 550.00, a new exhaust, 450.00; New LQ9 coils, new plug wires, and new coil connectors..220.00
I just purchased a bracket so that I could mount those coils...125.00
After doing some reading, I learn that the engine will need significantly bigger injectors and a fuel system to go with it.
So I buy new 1000 cc Bosch injectors, and a new Aeromotive 340 LPH pump and a dash line to feed it..600.00; the new turbo manifold has a 50mm wastegate flange, so I buy a new 50 mm wastegate for 200.00
.
The intake interfered with the old Cobra brake booster, so I converted the thing over to manual...Although there was a firewall adapter available to allow me to mount it, it positioned the thing in the stock location, and now that I had modified the brake pedal for the manual brakes...the stock location was way too low.
So I built a mount block, and cover to locate the master cylinder properly. 75.00 ( including the piece that I bought that was wrong that I ended up using as a jig to hold the one I was building in the right place)
I decided to add back the A2W intercooler that I used to have, only I had sold all of that stuff when I decided to convert the old engine over to slow-assed N/A. Now, I had to buy it all back. It’s now temporarily hanging in place...new I/C = 150; New water reservoir 70 bucks...
I spends hours trying to adapt the transmission over to the engine. I also manage to throw away 200 trying to do that. I end up having to send the converter away to have it modified to fit. It cost 300.00
It still don’t fit. I have to add 3/16-1/4” spacers to the converter feet so that the converter won’t jam against the flexplate bolts...which it’s doing now.
And that brings me back around to the block...I looked more closely at the pitting, and called Cometic for advice. Dude says if I plan to lay into the engine with boost, I need to have a smooth deck to guarantee a good gasket seal...
I have to disassemble a running engine so that I can have the block decked, and have the thing honed so I can put fresh rings on it...
Anybody adding all this sht up?
All of that changed the day the engine arrived.
Building an oil pan was an easy enough modification for me, and in the grand scheme only cost me materials..so, let’s say 50 bucks.
But,...the oil pump...cost 250.00.
Getting the timing belt off was also easy enough, but getting the gears off required a serious impact, and the intake cam spun multiple times by accident...I was concerned that I had jammed the valves, and a leak down test confirmed significant cylinder leakage, so I took the head to a shop to have the valves checked and reground........250 bucks.
While the head was off, I figured I’d upgrade the head gasket...150.00
I figured I’d upgrade the fasteners..150.00
At that time I noticed significant pitting in the deck surface of the block. One guy told me that that was common on these engines, and not to worry about it.
I purchased a new intake, 550.00, a new exhaust, 450.00; New LQ9 coils, new plug wires, and new coil connectors..220.00
I just purchased a bracket so that I could mount those coils...125.00
After doing some reading, I learn that the engine will need significantly bigger injectors and a fuel system to go with it.
So I buy new 1000 cc Bosch injectors, and a new Aeromotive 340 LPH pump and a dash line to feed it..600.00; the new turbo manifold has a 50mm wastegate flange, so I buy a new 50 mm wastegate for 200.00
.
The intake interfered with the old Cobra brake booster, so I converted the thing over to manual...Although there was a firewall adapter available to allow me to mount it, it positioned the thing in the stock location, and now that I had modified the brake pedal for the manual brakes...the stock location was way too low.
So I built a mount block, and cover to locate the master cylinder properly. 75.00 ( including the piece that I bought that was wrong that I ended up using as a jig to hold the one I was building in the right place)
I decided to add back the A2W intercooler that I used to have, only I had sold all of that stuff when I decided to convert the old engine over to slow-assed N/A. Now, I had to buy it all back. It’s now temporarily hanging in place...new I/C = 150; New water reservoir 70 bucks...
I spends hours trying to adapt the transmission over to the engine. I also manage to throw away 200 trying to do that. I end up having to send the converter away to have it modified to fit. It cost 300.00
It still don’t fit. I have to add 3/16-1/4” spacers to the converter feet so that the converter won’t jam against the flexplate bolts...which it’s doing now.
And that brings me back around to the block...I looked more closely at the pitting, and called Cometic for advice. Dude says if I plan to lay into the engine with boost, I need to have a smooth deck to guarantee a good gasket seal...
I have to disassemble a running engine so that I can have the block decked, and have the thing honed so I can put fresh rings on it...
Anybody adding all this sht up?