Progress Thread 1978 Mustang II Rallye Overhaul (302, C4, T-Tops)
- Thread starter balaseca29
- Start date
Me too! It may get a rear spoiler, and tucked bumpers. I'm still feeling out this side of the Mustang scene, but I don't think it's gonna stay white. With the tan and white interior, I think it may wind up a Hunter Green with white racing stripes.
Not hating on the coupe, just not a fan of the look of them. Definitely heard about keeping it as an all around parts car thoughI dunno if I'd say "sadly" about the coupe....
The first 2 I owned were a Ghia and a coupe. I had plans for the coupe but my first wife wrapped it around a tree a week after we were married. Yeah - we didn't last long.But here are a couple of my favorites.
I wouldn't mind having another, but it's not in the cards for a long while if I ever get one....
I'd suggest just picking the coupe up too if you've got the space to store it. You never know if there's something on that car that you may want to snag for the other. One thing I can think of would be the tach adapter if you're looking to keep the stock gauges.
Yeah, they're getting harder to find. So many were cut up for their front ends and crushed. So the suggestions of grabbing it and holding onto it are valid from that standpoint - a lot of these parts are getting harder to find in decent shape.
So, got the white one to the house yesterday. Motor is free, plugs were blacker than midnight inside a cow, and the carb looks like it came off something on the titanic. I have an amazon 2100 that might be a better idea to get her at least firing til I do a rebuild on the 2150. Currently about to dive into the abyss that is wiring on this thing. Wish me luck.
Current state of affairs is that I get absolutely nothing when I try and jump the solenoid, so I'm hoping its just a bad connection on the starter. I've verified 13V on both sides of the solenoid when it's jumped and that the battery to block ground is good.
Pics to follow today.
Current state of affairs is that I get absolutely nothing when I try and jump the solenoid, so I'm hoping its just a bad connection on the starter. I've verified 13V on both sides of the solenoid when it's jumped and that the battery to block ground is good.
Pics to follow today.
If it gets down to pulling the starter:
Lots of info for other things as well in the tech sticky.
Here's a quick how-to on changing an oil pan gasket on a 302 without removing the engine. It's the same steps as changing a starter more or less, so it's basically 2 birds with 1 stone.
First, raise the car to an appropriate height and support it. Remove the (-) battery cable from the battery.
Pull the mounting bolts from the rack and pinion. You're not going to remove it, just manipulate it so it's out of your way. In my case, I lifted the right front tire from the pedestal it was on so that side would turn freely.
Remove the cable from the starter.
If your car still...
First, raise the car to an appropriate height and support it. Remove the (-) battery cable from the battery.
Pull the mounting bolts from the rack and pinion. You're not going to remove it, just manipulate it so it's out of your way. In my case, I lifted the right front tire from the pedestal it was on so that side would turn freely.
Remove the cable from the starter.
If your car still...
Lots of info for other things as well in the tech sticky.
Good news! New grounding location on the block, and not only does the starter work, but so does the solenoid. Motor is free and spins nicely. However, I have ZERO power inside the car, which is gonna be a LOT of fun to diagnose...
Absolute facts @2Blue2! I'm thinking I've got a blown fuseable link somewhere. The question is do I replace the link or put an inline fuse? I'm leaning towards a more modern fuse. Also thinking about eventually replacing the old school fuse box with one that uses the blade fuses at some point. I'm headed to FL to see family, but will be back friday. Then I'll jump in with ye old Multi-meter and a fist full of inline fuse holders of the appropriate size.
Given the location of the fuse box, it sounds like it would end up being an almost complete rewire to swap out to a blade style fuse box. I mean if you're going to go so far as to do that I'd suggest installing it underhood instead of under the dash to simplify changing fuses if the need arises. The stock location is less than desirable - to put it lightly....
And I agree with the fusible link thought. I'd definitely consider using an inline fuse instead. Or you could use an automotive breaker.
And I agree with the fusible link thought. I'd definitely consider using an inline fuse instead. Or you could use an automotive breaker.
Getting close to this my self as the wiring is crispy in places.
Been thinking of swapping heater ac controls for one with cables to do away with vacuum actuated stuff, fine in its day but all leaky now too.
Hawaii is hard on cars...
I just want it to work reliably.
The thought had crossed my mind to just rewire. Definitely going to swap those fuseable links with inline fuse holders just to get her running though.
I apologize for no pics, I went to FL to see family and will be back home tomorrow. Also going on Saturday to pick up the 76 Cobra II.
I apologize for no pics, I went to FL to see family and will be back home tomorrow. Also going on Saturday to pick up the 76 Cobra II.
Carb removed for rebuild.
Starter died, so when the weather clears, I'll be dropping the rack and pulling that. Wooo!
Time for a progress update.
So, BLUF, the 78 now runs!! The 76 Cobra is on pause and I will be making a separate post about it, as it will be a HUGE project.
So, the original starter did wind up being on its last legs and died. I swapped it out, replaced the ground cable, and she runs! So now I have to fix the fuel system, dial in the carb and timing. Then its on to brakes!
The instrument cluster is a fun story. Apparently, the entire shell that holds the gauges is dry rotted to the point that its more fragile than a 90's corvette owner's ego. Also, the circuit "board" is rough, so I'll be ordering new ones of both. More to follow on that.
The main focus for now is getting the motor running well on its own fuel system and getting the brakes repaired and functional.
So, BLUF, the 78 now runs!! The 76 Cobra is on pause and I will be making a separate post about it, as it will be a HUGE project.
So, the original starter did wind up being on its last legs and died. I swapped it out, replaced the ground cable, and she runs! So now I have to fix the fuel system, dial in the carb and timing. Then its on to brakes!
The instrument cluster is a fun story. Apparently, the entire shell that holds the gauges is dry rotted to the point that its more fragile than a 90's corvette owner's ego. Also, the circuit "board" is rough, so I'll be ordering new ones of both. More to follow on that.
The main focus for now is getting the motor running well on its own fuel system and getting the brakes repaired and functional.
UPDATE!
So, the master cylinder is good, thankfully. Seems that its just my rubber lines that are absolutely done for. They were plugged solid. As for the fuel system, it seems that someone before me put an electric pump right by the driver's rocker panel. I'm gonna remove that and get a new mechanical from O'Reilly's and see if I can't get all of that to work well.
The wiring on the car is just old but its not in bad shape. There are a few things that I have to replace, like the wiper motor and dome light, but otherwise she's coming along. On that note, how bad is it to get to and repair or replace the brake light switch?
Door panels, arm rests, and outer window "trim" will be getting replaced this week. My goal is to be able to drive her from Augusta, GA to Gainesville, FL by President's Day. Wish me luck!
So, the master cylinder is good, thankfully. Seems that its just my rubber lines that are absolutely done for. They were plugged solid. As for the fuel system, it seems that someone before me put an electric pump right by the driver's rocker panel. I'm gonna remove that and get a new mechanical from O'Reilly's and see if I can't get all of that to work well.
The wiring on the car is just old but its not in bad shape. There are a few things that I have to replace, like the wiper motor and dome light, but otherwise she's coming along. On that note, how bad is it to get to and repair or replace the brake light switch?
Door panels, arm rests, and outer window "trim" will be getting replaced this week. My goal is to be able to drive her from Augusta, GA to Gainesville, FL by President's Day. Wish me luck!
The brake light switch is easy - the wiper motor otoh.... 
What's happening in Gainesville on President's Day? Something we should know about.
What's happening in Gainesville on President's Day? Something we should know about.
Lol, nothing is happening there, just my next long weekend to make the 6 hr trip. That's home for me.
Honestly, the wiper motor doesn't look as bad as the brake light switch. Its cramped up there, but that's what an electric ratchet and wobble sockets are for, lol. I also need to look into the switch for the wipers. It's a lot of little ankle biter things. Big stuff seems to be fairly simple to fix or not need fixing.
On a side note, I wonder how hard it would be to fab up frame mounts for a 302 (or maybe a 351W?
) for the 76 Cobra? I need to post a lot more pics to get opinions of people that are a lot more familiar with the ins and outs of all this Mustang II stuff.
Another side note, does it irritate anyone else when people blow off the II? I'm not sure I dont like these better than the 70-73, especially when it comes to actually driving around.
Honestly, the wiper motor doesn't look as bad as the brake light switch. Its cramped up there, but that's what an electric ratchet and wobble sockets are for, lol. I also need to look into the switch for the wipers. It's a lot of little ankle biter things. Big stuff seems to be fairly simple to fix or not need fixing.
On a side note, I wonder how hard it would be to fab up frame mounts for a 302 (or maybe a 351W?
) for the 76 Cobra? I need to post a lot more pics to get opinions of people that are a lot more familiar with the ins and outs of all this Mustang II stuff.Another side note, does it irritate anyone else when people blow off the II? I'm not sure I dont like these better than the 70-73, especially when it comes to actually driving around.
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