I was wondering what is involved in making a 1979 302 into a 86 or later roller motor because I want to use the E 303 cam but can't on the reg 79 motor.
Thanks in advance
Jhery
Thanks in advance
Jhery
1979 302 roller conversion
- Thread starter monsterstang70
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Michael Yount
Mustang Master
As others have said - it's difficult IF you want to use the factory style spyder/dog bones to limit lifter rotation. However, you don't have to do anything at all to an old block to make it suitable for a roller cam if you simply buy the linked style roller lifters for your particular application. Pushrod length will change - and the linked style roller lifters aren't cheap.
Michael Yount said:
So yur saying all i need is the roller cam, linked lifters and different pushrods to do this?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I think I agree with Js5oh with one exception. If you buy a used HO short block - you need to be sure you know what you're getting in terms of the shape it's in. If your short block is sound, adding linked lifters to it will be less expensive than having to rebuild (bearings/rings/etc.) your 'used' HO block.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I would contact some of the cam companies and see what they have. You'll probably have to reconsider your valve springs as well as the lobe profiles/ramp rates on the roller are more aggressive than on a flat tappet cam. I think both Crane (www.cranecams.com) and Comp Cams (www.compcams.com) both carry linked lifters. I'd talk to their tech folks about possibilities for putting a roller in the non-roller block.
There really isnt that much to making a standard 302 block a roller cam motor. The hardest thing is drilling and tapping the 2 holes in the center of the block for the spyder. The cheapest thing to do is buy a blown 5.0 motor and use the components you need to make your conversion. (spyder, lifter bars, lifters, cam and gear for the distributor). This is taking in to consideration that the block you want to use is in good shape. As far as a 5.0 HO block making more power, that's BS. The block doesnt make any more power than any other block, its the strength of the block that matters. People upgrade blocks over stock because there making lots of power (over 500hp usually)The heads from a 5.0 are a little better but not by alot. Stock 5.0 heads are also dirt cheap mostly becuase they are scrap iron. If you dont have alot of money you can buy them for $200 a set all day long. Just buy valve springs to match the cam you decide on.
There really isnt that much to making a standard 302 block a roller cam motor. The hardest thing is drilling and tapping the 2 holes in the center of the block for the spyder. The cheapest thing to do is buy a blown 5.0 motor and use the components you need to make your conversion. (spyder, lifter bars, lifters, pushrods, cam and gear for the distributor). All of these parts are cheap even new. This is taking in to consideration that the block you want to use is in good shape. As far as a 5.0 HO block making more power, that's BS. The block doesnt make any more power than any other block, its the strength of the block that matters. People upgrade blocks over stock because there making lots of power (over 500hp usually)The heads from a 5.0 are a little better but not by alot. Stock 5.0 heads are also dirt cheap mostly becuase they are scrap iron. If you dont have alot of money you can buy them for $200 a set all day long. Just buy valve springs to match the cam you decide on.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
cab - others that seem to know indicate that the lifter bores on the old blocks are the wrong height. They don't allow the dogbones/lifters to work together properly. It's not just drilling/tapping the holes for the spyder. The lifter bores have to be machined larger, and then bronze sleeves of the correct height have to be pressed in - it's much more complex. That's why using the linked lifters on the old blocks seems to be the best way to go.
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