Progress Thread 1985 Gt I Finally Have A T Top Car.

I went with the H&R race springs

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Actually, IIRC, 1985 Town Car MC is a direct bolt on application, and is a 1" bore application. I think you just need a 3/8-24 inverted flare to 7/16-24 inverted adapter on the front port.

Of course, that's if you don't want the modern style plastic reseviour MC.

1993 Cobra MCs are ~$100, while town car plus that adapter might be $25ish?

I swear I remember seeing an extensive list somewhere and there is actually a V6 hydroboost MC that mimics the Town Car and 93 Cobra dimensions (but maybe metric instead of inch). I even went so far as to grab one out of the junk yard a few years ago with the intention of swapping my Town Car MC, but never did it and now I can't remember what year the car was that I got it from. Is that list still around somewhere?
 
I went with the H&R race springs

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Wow,...Are those Bilstein, or yellow Koni's?,....and I'd be curious what your objective is w/ regard to such a obvious upgrade to the suspension...
(I'd also be curious to see how it affects the ride quality as a driver)

I've been considering upgrading the suspension in the Monster to make it more potentially track-able, but don't want it to bounce me over every little bump in the road, so the thought process ends as soon as it get's started. I've had a Griggs front mount for a torque arm conversion new in a box for years,...and can easily change springs and struts to accommodate a more serious suspension choice,....but...where would you go to get any benefit out of it?

I too bought my entire Cobra brake change over from RA....it was painless,..no scrounging through yards to scour up all the little bolts, pins and clips that the brake calipers need that hold the pads on.
 
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They are Bilsteins. I have had other combos of springs and struts but in my experience the HR race spring and Bilstein combo is the conventional spring/struct winner. It firms it up but was never too harsh. This car is 100% street car with no real goals. I just want it to look good and stop/handle better than stock. Currently it is on stock worn out OEM suspension and (IMHO) nearly unsafe stock 4 eye brakes. I have the MM torque arm on the turbo car and it helped out a lot with traction and what I can best express as feeling "planted" in curves while under power.

I love all the MM parts but in reality I use them to maybe 5% of potential so I am trying to spend wiser on this T top car. I want this car to be a real world driver that does what it needs to better than most.
 
I noticed you got the race springs instead of the sport or super sport ones. You say you've used these before. I'm guessing the ride isn't all that harsh?

I'm slowly buying stuff for my blue car and am at a cross roads of what I wish to do with the suspension.

I will be changing over to an 8.8 with mine as well, so seeing your results will be very interesting to me.

I'm a t-top whore, so i'll be reading everything you post.
 
That picture is just a sample if you search the PN it is complete ( well i believe it to be )

I guess I will find out in a couple days!

I like free, damnit! wish I would have known, oh well.


As for the springs, the say they are only slightly firmer than mach 1 springs and actually lower the car less than other versions of springs they carry.
 
Parts are beginning to arrive. Man its been a while since I have been excited about parts!

This is the Rock Auto brake kit and some Amazon hoses, For the Price I am impressed with the brake kit.

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So paint, black for the brackets and Alumn for the calipers?

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So if one were to buy such a brake kit, what all is needed from a donor for the 5 lug swap? Is it just axels and spindles?
 
Hopefully soon but I am still missing a key part, the 8.8 housing and I need to get the subframes welded in before any of this and I have zero welding experience.


That is exactly how much you need in order to weld in sub-frame connectors. :D


...and maybe a trip to youtube if you can find one that doesn't show them being welded in on a frame lift. :notnice:


Weight on Wheels when they get welded