1988 GT relay/circuit problem

Matt88

New Member
Jun 8, 2011
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The mirrors,map light,and door locks do not work. However most bizzare: the running lights and fog lights intermittently flash on and off when the fog lights are in the on position. Are the interior problems linked to the exterior? It is not a fuse could i have a bad relay some where, if so, i hate to say it but i have no idea were or how to diagnose. The only tip i have received is that you can by pass this "RELAY" and it will solve everything. I am a bit skeptical, I have come to this site to gain knowledge and Mustang expert advise. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. O yeah forgot to mention my GT is bone stock. if that helps at all.
-Matt88
 
Welcome to the boards. :nice:

There are no stock relays for the headlights of fogs.

The headlight switch and its wiring can overheat due to the load of the fog lights, so adding a relay to the fogs is a good idea. There are myriad write-ups for doing so on the internet.

What happens if you don't use the fog lights? Do all the lights function properly? If so, you might be able to get by with the relay retrofit alone. If the other lights still act wonky, I would do continuity testing at the headlight switch itself. The contacts where the switch parks might be damaged or dirty.

In case it's needed, here's a fusebox diagram:

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Good luck.
 
Thanks, from a new guy

The exterior lighting problem occurrs only when the fog lights have been on for awhile.
I will take your recomendations and apply them. Great diagram.
Thanks from a new guy
-Matt88
 
Yeah the headlight/fog flashing when hot issue was a problem from day one starting in '87 when these aero cars came out. I bought my '88 vert new and it went back and forth to the dealer concerning this issue. They never could resolve it so I bought a switch and relay, cut the plugs at the fogs and ran my new switch separately and mounted it on the lower dash.
Been that way for more than twenty years now. I sometimes like running the fogs and running lights without the headlights. Can't do that with the stock settup.

Good Luck
 
Thank u for the feed back. I am going to run a very similar set up based on the great info/instruction you have provided. Thanks again!
-Matt88
 
Be careful not to use bulbs rated at more than 55 watt each. Using oversize bulbs can result in overheating the wiring harness and electrical fires. Definitely do the fog light fix.

SEE Mustang GT Fog Light Fix to fix the problem. The stock wiring isn't up to the job and is overheating. The headlight switch & turn/multifunction switch are affected by Ford's wiring problem. Sometimes it overheats so badly that the plastic shells of the wiring connectors start to melt. This will show you how to add a relay to the fog lights to relieve the overload on the headlight wiring.

I did mine differently, but I had to build my own wiring harness for the fog lights. This is more trouble than it is worth for most folks. I left all the wiring on the stock light switches in place and used the fog light wiring to power the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is connected to ground. I have an inline fuse that picks up power from the battery side of the starter solenoid. It is connected to the relay contact. The other relay contact is connected to the new wiring harness I made for the fog lights.

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The advantage of making your own fog light wiring harness is that you can run 100 watt fog light bulbs. The stock wiring harness will not use 100 watt bulbs without overloading and causing a fire.

Unless you are good at electrical wiring, have the skills and tools (crimp tool, soldering gun, heat gun for the heat shrink tubing, etc.) I recommend that you stick with the Corral method.

Technical explanation of why the wiring and switches overheat.
You asked for it...

I= Current
E= Voltage
R= Resistance
W= Watts

Two 55 watt fog lamps =110 watts. Find the current in the circuit
I= W/E
110 watts/14 volts = 7.85 amps for fog lights alone.
Since the lighting circuit supplies headlights, taillights, and parking lights, etc.

56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3156 corner light 28 watts each
90 watts 2 each GE Part # 9004 headlight 45/65 watts each (low beam)
63 watts 2 each GE Part # L194 parking light 31.5 watts each
56 watts 2 each GE Part # L3157 tail light 28 watts each
265 watts Total

Total other exterior lighting current
I=W/E
265 watts/14 volts = 18.92 amps
18.92 amps other exterior lighting current
+ 7.85 amps fog light current
26.77 amps with all exterior lights and fog lights on.

The 12 gauge power feed wire to the exterior lighting switch is rated at 20 amps
26.77
- 20.00
6.77 amps excess current

7.85 amps used by fog lights
-6.77 amps excess current
1.08 amps to run the fog lights left if you stay within the 20 amp limit of the wire.
With 1.08 amp of current, the fog lights probably won’t produce any useable light.

Added resistance required to reduce fog light current to permissible 20 amp limit
R=E/I
14 volts/6.77 amps = 2.06 ohms
Resistor wattage
W=EI
14 volts x 6.77 amps = 94.78 watts
You would need a 2 ohm, 100 watt resistor.

Light bulb ratings from http://www.roadparts.com/catalog/section30.pdf
Radio shack resistor catalog - no matches , and no combinations that could be used to make a 100 watt, 2 Ohm resistor.
See RadioShack.com

Ohm’s law – in case you have any questions about my formulas - Ohm's Law Calculators
 
AMAZING! Being new to Stangnet i am blown away by all the help i have been recieving. Your electrical knowledge seems superb, any thoughts on my interior light issues, map light,door locks,mirrors,cruise controll, and hatch switch all do not function. Do you know if these are all interconnected, seperate isuess, or have any diagnoses. If you have instruction on this topic please let me know,thanks.
-Matt88