1991 331 stroker trick flow, will not run good

get a custom chip burned immediately. have it towed to a dyno shop.

running too lean will wash out the rings, and glaze the cylinder walls. running too lean will cause detonation and kaboom.

the problem is not the cam. the x cam is a stronger cam than a TFS stage 2.

the problem u have is in the tune.

Another vote for a dyno tune.

Dump the codes and fix any codes that pop up before spending money on a custom tune. There is no point in band aiding problems caused by faulty sensors and wiring.

Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

OK. but dumping the codes does not fix them. he needs someone to read the codes, fix them and tune the engine.

the tuner can dump the codes and fix them usually on the spot. forget the MSD box, use the stock ignition and dizzy.

The street heat heads r the TFS high ports. The HP's r a great head, especially ported and that R is a great intake. I would use a OTB comp cam XE282HR. The TFS stage 2 is similar to comp cam XE274HR, I had one and was not impressed. The x cam does not have enough lift and duration at .542 and 224. u need more like .560-.575 and 230/240 with a 108lc.

like said above, its a simple fix, IT NEEDS TUNED. you cant build a 331 and expect the stock computer to know what the hells going on.

I had my 347 stroker for 4 years before it got a custom chip. it ran great. when the chip was done, I picked up 20rwhp and 15rwtq. The OP issue is different, his engine is running rich.

what do you idle at? with the X cam??? I idle at 1000rpm with that cam and the 331. Just wondering. Mine is tuned.

^ what's your base timing set at?

Before you go nuts trying to chase down the problem, there's something simple I would try. Seeing as how you have a C&L meter and what you are describing is not unheard of with them, did you try clocking the meter? Try turning the meter an "hour" at a time and take a short ride and see if you get better. C&L combined with a cold air intake can cause some real drivability hickups.

Posted via Mobile Device sounds like your 180 out or degrees off on your distributor has to be timed on your compression stroke

Start by losing the C&L meter.

cam degree?

did you degree the cam?...may have some advance built into it!