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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

1991 331 stroker trick flow, will not run good

  • Thread starter Thread starter real57vetteguy
  • Start date Start date Nov 17, 2009
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Notchbck93

New Member
Dec 9, 2003
422
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IL
Nov 22, 2009
#21
  • Nov 22, 2009
  • #21
You went through the process of correctly establishing lifter preload with the shims?
 
R

real57vetteguy

New Member
Nov 17, 2009
18
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0
Nov 23, 2009
#22
  • Nov 23, 2009
  • #22
re

After installing the new ignition module that cleared up the cracking and poping. The car is now starting to idle and run somewhat normal, it wants to rev to around 3000 rpm and stay there at times by its self, the headers are also getting quite hot. It seems the intake is pulling air from somewhere (trick flow R series) all bolts are tight, new gaskets, etc but if you use a slight bit of starting fluid around the upper/lower connection the engine rpm's will increase, possibly a vacume line or something as well picking it up as well but now I need to figure this out and stop this leak and see how it runs. Fuel pressure looks good at idle 34-36 psi but at 3000 rpm drops to the mid 20's

thanks
 
R

real57vetteguy

New Member
Nov 17, 2009
18
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Nov 24, 2009
#23
  • Nov 24, 2009
  • #23
thanks for the help guys, here is a pic of my rusted out junk

 

fiveohwblow

Official Member
15 Year Member
Jul 21, 2005
2,169
145
155
Nov 24, 2009
#24
  • Nov 24, 2009
  • #24
2000xp8 said:
Start by losing the C&L meter.
Click to expand...

 
R

real57vetteguy

New Member
Nov 17, 2009
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0
Nov 24, 2009
#25
  • Nov 24, 2009
  • #25
C&L meter

I borrowed A BB&K mass air set up calibrated for 24lb injectors from a buddy, it didnt change anything?
 

bigc2330

Member
Nov 13, 2009
78
7
9
Nov 24, 2009
#26
  • Nov 24, 2009
  • #26
With you motor setup i would personnaly go with 30lb injectors. Until then maybe raise your fuel pressure to 39 psi.
 
Reactions: 92LazerRedCoupe
9

92LazerRedCoupe

New Member
Jul 11, 2020
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Jul 11, 2020
#27
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #27
I think I’m a bit late here...anyway, I built a Keith Craft short block 331. I initially considered an X-303 cam but opted for the Street Heat Stage 2 from Trick Flow. I also used the TFTW heads and Street Heat intake. I had a 70 mm TB, 60 lb. injectors l, 300 log fuel pump.(I planned to supercharge it....kids started coming and hobby cash going!), new fuel pressure regulator, 1:7 rockers, shortly headers, did a auto to 5 speed swap and opted for the computer from another 92 because, as I understood it then, it would pretty much “self tune” the engine after every change made, so long as you completely drained the power from the system by taking the battery cable off...also, remember to have the system drained when you pull the pill when setting timing. Hook it back up w the pill out and set the timing, then reverse the process. My timing was set at around 24 deg from what I remember from almost 12 years ago now. Some don’t go to that extent but it seems to work better.
It took me a bit to get my engine from running rich. I had to mess with the fuel pressure. After a few attempts and resetting the system and about 5 miles of different acceleration driving, it ran like a champ. Dyno showed 386 hp and 416 fr lbs Tq at the tires. No expensive computer work done. Hope the shade tree and FIRST TIME FORD ENGINE BUILDER tips helped. Before my Stang I had an 85 S-10 w a .030 350, Performer RPM intake, 780 Holly, Vac Secnodariies w Proform chilled main body and quick change secondaries spring, as it was a daily driver...a wicked one!, Pwtronics HEI, 041 small valve heads, 292 Comp Cam, 7:1 rockers and on and on...plus A SECONDARY VACUUM CANNISTER TO ACTUATE MY 780 vacuum secondaries carb because, at idle, the cam has near no vacuum.
 
9

92LazerRedCoupe

New Member
Jul 11, 2020
5
0
1
Georgia
Jul 11, 2020
#28
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #28
bigc2330 said:
With you motor setup i would personnaly go with 30lb injectors. Until then maybe raise your fuel pressure to 39 psi.
Click to expand...
I ran 60 lb injectors and , as us old paramedics say, titrated the fuel pressure to effect. I just adjusted the regulator and test drive til I was satisfied. I also had the injectors because I planned to supercharge her one day....didn’t happen, sadly.
 
9

92LazerRedCoupe

New Member
Jul 11, 2020
5
0
1
Georgia
Jul 11, 2020
#29
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #29
Notchbck93 said:
You went through the process of correctly establishing lifter preload with the shims?
Click to expand...
I feel for him...my 92 was the first and so far, only Ford I’ve ever built. I remember my Chevy firing order from when I was 8! Yes old....have the NEW ONE on a business card in my money clip..LOL
 
9

92LazerRedCoupe

New Member
Jul 11, 2020
5
0
1
Georgia
Jul 11, 2020
#30
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #30
tannerc91gt said:
like said above, its a simple fix, IT NEEDS TUNED. you cant build a 331 and expect the stock computer to know what the hells going on.
Click to expand...
Some computers are better than others. I never had to have a chip burned. I would drain the electrical system of power when a change of any kind was made, Fire it off and drive her..:the preprogrammed maps picked right up did what it was supposed to do.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,902
10,555
203
polk county florida
Jul 11, 2020
#31
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #31
92LazerRedCoupe said:
I think I’m a bit late here...anyway, I built a Keith Craft short block 331. I initially considered an X-303 cam but opted for the Street Heat Stage 2 from Trick Flow. I also used the TFTW heads and Street Heat intake. I had a 70 mm TB, 60 lb. injectors l, 300 log fuel pump.(I planned to supercharge it....kids started coming and hobby cash going!), new fuel pressure regulator, 1:7 rockers, shortly headers, did a auto to 5 speed swap and opted for the computer from another 92 because, as I understood it then, it would pretty much “self tune” the engine after every change made, so long as you completely drained the power from the system by taking the battery cable off...also, remember to have the system drained when you pull the pill when setting timing. Hook it back up w the pill out and set the timing, then reverse the process. My timing was set at around 24 deg from what I remember from almost 12 years ago now. Some don’t go to that extent but it seems to work better.
It took me a bit to get my engine from running rich. I had to mess with the fuel pressure. After a few attempts and resetting the system and about 5 miles of different acceleration driving, it ran like a champ. Dyno showed 386 hp and 416 fr lbs Tq at the tires. No expensive computer work done. Hope the shade tree and FIRST TIME FORD ENGINE BUILDER tips helped. Before my Stang I had an 85 S-10 w a .030 350, Performer RPM intake, 780 Holly, Vac Secnodariies w Proform chilled main body and quick change secondaries spring, as it was a daily driver...a wicked one!, Pwtronics HEI, 041 small valve heads, 292 Comp Cam, 7:1 rockers and on and on...plus A SECONDARY VACUUM CANNISTER TO ACTUATE MY 780 vacuum secondaries carb because, at idle, the cam has near no vacuum.
Click to expand...
Late? A bit? You think?
Seriously though, happens all the time.
Hint: there is a post date in the top left corner. This case it was 2009, no matter, get over to the fox general talk forum and tell us more about your stang.
Extra points for pics.
Of the car.
Or your cat.
Or your neighbors cat.
Welcome to stangnet
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
2,745
194
Kearney, NE
Jul 11, 2020
#32
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #32
I went through THREE BBK meters in a short time, and had to clock them when working.
The C&L with new Delphi electronics inserted is a much better solution.

What else do you like better?
2000xp8 said:
Start by losing the C&L meter.
Click to expand...
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,024
1,616
194
NJ
Jul 11, 2020
#33
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #33
7991LXnSHO said:
I went through THREE BBK meters in a short time, and had to clock them when working.
The C&L with new Delphi electronics inserted is a much better solution.

What else do you like better?
Click to expand...

I typically like 80mm pro m's PMAS (or whatever the hell they call themselves these days.
Not sure what i liked 12 years ago when i made that post, lol.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
2,745
194
Kearney, NE
Jul 11, 2020
#34
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #34
I’ll keep that in mind in case I have problems in 12? Years.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
543
156
53
Houston, TX
Jul 11, 2020
#35
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #35
Pulled an ol fox slider i see. I like the 10-15 yr old thread bumps. Lol.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
2,745
194
Kearney, NE
Jul 11, 2020
#36
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #36
If the car is thirty years old, that makes it an update or follow up, not a zombie thread, right?
 
Last edited: Jul 11, 2020

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,902
10,555
203
polk county florida
Jul 11, 2020
#37
  • Jul 11, 2020
  • #37
7991LXnSHO said:
If the car is thirty years old, that makes it an update or follow up , not a zombie thread, right?
Click to expand...
AHHH, right?
 
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