1991 GT just up and died while driving

As the title says, it just died. I was at highway speed (maybe 60) and just lost all power. The gauges still worked, except the tach went to 0, even with the clutch engaged, and I know the engine was spinning since I had battery charge and power steering. And to test, I downshifted and released the clutch while coasting. The engine did not fire and the tach still showed 0. Because of this, I first suspect a crank position sensor or some sensor in the distributor. The car would not restart, even after sitting 30 minutes. The funny thing is that I coasted to a stop in a Ford dealership. The kind sales people helped me push it into a parking spot.
Now, it has been raining all day, and I did go through some puddles and splashed a lot. But nothing just prior to the failure.
Things I checked while I was there before my wife came to pick me up were: Rotor is turning while cranking, gauges seem to respond while in ON position and cranking, I 'think' I hear the fuel pump turning on with key on. Since the tach went 0 while on the road, I suspect some engine position sensor, or the ECM could just have died.

Any other thoughts as to what the culprit could be?

A little background. This is a 1-owner car, I bought it new. It has over a quarter million miles and is still a daily driver, as it always has been. No major mods outside of Flowmasters and K&N filter. The car has a manual transmission. I just filled up the tank 30 minutes before crap-out, but I had driven 10 miles or more, so the fuel is good. It has been hard to start, but I attribute that to fouled injectors, and injector cleaner is making a difference. This issue has been going on for a while, with backfiring occasionally, which is something new. ECM codes show some problem in the thermactor system, which I believe is unrelated to the assumed injector problem.
 
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I had this happen to me twice in 2016. First time the gear at the bottom of the distributor got chewed up because it was made of cast iron instead of steal. Bought a new ford reman distributor with the correct gear and changed the oil. The second time my MDS coil went bad. Your problem is most likely in the ignition.
 
Update. Got her running today. With the problems of the WuFlu, I had her parked in my company's warehouse. No one was there and she was safe and out of the weather. So, I bought a reman disty and new Motorcraft TFI. To test, I first checked to see 12v at the coil, and I had it. Then, I hooked the new assembled disty and TFI to the TFI plug. I disconnected the primary coil wire and set it to jump to ground with a short wire. Then, I turned the ignition to RUN and spun the disty gear by hand. Simulating a push-start condition. I saw sparks and heard the injectors working. I know the PIP was bad since I originally swapped the TFI with another. I then tried this with a spare disty I had laying around (of non-proven working condition) and it worked also. The used disty was in dirty shape and I probably would not have put it in mu car anyway.. But, this is an easy test for spark and such without cranking the engine. Tests can be done under the hood.

Now, where can i find a new PIP sensor? I want to put the original distributor back into the car to keep it original. I don't know if my TFI is good or not, but suspect it is. Just need a new PIP. I could use the one out of the reman distributor, but I believe it is a tested original one and old also. Looks old and used.
 
...Now, where can i find a new PIP sensor? I want to put the original distributor back into the car to keep it original. I don't know if my TFI is good or not, but suspect it is. Just need a new PIP. I could use the one out of the reman distributor, but I believe it is a tested original one and old also. Looks old and used.
Any auto parts store.
PIP = Profile Ignition Pickup
Motorcraft Part #DU30C
Standard Motor Products Part #LX222
 
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