1992 LX Build thread!

79'293stang · Mar 21, 2012

Get it, you may have to change the compressor housing out or get an elbow adapter to run a intercooler. You can upgrade to the larger 35lb injectors and large vam with a ecm change to match the vam and injectors. The E3 manifold is fairly crack happy so you may as well find an e6 on the cheap and do the swap when it is easy. If you want to run the newer box style intake you will need to drill an extra hole. Depending on your budget you can swap cams, or run the one in it, 85.5 and 86 got a slightly hotter profile and there is always the ranger roller and aftermarket stuff, my recommendation is to at least change the valve seals out before dropping it in.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 22, 2012

79'293stang said:
Get it, you may have to change the compressor housing out or get an elbow adapter to run a intercooler. You can upgrade to the larger 35lb injectors and large vam with a ecm change to match the vam and injectors. The E3 manifold is fairly crack happy so you may as well find an e6 on the cheap and do the swap when it is easy. If you want to run the newer box style intake you will need to drill an extra hole. Depending on your budget you can swap cams, or run the one in it, 85.5 and 86 got a slightly hotter profile and there is always the ranger roller and aftermarket stuff, my recommendation is to at least change the valve seals out before dropping it in.

well with any engine i buy i plan on tearing the head off, and having it gone through completely, maybe having boport do their budget head. if not there's a shop locally that does a lot of 2.3 heads. but i have been debating on the bottom end, but i will probably just check compression and the pistons when i pull the head off, and if all looks good not mess with it. then source an LA3, new manifolds, and possibly an intercooler. im not looking to make crazy power, just enough to have some fun with and retain some type of MPG, as iwill be driving a ton more soon

79'293stang · Mar 22, 2012

Most of what I described basically would put you at stock 86 SVO power levels plus a little extra from the E6 manifold. My car pulled 14.5 @98 with a MBC at 17lbs, K&N filter and flowmaster mufflers, full weight, granny shifting and making an easy launch to keep breakage down so I am sure there was a lot left on the table. I got around 29-31mpg with it on the HWY.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 22, 2012

79'293stang said:
Most of what I described basically would put you at stock 86 SVO power levels plus a little extra from the E6 manifold. My car pulled 14.5 @98 with a MBC at 17lbs, K&N filter and flowmaster mufflers, full weight, granny shifting and making an easy launch to keep breakage down so I am sure there was a lot left on the table. I got around 29-31mpg with it on the HWY.

awesome, thanks. the guy wants $500 for the engine with all accessories, some wiring, new t3-t4 hybrid. and it does have the manifolds, which i could make due with for awhile. it just seems like a pretty good deal. but it also comes with a new distributor. forgive me for my ignorance, but do our NA 2.3's have distributors? and are these older 2.3T's dual plugs?

tca7291 · Mar 22, 2012

Ford started the dual-plug 2.3L in 1991, any 2.3 prior to that is a 4 plug distributor engine, with a standard coil and only has one plug per cylinder.

tca7291 · Mar 22, 2012

P.s. as far as i know of all the turbo motors are 4 plug with distributor, I believe (someone correct me if I am wrong) the last 2.3 turbo was made in '87, prior to the DIS dual plug setup in '91.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 22, 2012

yeah, that was me spacing off, lol. well im trying to decide if this is a good deal for the $500, or if im better holding out for a 87-88 TC or SVO motor. i figure with the new distributor, t3/t4 hybrird, and all accessories and such it seems like a good start. just send the head off to get it re-built and ported and such and then source better manifolds.

tca7291 · Mar 22, 2012

As my personal opinion, I think it sounds like a good deal, don't know about the tranny, but as far as the engine it is worth it anyway, and you can always sell the tranny and use your existing trans.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 22, 2012

tca7291 said:
As my personal opinion, I think it sounds like a good deal, don't know about the tranny, but as far as the engine it is worth it anyway, and you can always sell the tranny and use your existing trans.

does not have a trans, but i already have an WCT5 from an SVO in the car. and im going to look at it tomorrow, if i get it i'll start looking for an LA3, 36 injectors, and a head rebuild. what would y'all do with the bottom end?

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 22, 2012

also replaced the wheel cylinders and shoes today, they were leaking bad, stops like new now! still plan on finding an 8.8 with discs and 3.55 at some point, but motor and front suspension is my first priority. the stock k-member is pretty shot, so im going to throw a cheap tubular in its place. and will stick with non-coilovers for now

79'293stang · Mar 23, 2012

Might not be a bad idea to toss in new bearings and all that good stuff.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 23, 2012

79'293stang said:
Might not be a bad idea to toss in new bearings and all that good stuff.

ok. i was supposed to see it this evening, but we had to re-schedule. the main thing i am debating is if getting it re-ringed is necessary. i won't really know until the time i tear it apart, but from what i understand the bottom end is pretty bullet proof
ALSO: i found a good deal on a large NPR and all tubing for it, he also has the v6 ranger radiator. do i need it?

79'293stang · Mar 24, 2012

Do you know how many miles it has that can be verified? Before tearing it down do compression and leakdown tests to see if they are sealing properly.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 24, 2012

79'293stang said:
Do you know how many miles it has that can be verified? Before tearing it down do compression and leakdown tests to see if they are sealing properly.

he claims 65k, my guess is it rolled over to 165k. either way i decided i'll re-ring it and replace the bearings. once i get it i will decide if it needs the hone or not. and since im on a bit of a budget, i'm going to pick up the Boport complete top-end kit and have a local shop do the work, should save me a bit of money

79'293stang · Mar 24, 2012

Depends on the shop, the machine shops around my area are ridiculously priced for anything. I wanted a stock set of 302 heads rebuilt with oversized valves and the cheapest I found was 1200 for the work which is the cost to just buy a set of alum heads ready to go. I have been hard pressed to find a place that does work for much cheaper than Bo and none that even get close to his quality.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 24, 2012

79'293stang said:
Depends on the shop, the machine shops around my area are ridiculously priced for anything. I wanted a stock set of 302 heads rebuilt with oversized valves and the cheapest I found was 1200 for the work which is the cost to just buy a set of alum heads ready to go. I have been hard pressed to find a place that does work for much cheaper than Bo and none that even get close to his quality.

i'll keep that in mind, thanks. i'll see what the local places want in labor. still waiting to hear back about the motor, guy is being a bit flaky. if this guy doesn't come through, the guy that im buying the FMIC and kit from has a complete 88 TC motor as well, and i think i could work a package deal. just afraid of what the freight will cost me.

79'293stang · Mar 24, 2012

Be wary of the 88 engines. I bought one for a build up and the bores were worn. I figured no big deal and took it to the machine shop and they hit water boring .010. I read around and apparently this is common with E8 blocks. I also went and purchased another turbo engine from a 88 and made sure to check the block code before buying and the guy swore it had never been out, but was sporting a E4 block code so I happily bought it and all was good. So see if the block code can be checked on that 88 if it comes to that.

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 24, 2012

79'293stang said:
Be wary of the 88 engines. I bought one for a build up and the bores were worn. I figured no big deal and took it to the machine shop and they hit water boring .010. I read around and apparently this is common with E8 blocks. I also went and purchased another turbo engine from a 88 and made sure to check the block code before buying and the guy swore it had never been out, but was sporting a E4 block code so I happily bought it and all was good. So see if the block code can be checked on that 88 if it comes to that.

wow, thanks, never heard that before. i will make sure to have him get me the casting number if i do get it

also, for those that did a engine swap, did you replace the k-member? im tempted to grab a tubular, but im kind of on a time crunch and need to get this done ASAP, and that would put it off another month due to funds. either way, i need to put new springs in due to the fact they need replacing, tierod ends and ball joints, and engine mounts. and if anyone has a LA3, i'll take it!

ALSO: will i use92 or 84 motor mounts?

Bansheeman6100 · Mar 25, 2012

just bought a large VAM, LA3 and the Thunderbird wiring harness for $180 shipped, and looking for a motor still. got a line on that FMIC with large NPR and Ranger radiator for $300 shipped. next up, aside from motor are ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings from the sway bar, and deciding on what springs to use. im not sure if i should go with a 4cyl/v6 spring set or a 5.0 set, either will be lowering springs. im thinking 5.0 with the extra weight. also trying to figure out with engine mount to use, and if i will need a turbo flywheel

79'293stang · Mar 25, 2012

K members from 79-93 are basically the same as far as mounting goes. The Tbirds use different motor mounts and brackets so you would want to use your mounts if you end up with a tbird engine.

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