Engine 1994 GT under drive pulley

[jozsefsz]

I appreciate the replies @General karthief , @GTVin , @Boostedpimp . I'm not typically a salty jackass, but some days when the moon's in its right phase I guess. I even thumbs'd you up @Boostedpimp because you're correct (albeit equivalently salty) as my results aren't fully scientific (nor comprehensive) either. Just reasonable extrapolation from my admittedly limited personal experience.

I have no recollection of the brand, I think something I got through AM probably, and installed myself. Long ago sold for scrap. Even if it was Chinese crap (perhaps lacking the fairy-dust material?) I don't see the magic a more expensive set would give you. Same size pulleys, same material / weight, same gains (or lack thereof). Maybe shinier and more durable and wouldn't explode over 4000rpm as most Chinese things do, so perhaps next time I'll buy the 'premium snake-oil' for better results. lol

Do whatever makes you happy, but fabricating or exaggerating results rubs me the wrong way because that contributes to people (like me in the past) making foolish choices. If you want ~4hp, and you live in a cool climate or are upgrading your cooling system, and you don't run a killer 1000W amp in the trunk, then go to town. For race-purposes on a high-revving engine it may make perfect sense (as would using an electric water-pump and a light-weight mini-alternator probably). @General karthief 's advice as always is good.

 

[General karthief]

Just common sense (where it came from I don't know) and a whole lot a luck (usually bad luck but luck just the same) I actually do a fair amount of reading and comparing experiences from others. Looking at the big picture will get you the info on where and when performance parts work, a good example is a cam with a lot of overlap to create the famous rumpitty-rump race car idle every one likes but they can make a car a dog off the line without the supporting gear change and such, so much race car crap get installed and stuff gets deleted because it made a race car faster or made more hp on the dyno but in real world driving in stop and go traffic made for a pain in the rear, hot, loud hard to drive car that really ain't no fun.

 

[96pushrod]

Do whatever makes you happy, but fabricating or exaggerating results rubs me the wrong way because that contributes to people (like me in the past) making foolish choices. If you want ~4hp, and you live in a cool climate or are upgrading your cooling system, and you don't run a killer 1000W amp in the trunk, then go to town. For race-purposes on a high-revving engine it may make perfect sense (as would using an electric water-pump and a light-weight mini-alternator probably). @General karthief 's advice as always is good.

Personally I think ~5hp for $100 and 5 mins time is a pretty good investment.

I ran underdrives all last summer with a stock cooling system and a 195* t stat and never had a problem with 98* weather. Never noticed a dip in alternator output either. Seemed to power the stock electric fan and my stereo just fine. I don’t buy that they’re terrible for the street, especially in sn95s.

With a fox body and a non-3g alternator I could see possible charging issues. Sh*t my old 84 could barely keep 12v with a Holley electric pump, lights and the windshield wipers on with the stock alt pulley lol.

I’d pick up a set of used u/d pullies. At least if you have issues, you’ll be able to unload them without much love lost.