Engine 1994 Mustang GT AODE puzzling issues

My 94 mustang gt has a built aode with a 26-2800 stall, the engine is a 347 stroker with the scat forged kit, worked gt40p heads with big valves, f303 cam, 1.72 crane rockers, ac/smog/EGR deleted, shorty headers, h pipe no cats, dumped glass packs, 4.10 gears, UD pulleys, 24lb ev6 injectors ford racing, SVO Motorsports upper and lower gt40 style intakes with 1 in phenolic spacer, 75mm tb, C&L intake pipe, PMAS 80mm calibrated for 24lb inj slot style Maf, 340LPH FP, etc etc. I’ve replaced every sensor, including ect, act, MLPS, Maf x4, tfi x5, IAC x2, TPS x3, O2s are new, trans has less than 2k miles, and I just finished installing head gaskets (all is good there 100%), lower intake gaskets, the timing cover and waterpump were removing to do the chain and set the timing of the cam and crank which was done professionally, heads cleaned, everything done right. Car will run like dog with Maf plugged in. Starts and dies. Popping through intake. Bogs with any throttle. Unplug the Maf, will do the same for a bit until it warms up and then it’ll idle/rev and even drive like a raped ape for the most part. My air filter was disgusting and full of oil, so that could be the issue too which I’ll see later this morning. Just has me baffled. Just replaced the TFI, fuel filter, plugs, wires, and entire dizzy just yesterday also. Timing set to 12 deg btdc spout out. Just don’t know what the deal is. Any helps is appreciated!

dcm0123 said:

I would disassemble and clean the MAF sensor along with all air ducts leading to and from it.

How did you get oil in your air filter?

Have you read the computer codes?
If not, read codes, erase, drive and read codes again.

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Sorry for such a late reply. I cleaned the entire upper intake, intake tube, new filter, Maf/Maf housing (which is a C&L 76mm calibrated for the 24 injectors). Plan on reading codes today so I’ll report back with that

RaggedGT said:

Are you tuned at all? Does your maf match the injectors?

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Tuned by Ted at tuning innovations. Only changes are with the 24lb ev6 injectors now instead of the ev1 on it before. Maf is the 76mm C&L calibrated for 24lb inj

CAMTWO1070 said:

Start the car and wiggle the wires going to the MAF sensor and by the EEC plug...I have a feeling you have wires rubbed together causing issues with the MAF voltage , MAF ground or MAF signal..

On my vehicle the engine wont run with the MAF disconnected but will run with the TPS unplugged as the TPS is a secondary to the MAF and the MAF is the primary so if your vehicle runs with the MAF disconnected you have wires shorting somewhere and the computer is operating in LIMP MODE or the MAF sensor plug is bad...Are you running an adapter on your MAF?..If so Ive had 2 adapters go bad as the terminals inside dont grab and if offset a lil the male part of the terminal gets pushed back instead of sliding into the female part of the terminal......Its best to get a replacement plug and wiring it in...



I also noticed you said you have 24lb EV6 FR injectors...You do know that youre gonna need a tuning chip or someone who can change the ECU settings so you can set the high and low slope of the injector aswell as set the injector breakpoint for those injectors and then your gonna have to do a MAF transfer profile enhancement.......You can also try finding an X3Z computer thats already set for 24lb injectors..



Heres what your settings look like with an A9L/A9P computers

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I actually tried a wiggle test first and no changes whatsoever. Checked all wires and found no broken or exposed wires thankfully. If I reset the ECU, then run with the Maf plugged in at initial start and onward, then it will die out if I unplug it while running. But it will run in limp mode if I have someone unplug it while running and give it gas. The MAF is a stock unit from Oreillys, and is paired with a 76mm C&L Maf calibrated for 24lb injectors with the little calibration tube inside the housing. I also have a brand new PMAS 80mm slot style Maf calibrated for 24lb injectors that’s made for plug/play use and that sadly didn’t change anything either. The air filter was trashed, so that actually helped clear up the backfiring partially, but still there and rather prominent. Honestly, I didn’t think about the impedance or anything between the new injectors and the old so thank you for that. Maybe I should swap back to the ev1 to test? It’s got a tune chip for all the mods on the car (heads, cam, intake, trans tuning, etc) which doesn’t change the popping either much. It’s just crazy how it runs smooth and like a different car with the Maf unplugged, then run like garbage with the Maf plugged in. I tried cleaning the Maf, new filter, new PCV, new ect, new act, new tps, new IAC, new fpr, new fuel filter, new battery, new alternator, all new fuses, new plugs/wires, new dizzy, new Tfi, new coil, all new grounds, new o2s, the pump is a new 340LPH kenso, so I’m just as a loss. I appreciate your help, and once I get to the car today and get codes and swap injectors I’ll report back.