Hello everyone I'm new to this site. I just purchased a 97 gt 5spd. Need advice in adding more reliable power. I have built a few fox body 5.0'S, but im new to the 4.6. The car has 91k miles on it with the current mods h pipe with mac cat back exhaust, king cobra clutch and k&n air filter. I want to boost the power up to around 300hp for starters and need advice on how safely. 1st off I need to replace that crappy plastic manifold that is cracked and started to leak coolant. everything else mechanically is great no other leaks or issues. Any advice would be great.
1997 GT
- Thread starter STEEDMAN
- Start date
281CI96Coupe
Member
- Oct 30, 2006
- 233
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- 16
These are the parts you should invest in:
1. P.I Intake Manifold
2. P.I Heads (Ported and Polish)
3. Comp cams
4. Long tubes
1. P.I Intake Manifold
2. P.I Heads (Ported and Polish)
3. Comp cams
4. Long tubes
Blackone51
Member
- Oct 30, 2008
- 201
- 2
- 16
Forget the PI heads, just port and polish your nPI heads.+++ on everything else.
I disagree, few out there really know how to make NPI heads flow. Not many head porters have good experience with them. A good port job on NPI heads will cost you 700-1000 dollars. I believe Renegade and only a few others do NPI heads.
Get a set of used PI heads complete with cams for 100-200 dollars or so. The intake will cost you another 50-75 dollars. Bolts, gaskets, and your looking at 350-400 dollars for parts. Much cheaper, and more power than stock ported NPI heads with the stock cams and intake.
Are you looking at 300rwhp or 300 at the crank? 300rwhp, you will have to add a set of great cams, LT headers, pullies and a good tune.
Blackone51
Member
- Oct 30, 2008
- 201
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- 16
I understand money wise but from my understanding nPI heads flow better when ported, or have I been misinformed? Plus Im just not a fan of switching to PI heads, isnt the intake and cams mostly what is the upgrade from nPI to PI mustangs.
Yes, ported NPI will outflow PI's.
Half the headswap power comes from the intake and cams, the other half is the bump in compression and heads themselves. It's just cheaper to do the whole thing than having NPI heads ported, and getting PI cams and a PI intake.
fast97gt
Active Member
swappiing to pi heads and intake is a great thing...but time and money wise, well the first question, shouldve been is this your daily driver. if not then do some nitrous cams, a cai, 70-75 mill. throttle body, and put a 150 shot with a really good tune while keeping your npi heads. if it is a daily driver, then do a pi swap some good n/a cams 70-75 mill. throttle body, cai, a bigger maf sensor, and areally good tune. with pi heads you'll raise the compression to 10:1, from the factory 9.3:1. thus making it hard to to do a high boost power adder w/o building the mess ou of the bottom end. but you can do a moderate boost around 7-9psi. ive seen on some ocassions stock block 4.6s with pi heads and good cams make upwards of 60rwhp, w/o a tune.
fast97gt
Active Member
9lbs comfortibly with a good tune, (ive haerd but not seen people puttin almost 12lbs ona stock block) that will put you at the 300-325 mark on stock h/c/i. but will cost $3,000 or better. but ive also heard that goin the boosted route is not good on a daily driver.
I don't think you really know what you are talking about, from your previous post.
Why would he need a new MAF on headswap or PI intake/cam car? The stock one won't be pegged, nor will the stock tb.
Where did you get the idea that 12lbs of boost on a head/cam car will get your 300rwhp? Are you just posting stuff that you have heard and have no experience with? This is a tech thread, come on. Stop pulling stuff out of your arse.
02nightmaregt
To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
300rwhp is gonna be tough if staying N/A. I agree with Winter, your gonna need some good cams, among other things, to get there.If i were you i'd do the PI swap and go from there. N2o is a goo way to get there. FI is also an easy way, juust costly. After everything i've done to my car i would have to say i wish i would have done gears and suspension first. That way i was getting the most out of the power i already had. FYI listen to Winters this guy knows what he is talking about
fast97gt
Active Member
READ my post and what i answered, i said 9lbs and a good tune will get him to his mark. he asked how much is too much, LOOK at my post in the perinthisis, it said "ive heard but not seen 12lbs on a stock block would be about the max" or somewere there abouts is what i said...and besides 12lbs will put him well over the 300 mark. now i never said 12lbs. of boost on a heads and cam car would get him his 300hp. you need to read carefully, and using a bigger maf and bigger t/b will let you have more of a brodder range to tune the car, and it'll especially be good if he decided to do a power adder, oh and read the post more carefully.
fast97gt
Active Member
02nightmaregt
To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
1. you tell somebody to add a 150 shot to a stock bottom end.
2. you tell somebody to add heads cam and boost on a stock bottom end with the increased compression
3. you tell somebody to change to a cold air filter. The bbk cold air kit you are running hurts power. I have tested it at the track over the stock airbox the same day with consistant 60ft's and DA's. Cold air kits do nothing on our cars.
4. you tell somebody to change the MAF. Why? The stock one isn't even close to being pegged. The stock one should not be change on our cars with bolt ons, regardless of what you plan to do in the future?
6. You stated that the PI headswap raises compression to 10:1, wrong. It is more like 10.4-10.65:1.
1. and 2. have been done before, but it is not safe and it is not a good idea to suggest that to somebody.
the98stang
Active Member
I say a 100 shot with a Walbro pump and tune. BAM .....around 300WHP and reliability. It's but done thousands of times, and with the correct safety precautions (safety switch, window switch, AFR gauge) your sh1t will FAST! The torque is the best part.....and all for $600
Dollar per horsepower, NOTHING beats nitrous
Dollar per horsepower, NOTHING beats nitrous
fast97gt
Active Member
2001 gt here in my town runs 250 shot stock bottom end and a REALY good tune at the track on the weekends. and i said "when you do a pi swap it raises the compression thus MAKING it hard to do a HIGH BOOST power adder read and understand you freakin tard. and the 10.:1 is nominal because higher mileage engines start to LOSE compression over time.
Sorry, but this is really funny. You certainly made me laugh.
First of all, no one in the world states compression 'nominally' considering blowby. It is a STATIC ratio of the volume at BDC to the volume at TDC. Some people talk about dynamic compression, but that considers boost pressure and cam timing events to give an idea of the limits of your fuel. To consider your compression lower due to blowby is funny.
My 2.3 has something around 8:1... it has a more blowby when I run nitrous than just 20psi... so maybe at 20psi it has 7.5:1 and on the juice, my compression drops to 6.5:1.
As for a 250 shot on a stock bottom end. What's a "REALY good" tune? Does that mean the timing is backed off to 10* total and it's pig rich, with actual gains of 150hp on a 250 shot?
Whatever, the 250 shot you are telling us about is just a story. Did you help put the car together? Can you confirm what pistons and solenoids he has, along with actaul gains at the wheels? It's easy to put 250 jets on any basic solenoid, but most solenoids won't flow more than 175shot, so it doesn't matter how big your jets are.
As for real world gains on juice... my 2.3 went from 12.96@106 to 12.26@111mph with a 45 shot.
Get some real world experience before telling stories. Talking to someone at the gas station who says they have a 250 shot on thier 01 GT doesn't count. This is just shooting bull and they or you could make up any story they want. If you talk to me at the gas station, I've got a basically stock 2.3 with nothing special that runs 12s. If you want to contribute techinical help, you need to get real experience, like putting a power adder on your own car or helping a friend every weekend with his ride. I bet you've never even held a nitrous bottle, much less sprayed anything you owned.
First of all, no one in the world states compression 'nominally' considering blowby. It is a STATIC ratio of the volume at BDC to the volume at TDC. Some people talk about dynamic compression, but that considers boost pressure and cam timing events to give an idea of the limits of your fuel. To consider your compression lower due to blowby is funny.
My 2.3 has something around 8:1... it has a more blowby when I run nitrous than just 20psi... so maybe at 20psi it has 7.5:1 and on the juice, my compression drops to 6.5:1. As for a 250 shot on a stock bottom end. What's a "REALY good" tune? Does that mean the timing is backed off to 10* total and it's pig rich, with actual gains of 150hp on a 250 shot?
Whatever, the 250 shot you are telling us about is just a story. Did you help put the car together? Can you confirm what pistons and solenoids he has, along with actaul gains at the wheels? It's easy to put 250 jets on any basic solenoid, but most solenoids won't flow more than 175shot, so it doesn't matter how big your jets are.As for real world gains on juice... my 2.3 went from 12.96@106 to 12.26@111mph with a 45 shot.
Get some real world experience before telling stories. Talking to someone at the gas station who says they have a 250 shot on thier 01 GT doesn't count. This is just shooting bull and they or you could make up any story they want. If you talk to me at the gas station, I've got a basically stock 2.3 with nothing special that runs 12s. If you want to contribute techinical help, you need to get real experience, like putting a power adder on your own car or helping a friend every weekend with his ride. I bet you've never even held a nitrous bottle, much less sprayed anything you owned.
Try using proper English and complete sentences, too. Your signature
it's "bassani, tokico"
