1st stang

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.



*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found for the MAF adapter flange.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/
 
Just use the stock air box, there is no difference between that with a k&n panel filter than the conical ones that go in the fender as it already draws the air from the fender. If you do the conical type then ge the one that goes in the fender, as the one that doesn't isn't shielded from fan wash or engine heat. Also if you get a metal CAI, remember that metal conducts heat many many times better than plastc. Those things get real hot under that hood and end up actually heating the air hotter than the stock intake does, so calling it a cold air intake is all but lying. No you won't suck any bad stuff with the filter in the fender if you keep you fender skirts.

On the MM setup it really depends how far you want to go in the suspension of your mustang. If you want to really get it set up well then the MM kit is a waste of money, as you will replace your k member with a tubular one anyway, and that brace can be thrown out. Also, you can't get a 4 point brace and use longtube headers...
 
I'm with serijou - the LAST thing you want to do is put an open conical filter under the hood where it pulls in hot air. You'll lose power with that set up compared to the stock air box. Get your filter where it's picking up cold air (fenderwell) or save the money and remove the silencer from the stock box, and drop your K&N flat panel in the stock box.
 
It's thermodynamics - nothing to do with the length of travel. The hotter the intake air - the less power made; the colder, the more. Typically, hot under-hood air is anywhere from 150-200F depending on ambient conditions, how fast the car's moving, etc. You've got the engine radiating heat, and all kinds of hot air coming off the radiator entering the compartment. You don't want to pick up that air in the air filter -- you want the filter picking up the coolest air it can pick up. Because for each 10F INCREASE in intake air temp, you lose 1/2% - 1% HP. That's why people who hang the conicals under the hood lose power. Many mistake the sound of 'intake honk' (compared to the stock box) for power - but it just ain't so.

But, don't take my word for it - here's a test showing absolutely no gain with a CAI compared to the stock box with silencer removed and the stock filter replaced by a K&N flat panel. Read what they say at the end of the article about placing the filter element inside the engine compartment. The stock box on almost all fuel injected cars is already a cold air intake.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/03/coldair/
 
How do I go about removing the silencer from my stock intake?

also im looking for a pair of winter tires because the car has to be driven to school almost everyday, and i dont want to be slipping all over the place, i have 245/45 all around right now - what should i look for?
 
I'd look for a good all-season radial in the 225/55/16 size (I assume that's the size wheels you have). And even with that you'll probably still be slipping all over the place. If you want to take it another step, look for a winter-only design, and take the width down even more - 215/60 or 205/65 size.

Take your stock airbox out, and you'll see the silencer in the fender well. You'll likely have to mess around up under the fender to snake it out, but you should be able to look at it and figure it out.
 
thanks, you all have been very helpful, if you guys got any other tidbits or helpful info to share for someone just starting to mod their car, dont be shy to throw it in this thread..
 
whats the max size i can go without removing or adding anything?


by the way, can someone tell me the easiest way to take out the damn air silencer, i can see it when i look through the engine bay but i am not sure how to get it off
 
i was messing with my stock air intake today, and i pulled off the small tip oval piece closest to the light - is that the air silencer? I sure hope I took out the right thing..