2.3 guys stumped!

[87LX2.3]

I think I've gotten the guys on the 2.3l forum stumped so I'll see if you guys have any ideas.
I replaced the valve cover gasket on my '87 2.3 last Friday. After getting it all put back together, I checked to make sure all of the hoses, lines, wires, and linkages were hooked up. It looked like all of them were, so I started it up. It ran a little rough, but I didn't think anything of it. As soon as I put it in reverse to back it out of my driveway, it coughed, shuddered, and then died. When I tried to restart it, it acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It cranked over perfectly, but it wouldn't start. I've gone back and re-checked all the hoses, electrical plugs, and lines, and everything I can find was hooked up. How can I check to see if I'm getting fuel? What other possibilities could it be? Thanks!

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

They're not stumped, you haven't checked the things in that thread yet. No fuel coming out of the schraeder valve means you have no fuel pressure, so that's one thing to take note of. Does the fuel pump prime when you first turn the ignition on? Do you have spark? A new TFI could still be bad. Are there any codes? Any vacuum lines in the vicinity of the valve cover that were disturbed, such as the PCV or brake booster lines? I could see a large leak like that being potentially bad enough to make it too lean to run.

 

[87LX2.3]

Thanks!!!!

Ok, I'll look for loose or disconnected lines/hoses today and post back.
Thanks!

 

[87LX2.3]

Yes, I checked the hoses/lines/linkages. Everything is tight, secure, and where it's supposed to be. Where do you hook up a code reader on an '87? Thanks for the advice.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

No fuel coming out of the schraeder valve means you have no fuel pressure, so that's one thing to take note of. Does the fuel pump prime when you first turn the ignition on? Do you have spark? A new TFI could still be bad.

What about this stuff?


Here's some info to pull codes, courtesy of jrichker:

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[87LX2.3]

Ok, I'll look for loose or disconnected lines/hoses today and post back.
Thanks!

I'll do those and check the schrader valve and TFI tomorrow and post back.