2 issues I cant fix without help

footbrake · Aug 28, 2009

Ok guys I am brand new here so be patient.
I just bought someone elses problem, I love this car but it has 2 issues I can't solve on my own please help if you can.

It is a 95 gt with a basically stock 5.0 that has long tube headers, 70mm
throttle body, perfomer upper and lower intake, Procharger supercharger, 42lb injectors, and a pmas mass air sensor calibrated for the 42bl injectors.

Problems... I have a check engine light with code 157 ( mass air low or grounded) and 332 (EGR)

and when the car has been run up to operating temp and shut off for a moment ( say to fill up with gas )
the restart time is very long. it acts like its flooded but I cant prove that because I don't see black smoke when it does start. cold start is fine and the car seems to run fine.
I have a fuel prssure guage in the car and fuel prssure is 40 lbs steady

I also have an air fuel ratio guage and it shows normal. ( lean to rich )

any ideas.

jrichker · Aug 28, 2009

Fix the Mass Air sensor problem first and then see if a lot of the startup problems don't clear up.

The 332 code is pretty much the same as the 33 code on 86-93 Mustangs. The wiring colors are different, so don't use them without checking the diagrams.

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1.5 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.

connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connnect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).

apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

if engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
if not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

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