86bluecobra said:1 other thing i don't have is a nitrous blanket warmer. i notice that i am faster in aug then i am in may i think it maybe the fact in aug my nitrous bottle is giving me full pressure due to the temp outside.
86bluecobra said:can't find a forum where it talks about the nitrous flow tool on that site you sent me bluevenom
86bluecobra said:lol you are going to think im a real rookie now. would you believe i don't have a nitrous pressue gauge. don't hit me. i know some back yard twit doesn't deserve a 11 sec car. sorry there are so many things i still need.
86bluecobra said:ok now i have to go to work i have 2 fuel pumps in my car 1 for my engine and a seperate one plumbed to my nitrous fuel solinoid. would this still work in that case? btw i maynot reply right away i have to do some work. geez the things they expect of me. thx.
86bluecobra said:is this tool basically the same thing as a regulator?
bluevenom867 said:Eh,its barley readable.
Tuning on a carb for max hp (wide open) is that easy,you get the fastest mph and the plugs still look good.The other circuits dont need much tuning,other than a couple of screws turned to make the baseline set-up Holley gives you run smooth.
Yea,I have read a bunch of differant exhaust articles,but the thing is,is every set-up is differant.
You can dyno two headers with the same lenght tube,same diameter,some collecter size,but still get differant numbers...why?Cause small stuff,differant bends,collecter entrance angle,collector length,blended weld,and even the material.
Now theroy can some times be differant than what actualy works,but basicly...short,fat tubes are for high rpm,and long small tubes are for low rpm.I think most of the shorty headers problems is the they have a terrable collecter angle,tight bends,and the over all length of the collector is bad.
But all this "knowledge" doesnt mean a thing is you dont got the cash to spend on parts,so us it with what will make you the most power.
hrspwrjunkie said:I disagree. Most people don't know how to tune the other circuits, but there are gains to be made in drivability and performance from tuning the other circuits. It can be time consuming and require a loadable dyno or a number of drive and adjusting test sessions, but there are gains to be made in overall performance.
Every set up is different, which is why it is important to understand the fundamentals and variables in exhaust gas dynamics and tube design, which was why I pointed out the "barely readable" article by one of the most knowledgable people in the world on the subject.
It's the small stuff that improves performance and REFINES a cars performance and drivability. I've found these refinements to be both important and effective on overall performance...as have many other individuals, most noteably people such as David Vizard, Smokey Yunich and Carroll Smith.
Vizard has spent many years figuring out what effects tube bends, collector lengths, tube lengths, tube diameters, muffler designs and the like have on the performance characteristics of engines of all types, sizes and assemblies. Which, again, was why I pointed out that specific article. And you would be surprised how things like collector lengths and tube diameters actually effect the performance of an engine. Many times they don't follow the guidelines you pointed out. Those types of things are very application specific.
As for tuning an engine combination or carb for max power, it isn't that easy. A person needs to understand characteristics like swirl, atomization, combustion, thermal dynamics, fuel octane, ignition advance, plug temperature, flame front expansion, exhaust gas dynamics, valvetrain dynamics and such to actually tune an engine correctly. It would also behoove a person to have an accurate Air/Fuel meter handy if they really want to get the most from their combination on their own. Back yard methods were cute for the last 50 years, but we are in the modern ages where there is a lot to be gained from understanding the current level of automotive knowledge available to the average enthusiast and utilizing modern technology.
What that means is that unless a person has or is a veritable encyclopedia of automotive knowledge, it would be smart to take it to someone with considerable tuning experience and a strong understanding of the internal combustion engine to get a combination to really run well.
That said, the body of knowledge that is now available is probably beyond the average enthusiast to use (monitarily as well as time to learn and execute), but through a little comprehension there is a lot to be gained from making careful choices and refining what they can...such as tuning a combination by doing more than switching carb jets.
But, My goal was to help out, not insitigate an argument.
bluevenom867 said:Ok,you basicly just said what I didnt about the exhaust.
As for the carb tuning,when I got my foot to the floor,I dont care about the idel or transition circuits.The carbs out of the box usually have decent idel settings and emulsion jets/air bleeds for the avrage person.You can basicly tune most of it yourself with main jets,squirters,pump cams,and fuel pressure.Also boosters if you got removable ones,the other stuff might get you a little more power or a smoother feel,but its not necassary for the avrage person.
Swirl, atomization, combustion, thermal dynamics, fuel octane, ignition advance, plug temperature, flame front expansion, exhaust gas dynamics, valvetrain dynamics-most of that stuff cant be change with out some serious money.Theres also alot more to it than that,but some stuff is double edged,as in you improve one thing it will hurt another.
As for "back yard" tuning methods being out dated,then why would we still even be using carbs?Cause they work,you could be a mathmaticle genius,figuer out every veriable of fuel burn rate,theroretical optimum timing,desing a combustion chamber,piston top,cylinder wall and valves and seat to run perfect at the exact conditions.Then as you go down the track the air temp drop by a 1/10 of a degree and picks up 1% humidity and it all goes to waste.
Plus,with plugs you can see detonation that you cant even hear (it show on the porclen).
Im not arguing with you,just saying that this works JUST AS GOOD.
86bluecobra said:wow both you guys know way more then me. i think the last couple posts went over my head. I have never really looked at my plugs after a race. I do know that sometimes i have to change em because i have developed a miss after i have been racing.
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