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2 quick questions ....

  • Thread starter Thread starter GeneralGrant
  • Start date Start date Dec 18, 2003

GeneralGrant

New Member
May 12, 2003
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Dec 18, 2003
#1
  • Dec 18, 2003
  • #1
Ok first how do i know when my clutch is broken in.
Im crossing the 400 mile mark on it but im not sure if i can start whooping on it yet.

second my brakes are kinda spongy and it doesnt seem to go away when i pump the brakes. The car appears to only be stoping with the fronts according to the guy that i had look at it. He seems to think that it is possibly a collapsed line or a master cylinder. Any ideas or suggestions?
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2003
#2
  • Dec 18, 2003
  • #2
GeneralGrant said:
Ok first how do i know when my clutch is broken in.
Im crossing the 400 mile mark on it but im not sure if i can start whooping on it yet.

second my brakes are kinda spongy and it doesnt seem to go away when i pump the brakes. The car appears to only be stoping with the fronts according to the guy that i had look at it. He seems to think that it is possibly a collapsed line or a master cylinder. Any ideas or suggestions?
Click to expand...

The break in period for a new clutch is dependant on who you talk to. I have heard as little as 50 miles, and as much as 500. 500 sounds good to me. That is how long I waited.

Now, onto brakes. What is the condition of your pads/rotors on all 4 wheels. I have noticed that even when you turn rotors and put on new pads, the rotors will not mate well, causing the brakes to get very glazed. If the pads are glazed, and you turned the rotors w/ the new pads, get brand new rotors and brand new pads. This might eleviate your problem.

The master cylinder has two cylinders. One cylinder for the rear, and one from the front. If you suspect the mechanic is right, remove all four wheels and watch the calipers engage the pads to the rotors. If the rear pads are not being engaged, you have a problem with your master cylinder. There are pressure valves that can be replaced individually, and one of these may be the culprit. But first read my steps below.

First, check for fluid loss. If the reservoir maintains fluid, that is a good sign. If you are losing/lost fluid, go to step 3.

Second, bleed the brakes, then test drive. If braking does not improve, go to step three.

Third, check the brake lines for any crimps/cuts/damage. If you have fluid loss, have someone pump the brakes while you examine each line. That should bring the culprit to the surface. Replace as necessary. Bleed the brakes and test drive.

Fourth, consult your haynes manual. It should tell you how to narrow down your problem to a specific component.
Scott
 

GeneralGrant

New Member
May 12, 2003
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Dec 18, 2003
#3
  • Dec 18, 2003
  • #3
Well i got the wheels out and bled the lines and checked for collapsed ones. No luck. IM going back tonight to adjust the rear calipers. If thats not it im guessing master cylander. But i was told that master cylanders general work or dont and i wouldnt have breaks at all. I have breaks it just seems to only be the fronts. So i dunno what's up....
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
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76
Altoona, PA
Dec 19, 2003
#4
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #4
As for the clutch, my last two have been installed either the day before, or day of track testing. So in other words, I break them in at the track. Is this the right way to do it, no, but I haven't had a problem doing it this way either.
 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003
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Dec 19, 2003
#5
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #5
Killercanary said:
As for the clutch, my last two have been installed either the day before, or day of track testing. So in other words, I break them in at the track. Is this the right way to do it, no, but I haven't had a problem doing it this way either.
Click to expand...
I got a feel for the new pedal pressure going down the road, and at the first red light, I stomped it and let it bite second pretty hard. I had about 8 tenths of a mile for the break in period. I would say 50-100 very safely conservatively driven miles would be good. The installation and the proper alignment is what really matters. The 400 miles does wear the clutch in, but it allows everything to "seat" right, if you understand what I mean. I think you are well beyond your break-in period. Go out and stomp on it.

Joe
 
E

epracmetcon

New Member
Jul 10, 2003
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Dec 19, 2003
#6
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #6
I waited about 500 miles before I gave it all she had when I had a new clutch.
 
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