2001 V6 to 4V same MY swap

I have a 2001 V6 Manual that has sentimental value, is in excellent shape but is reaching the 100K mile mark. I want to minimize the pain of a swap to (preferably) a 4.6L 4V. From what I've read, sticking to the same MY is the least pain, mainly electrically. I would love to put an 03/04 Terminator engine with a T56, but I've read that's a different animal. What are your thoughts on putting a 2001 4V? Or (less preferably) a 2001 4.6L 2V?
 
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I have a 2001 V6 Manual that has sentimental value, is in excellent shape but is reaching the 100K mile mark. I want to minimize the pain of a swap to (preferably) a 4.6L 4V. From what I've read, sticking to the same MY is the least pain, mainly electrically. I would love to put an 03/04 Terminator engine with a T56, but I've read that's a different animal. What are your thoughts on putting a 2001 4V? Or (less preferably) a 2001 4.6L 2V?
Found this; seems like it has the majority of what I would need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2550110727...d=link&campid=5335821607&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
 
PCM, Can-Bus, mechanicals??? That's the issue you have. Once you change the format, you have a LOT to deal with. I'm currently dealing with putting a Coyote in my '02, and in CA, it's a huge challenge, but doable. So, if you don't have any emission regulations and can do it, have time and $$$, do it, but be prepared to encounter a lot of things you're not thinking about right now. Easy way out is to refresh the V6, and probably less painful. jmo
 
PCM, Can-Bus, mechanicals??? That's the issue you have. Once you change the format, you have a LOT to deal with. I'm currently dealing with putting a Coyote in my '02, and in CA, it's a huge challenge, but doable. So, if you don't have any emission regulations and can do it, have time and $$$, do it, but be prepared to encounter a lot of things you're not thinking about right now. Easy way out is to refresh the V6, and probably less painful. jmo
I’m sure your Coyote swap is way more work than what I was thinking. At least the 4.6 I’m looking at was an option for the year I have. I know I would have to do things like switch to hydroboost brakes, due to clearance. The kit I referenced on eBay would seem to make it easier (ECU, engine harness, cluster, accessories w/brackets). But you’re right: there are always things you didn’t anticipate. That’s why I’m reaching out to this groups collective knowledge; I’m sure there are some lessons learned from others who came before me.
Good luck with your Coyote!
 
A parts car would make this swap easier. There's going to be a lot of misc items you won't get in that swap kit that you will need to seek out.

For example, with the hydroboost you'll need the pedal assembly as well. You'll need the hoses and lines. If you have to chase all this down separately it will be a PITA, not to mention likely more expensive for you. That ebay listing mentions that the hardware alone is likely $1K. They aren't joking. All those little odds and ends add up if you need to seek them out individually every time you move onto a different area of the project.

Easiest parts car to use would be a 2001 Cobra, but if you found a 99 cobra or even a 03/04 Cobra you can certainly use those. ANything in the 99-04 span is wired very similarly so it will work. A mach 1 could even be used.
 
A parts car would make this swap easier. There's going to be a lot of misc items you won't get in that swap kit that you will need to seek out.

For example, with the hydroboost you'll need the pedal assembly as well. You'll need the hoses and lines. If you have to chase all this down separately it will be a PITA, not to mention likely more expensive for you. That ebay listing mentions that the hardware alone is likely $1K. They aren't joking. All those little odds and ends add up if you need to seek them out individually every time you move onto a different area of the project.

Easiest parts car to use would be a 2001 Cobra, but if you found a 99 cobra or even a 03/04 Cobra you can certainly use those. ANything in the 99-04 span is wired very similarly so it will work. A mach 1 could even be used.
No doubt about it: a donor car would make it easier. It’s been my experience with other projects that the first 90% might not be too bad, but the last 10% can sometimes eat your lunch. I bought a wiring diagram book for the 2001 model, so I could study the differences between the V6, 2V, and 4V, because I heard the electrical part of the swap can be a chunk of that 10%. I’m torn between the pride of saying “Yeah, I put that engine in it” vs. the fun of just going out and buying a Cobra after selling the V6. If others have done a similar swap, and have lessons learned that would minimize the surprises of that last 10%, I would probably lean towards the pride of saying I swapped it. Anyone can just write a check.
Really appreciate your advice.
 
I am undertaking this project right now. I live near about six pic-ur-parts so I have been able to get a rear end ($120) and 5 sp9$150), driveshaft(50), pedals, hydro-boost ($90) all for good prices relatively easily. I paid $500 for a super clean intake with brand new throttle cable. I think $200 for cobra valve covers, front engine cover ($150), then there was the alternator (80) , the alt bracket (60), the coolant intake pipe ($180), Then i realized I needed all the ABS system($140) , including lines because the v6 non-abs has different lines.
I decided to freshen up the DOHC engine (Junkyard Aviator), so about $1300 for machine work including valve job, just hone and re-use pistons, but at least $350 in main and head bolts. Of course I want it to last so I got new lifters and followers, around ($600), timing set ($500), plus all new gaskets and seals.
I got the computer and its harness, the engine bay fuse block harness, and dash harness from ebay for over $500. I needed the dash harness because mine is a 2000 and they changed some things in 2001, and now I want everything 2003. I am also swapping to a 2003 dash, ($80). The GT flywheel I scored needed re-surfacing, ($60), driveshaft was balanced with new U-joints installed ($180),

I am delayed right now because: First I ordered the wrong rings. For 03-04 some 4.6 have a top ring of 1.2 thickness, not 1.5. Next- piston rings were backordered, then I ruined a set because Chiltons/Haynes says to gap end of rings to .039. That is wrong. They should be half that big of gap. I'm glad I decided to doubled check before I sent it.
So it can be done. It has been alot of work and driving around. I am wishing I would have bought a Bullet for $5000 I was looking at. or putting a turbo kit on a V6. I see why racers still use SBF because they are way cheaper to rebuild.
 
I would think going 2v much more reasonable. Half as many lifters and followers to buy and valves to grind. But I see the harnesses and computers for GT's on ebay pretty cheap. A 2v 4.6 can be sourced from many cars. Andrew on Mustang Lifstyle on ytoob just swap a Lincoln 4.6 straight into a bullet, added a turbo kit and headers and it is cool. it just depends on how much for the rest of the drive train. And of course PATS is a pain when swapping computers and clusters like I am doing.
 
PATS can be done by a dealer with marrying of both PCM and dash. Your only other option is to by-pass it but it may not be legal to do where you are.
Just so you know;;; There is a free open source program out there called Forcsan. I used it with a usb dongle on my PC (i got on Amzn) and accessed the PATS and program my keys. Car started right up. I is very limited with these older cars but is a very powerful program for newer cars and trucks. The programmers helped me when the first dongle did not work. There is tons of info out there about how to download it and set it up. Then get a reputable dongle. Ill still need to program the vin in the ecm to match my chassis before I go to smog check, as Forscan cannot do that on these cars (it can some cars).
 
ForScan is an amazing program. I’ve used it to change many settings on my newer DD, program a few “dealer can only do” modules and enabled navigation to my car with it
 
I have a 2001 V6 Manual that has sentimental value, is in excellent shape but is reaching the 100K mile mark. I want to minimize the pain of a swap to (preferably) a 4.6L 4V. From what I've read, sticking to the same MY is the least pain, mainly electrically. I would love to put an 03/04 Terminator engine with a T56, but I've read that's a different animal. What are your thoughts on putting a 2001 4V? Or (less preferably) a 2001 4.6L 2V?

find an all aluminum 4.6 2v and you'll have a lighter easier to work on powerplant that can make about the same power. (explorers and aviators have them i think).

you gotta move the whole earth to remove a valve cover with the engine in the bay in these things.