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Progress Thread 2004 Comp Orange GT

  • Thread starter Thread starter ctandc
  • Start date Start date Jun 26, 2023
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
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Jun 26, 2023
#1
  • Jun 26, 2023
  • #1
First off, I'm new to SN95 Mustangs, but not new to Mustangs or wrenching. I got rid of a '19 GT 6sp last year (bought it new, modded it some, drove it like it made me mad, dealer bought it outright, no trade, for MORE than I paid for it new with TTL etc) and was daily driving our '12 F150 (5.0). It was sucking the life out of me. Same dealer made a ridiculous offer on the F150 ('12 with only 80K - we bought it with 40K - it cost $300 to drive that truck 40K miles over 5 years) and away it went. So now I needed a daily driver, not to mention I have to get my wife's '84 GMC K1500 shortbox up and running again so I have a truck to use.

Around the same time, sold the '95 Bronco EB I went through for my son. Looking for something 'beaterish' for him since he'll be on the road and away from his car a bunch. Found a ridiculously clean '03 Mustang 3.8. Zero rust, paint literally could pass for a few years old. 150K. Everything is ALL original (except for the cut stock springs and Bullitt style wheels - yeah I'm putting springs, struts and shocks on it). Only thing it needs is a LH exhaust manifold (had a small crack - only on cold start it leaks for like 30 seconds). So I drove that to work a few times. For grins I searched FB marketplace for 5 speed GT's.

Found this in MD (I'm in VA). Owner had it for 15+ years.



I always loved this color. Anyway, this is a NY car. I have all the paperwork etc. The owner I bought it from (a guy in his 70s) bought it in '08 with 50K on it. The previous (original owner) had apparently done a bunch of mods - and from the blocked off oil line where he tapped the front of the oil pan, likely a Vortec Supercharger at one point. It only has some brand of mid length headers, Eibach Springs (can still read the part #), aftermarket shifter, Ford Performance pedals, after market mid pipe (no fwd cats - but does have aftermarket cats, into what looks like old school Flowmasters / cat back) and the Bullitt style wheels. I'm betting it had a clutch put in it too, since it has a firewall adjuster and aftermarket clutch quadrant.

Fun part - car (Carfax and titles confirm) shows 96K miles. That original owner? They added 4.10 gears. So my working theory is they bought it, did all the mods, got it tuned after the Vortech and the gears. When they sold it they removed everything the SC and the tune. Of course the gears stayed. When the PO bought it - it had 50K. He put 46K on it in 15+ years. Well not really - since he NEVER corrected the speedometer. 25% fast.

So actually the car has @ 85K miles on it. LOL. PO owner never planned to sell - medical issues forced him to (he can't drive). I did take him for one last ride in it when I bought it. His wife said that made his week.

Zero rot or rust. Body and interior is in GREAT SHAPE. Front and rear bumpers had the normal (from what I've seen) fading. Previous owner paid someone to try and repaint the rear bumper (no filler or previous damage I can find) and they obviously thought prep work was optional.

It's been stored inside or under a cover. No rot, no rust. Interior is mint. Clutch? Being used to the hydraulic S550 and forgetting my youth and driving small block and big block powered (mainly 60s GM A and F-Bodies LOL) cars with 4 speeds and stupid stiff clutches, I figured it was just me. Nope. Pedal is a bitch. That's I've adjusted the firewall adjuster some. Engagement all that is fine. No slip. Car runs and drives great - pulls like a stockish 4.6 should (not cold air intake, everything else but headers - engine seems untouched) No rattles, no noises I can hear, no leaks etc.

Took it to my buddy's shop to get it inspected (he's known me for years, we'll put it on the lift, go over it all, I'll make a list of stuff I need to do etc).

Both balljoints (OEM) were loose (boots ripped). So I replaced both (Moog), replaced one outer tie rod (waiting on the other to come in). Brake pads are Motorcraft that look new - but old enough the backing plates (glued) are coming off LOL. So I have some good ceramic pads and new rotors waiting in the shop. I found the receipt for the last oil change (Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend). I always like to start fresh - so I used some full synthetic 5w-20 (will likely go 5w-30 for simplicity sake with my wife's car - 2013 Camaro SS Ragtop) and a Motorcraft filter.

I'll get more pics as I tear into it. It's a fun daily. I know it's not fast. Hell, it's dead slow compared to my '19 GT - but it's really fun to drive. Hard to explain - especially with the 4.10s.

The only thing that didn't work was the AC. Found a receipt from like 5yrs ago where the PO paid to have it 'fixed' and charged. It was low on freon. I hit it with a can from the local parts store to hold me over until I get the gauges on it and check for the leak it obviously has somewhere. But ice cold AC made the wife much more open to riding with me LOL.

Adjustable Steeda clutch cable is on the way - since the Ford OEM is unobtanium (I can't see $200+ for a cable - maybe it's just me).

Another amusing thing about the car? I'm going to run a Marti report when I get a chance. It has EVERY factory option from '04 from what I can tell. Even the MACH 1000 sound system with the amp rack and pair of subs in the trunk. All untouched and all of them work. PO thought the owner before them installed it LOL.

So for now, I'm going to update the receiver with a double din w/ Carplay, address the clutch issue, get a MGW shifter ordered, switch out the fluid for AC Delco synchromesh, and then slowly go though everything while I drive it.

I don't plan on major 'power' mods (famous last words) - although I might order a JLT air intake for it. I have a coupon for them (direct) from a previous order. Likely new control arm bushings, Bilstein struts / shocks and maybe some poly bushings for the rack.

And of course pull both front and rear bumpers and get my buddy to scan the paint so I can prep them and paint them to match the rest of the car.

Creating this thread mainly for myself so I can keep track of all the stuff I'm likely to do to this thing.
 
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Y

Yel2002GTAuto

Active Member
Sep 26, 2022
233
26
38
Granit City, IL
Jul 12, 2023
#2
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #2
Sounds like a fun project....I was always partial to the Orange and zinc yellow colors....keep up the posts...if you want any ideas or suggestions ... check out some of my threads or reach out... I have a ton of experience with the 2v and all types of mods...

ED
 
C

ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Jul 12, 2023
#3
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #3
Yel2002GTAuto said:
Sounds like a fun project....I was always partial to the Orange and zinc yellow colors....keep up the posts...if you want any ideas or suggestions ... check out some of my threads or reach out... I have a ton of experience with the 2v and all types of mods...

ED
Click to expand...
Appreciate it. Honestly I've been contemplating building a PI 4.6 based stroker while I drive the car. That way I can look for deals on parts etc. I've been wrenching quite a while and had a few decently fast 1/4 mile cars - I really could care less about peak HP - I'd love to build something that's focuses on making more torque in the low to mid RPM range, under the curve, where I can enjoy everyday when I drive the car.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Jul 12, 2023
#4
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #4
Last week I got the new rotors and pads installed. Cleaned up the caliper mounts / greased the slide pins, bled / flushed the system. Seemed fine. A few days later the RF caliper essentially locked up. Let it cool down, nursed it home. Got it in the shop, not totally locked up but close. Wheel really didn't want to spin. Cracked the bleeder lose - wheel rotates fine. Tore the caliper apart:




The boots were torn up and one piston was totally seized in the bore. New calipers on the way. Able to buy new front hoses, rebuilt Raybestos calipers with brackets SHIPPED for less than the cost of two rebuilt no name calipers locally. I think I'm going to order (4) steel caliper pistons and a rebuild kit and stash them in the shop.



Calipers showed up a day early. Score one for Rock Auto. Hoses will be a day later. Went ahead and decided to install both calipers. Power bled the system, then bled the master cylinder. Yeah - so the extremely firm brake pedal with very little travel this car has had since I bought it? Not optimal. Much better.

Also got my MGW shifter installed. Love their shifters. Been driving three pedals most every day for 35+ years. Their shifters are the best I've ever used. The car had a '04-05 era short shifter in it. Now with the comfort handle on the MGW I can finally move the seat back and not have to feel like I'm reaching to shift. Forgot to get a pic - just wanted to get it installed.
 
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Y

Yel2002GTAuto

Active Member
Sep 26, 2022
233
26
38
Granit City, IL
Jul 12, 2023
#5
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #5
ctandc said:
Appreciate it. Honestly I've been contemplating building a PI 4.6 based stroker while I drive the car. That way I can look for deals on parts etc. I've been wrenching quite a while and had a few decently fast 1/4 mile cars - I really could care less about peak HP - I'd love to build something that's focuses on making more torque in the low to mid RPM range, under the curve, where I can enjoy everyday when I drive the car.
Click to expand...
If you want a good tq curve the chech out Mudular Head Shop site...they have a stroker kit for 3700.00 balanced and ready to go...with ported pi heads you should pick up a ton of tq...and a decent bump in power to.....or just get some TFS heads....those will pick up a ton of power and way more mid and top end tq...thing like 60 to 80tq and 30 to 40hp past 5600 rpm to 6500...right in the usable power range...

Ed
 
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Y

Yel2002GTAuto

Active Member
Sep 26, 2022
233
26
38
Granit City, IL
Jul 12, 2023
#6
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #6
I just added the red painted power stop rotors to my car....I use stock gt for rears and 98 cobra calipers with the larger rotors for front...night and day difference compared to stock... I would recommend to chech bleading the brakes at least 2 times after you drive...sometimes it's hard to get all air bubbles out...which could cause lockup...
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jul 12, 2023
#7
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #7
Those front calipers are notorious for locking up. Even fresh remans out of the box are prone to it. The issue is that when they sit for a long period of time with moisture laiden brake fluid, it pits the hell out of the cylinder walls and the pistons seize.

I actually recommend anyone buying a set of those in reman to pop the pistons out for inspection first...or upgrade to the 13" cobra brakes.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Jul 12, 2023
#8
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #8
Yel2002GTAuto said:
I just added the red painted power stop rotors to my car....I use stock gt for rears and 98 cobra calipers with the larger rotors for front...night and day difference compared to stock... I would recommend to chech bleading the brakes at least 2 times after you drive...sometimes it's hard to get all air bubbles out...which could cause lockup...
Click to expand...

I used a pressure bleeder hooked up the air compressor. Pedal is much better.
 
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C

ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Jul 12, 2023
#9
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
Those front calipers are notorious for locking up. Even fresh remans out of the box are prone to it. The issue is that when they sit for a long period of time with moisture laiden brake fluid, it pits the hell out of the cylinder walls and the pistons seize.

I actually recommend anyone buying a set of those in reman to pop the pistons out for inspection first...or upgrade to the 13" cobra brakes.
Click to expand...

These aren't the only ones. A lot of caliper with phenolic pistons are prone to this. Why? Because auto makers want the car to get past the factory warranty period for the average driver. Steel pistons can rust, since brake fluid loves to suck up moisture - and how many people actual flush / change brake fluid? So the plastic (technically they aren't plastic I get it) are cheaper, lighter, and they don't transfer as much heat to the fluid and they don't rust. Problem is is any trash gets in the fluid? Steel will crush / grind dirt / grit - phenolic pistons not so much.

Fun fact - the walls in the original calipers? Zero corrosion. The pistons literally were literally swelled in a couple of spots.

You can get replacement steel pistons - I plan on stashing a set with a rebuild kit.

I may look at upgrading brakes in the future - but I'd likely look at making the 4 piston S550 base GT brakes work - or even the Caddy Brembo swap. Good rotors, bedded in good ceramic pads - even with original rear rotors / pads / calipers - thing stops great right now.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Jul 12, 2023
#10
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
Those front calipers are notorious for locking up. Even fresh remans out of the box are prone to it. The issue is that when they sit for a long period of time with moisture laiden brake fluid, it pits the hell out of the cylinder walls and the pistons seize.

I actually recommend anyone buying a set of those in reman to pop the pistons out for inspection first...or upgrade to the 13" cobra brakes.
Click to expand...

That's why I stick with Raybestos higher line rebuilds for brake hydraulics. Never gotten a bad one yet.
 
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G

Gordon24

Member
Aug 19, 2024
5
7
13
New york
Aug 19, 2024
#11
  • Aug 19, 2024
  • #11
There is a very strong chance that I am the original owner of this car.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Apr 23, 2025
#12
  • Apr 23, 2025
  • #12
Gordon24 said:
There is a very strong chance that I am the original owner of this car.
Click to expand...
I got your DM - confirmed that is the car. Haven't logged on here in forever - I messaged you back, hopefully you see this. Thanks!
 
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Gordon24

Member
Aug 19, 2024
5
7
13
New york
Apr 23, 2025
#13
  • Apr 23, 2025
  • #13
August 2007
 
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Gordon24

Member
Aug 19, 2024
5
7
13
New york
Apr 23, 2025
#14
  • Apr 23, 2025
  • #14
Had these Halibrands on it when I sold it.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Apr 23, 2025
#15
  • Apr 23, 2025
  • #15
Nice
 

stormsedge

5 Year Member
Jun 17, 2018
429
175
63
Here
Apr 24, 2025
#16
  • Apr 24, 2025
  • #16
Good looking car!
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
Apr 24, 2025
#17
  • Apr 24, 2025
  • #17
Yeah I never updated this thread I guess.

I repainted both bumpers, ended up replacing both lower front control arms (bushings were shot), struts, shocks, installed BMR springs (rides great). Replaced the Steeda shifter with a MGW. Replaced the hazed / worn headlights. Even did a quickie compound on the OEM paint and added a CarPlay compatible double-din stereo.









 
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Gordon24

Member
Aug 19, 2024
5
7
13
New york
Apr 25, 2025
#18
  • Apr 25, 2025
  • #18
Very impressive job on the bumpers! Car looks great hope you enjoy every ride.
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
May 30, 2025
#19
  • May 30, 2025
  • #19
The headers on this car are the Bassani mid length and they've been on the car for close to, if not 20 years at this point. The original ceramic coating is showing some surface rust. I was under the car changing the oil the other day, and since I get a random P0420 code (clear it and most times it doesn't come back for days) odds are the cats in the Bassani mid pipe are just tired, I planned on welding in some replacement cats. I'm keeping the exhaust - the car sounds great. No drone at all.

Anyway, there are also a couple small areas of surface rust up on the chassis I'd like to clean up as well, so I'm likely going to drop the K Member out of the car so I can get easy access to the headers. I want to take them off, clean them up and coat them. Probably do the same for the mid pipe as well when I weld in new converters. I have no desire to install a tubular k member.

Since the outer / inner tie rods / low ball joints and lower control arms are all new, replaced by me, not to mention the struts and springs - it seems to me I could simply detach the strut and outer tie rod from the knuckle, keep the knuckle and control arm attached to the k member and just drop the entire thing out.

Any reason why not?

I wouldn't mind cleaning up the k member / knuckles why'll they're out and painting them as well. And since I'd be this deep I'd likely go ahead and throw a new oil pan gasket on - and new oil pan (old one was plumbed for the supercharger that used to on this engine).
 
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ctandc

5 Year Member
Oct 28, 2017
71
57
28
May 30, 2025
#20
  • May 30, 2025
  • #20
Here's the extent of the rust on this car - it's just surface, but being able to clean all that out / treat it / prime and paint would be nice.

 
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