2004 Mustang won't start

Snyderbj · Jun 3, 2018

I have replaced the neutral safety switch and ignition switch. My car was running just fine. Driving down freeway and my clutch quadrant comes off shaft (Lost the retaining clip). I have put it back together. My car won't start. Does anyone know what I can check next or why this happened when the car was running before the clutch cable quadrant came apart.

wmburns · Jun 3, 2018

If looking for an educated guess, when the clutch pedal fell off the Clutch position switch grounded out and blew a fuse.

Start by confirming power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the key in the "crank" position. Where to go next depends upon this test result.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

This is a pet peeve of mine. To avoid confusion isn't your symptom actually a "no crank" problem?

Snyderbj · Jun 3, 2018

wmburns said:
If looking for an educated guess, when the clutch pedal fell off the Clutch position switch grounded out and blew a fuse.

Start by confirming power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the key in the "crank" position. Where to go next depends upon this test result.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

This is a pet peeve of my. To avoid confusion isn't your symptom actually a "no crank" problem?

Yes, it is a no crank, no anything when I turn the key on except for hearing the fuel pump and radio functioning. The clutch pedal did not come off. Only the cable quadrant at the other end. This is what is so baffling about the whole mess. The engine and car were functioning fine until the quadrant came off the end of its shaft. The retaining clip apparently fell out earlier. I have the quadrant back together and the clutch feels like it is pushing in normal. Is there an adjustment on where the quadrant meets that other gear-type piece that adjusts the position of the clutch cable? I have checked the fuses and relays and all appear to be good. There has to be a simple solution but I cannot find it yet. Thank you for your help.

wmburns · Jun 3, 2018

Please note that I'm not asking "have you checked the fuses". I'm asking for a more detailed test that confirms much more than if a fuse is blown or not.

Confirm power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the ignition switch in the "crank" position.

Another option is to confirm +12 volts in and out of the clutch position switch with the pedal depressed and the key in the crank position.

Snyderbj · Jun 3, 2018

wmburns said:
Please note that I'm not asking "have you checked the fuses". I'm asking for a more detailed test that confirms much more than if a fuse is blown or not.

Confirm power in and out of fuse F2.6 with the ignition switch in the "crank" position.

Another option is to confirm +12 volts in and out of the clutch position switch with the pedal depressed and the key in the crank position.

I did not understand that. I don't have a meter so I will try to find one. I installed another new ignition switch and still nothing. I can hear the relay in engine compartment click open when I turn the key to crank. I think I will try to replace the neutral safety switch again. When the quadrant came off I might have overcompressed that switch.

wmburns · Jun 4, 2018

Snyderbj said:
I can hear the relay in engine compartment click open when I turn the key to crank.

^^important information. IF you can hear the starter relay click when the ignition switch is turned to "crank", THEN the pilot duty part of the NSS circuit is complete. The problem is on the load side of the starter relay. Perhaps even a bad starter relay.

Pull the starter relay and confirm +12 volts in pin #30 (LG/VT) wire. If no power then the BJB Ignition fuse is blow or there's a wiring fault in the BJB.

Next confirm +12 volts in pin #85 (WH/PK) with the key in the "crank" position. Always use a KNOWN good ground. If no power then there is a problem in the pilot duty part of the NSS. Double check your work.

Next jump pin #30 (LG/VT) and #87 (BN/PK). This should engage the starter. So be sure the wheels are blocked and the transmission is in neutral.

A budget volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) is not very expensive. As with most any tool once purchased is yours to use forever. I suspect the cost of the VOM could easily be paid for with the savings from not replacing good parts. Resist the urge to fix by "replacing parts". Test more.

Snyderbj · Jun 9, 2018

I was reading these messages again. The clutch pedal did not come off. The quadrant came off the other end and the clutch cable was just dangling when I finally got the car stopped and looked under the dash to see what happened. I don't think the car knows it is in neutral, but I don't know what to do to change that yet.

wmburns · Jun 10, 2018

Snyderbj said:
I don't think the car knows it is in neutral

Don't over think this. A manual Mustang does NOT have a neutral safety switch. Instead it uses a clutch pedal position switch. Your car never "knew" what gear the transmission was in. Instead relying on the clutch pedal to be fully depressed before allowing the motor to be cranked.

You stated that the starter relay clicks when the key is turned to "crank". If this is true then the pilot duty part of the neutral safety circuit is WORKING and there's another reason that the starter isn't engaging. The tests given will pinpoint the problem regardless of where it is.

You did confirm fuse F1.3 in the engine bay is good right?

You did check the battery ground and the grounds around the radiator core support right?

You did check that the starter actually works by manually jumping the starter solenoid right?

2004 Mustang won't start

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