Hi everyone. I'm looking to see what others paid on the same or similar setup I'm looking at. I'm looking to purchase the 2013 GT, 300A, auto, with Brembos, in Grabber Blue. I'm being quoted 32k and change out the door. I'm in southern california.
Need more information. What is the sticker on the car (I'm assuming its roughly $34K given your equipment list). And what is the dealer's price before tax, title, license, and other fees. That number will make a comparison easier, since everything that gets added on after can vary quite a bit from state to state.
Mine's a 2011. I got it for $100 over invoice. No reason you shouldn't be able to get a similar deal on a 2013.
Go to truecar.com and put in your car and all your options. It will tell you the invoice price as well as what others are paying in your area for a similar car. Take the invoice price (a quick check given the options you listed puts it at about $31,937 in my area, though with different regional ad fees, it could be different in your part of the country). Find out what the factory incentives are in your area, and subtract them from the invoice price. Then use that number as a base. The pre-tax and fee number should be very close to it. Make it your counter-offer if their number is much higher. A really motivated to sell dealer may even chip into their holdback and go slightly lower, though don't hold your breath on that, particularly if you don't have a trade-in.
Thanks. I'm in the right area, it looks like. On TrueCar, I can't tell whether the prices shown are the pre-tax/title/etc or the total out the door cost. Would you happen to know?
Thanks. I'm in the right area, it looks like. On TrueCar, I can't tell whether the prices shown are the pre-tax/title/etc or the total out the door cost. Would you happen to know?
I'm pretty sure all the numbers on truecar do NOT include tax, title, etc. It is the dealer's selling price. As you said in the first post, the dealer is giving you an "out the door" price that includes everything. To get the dealer's selling price, look at the specifics in the paper work/sales contract. In it, everything should be itemized. The dealer's selling price will be on there. Then the tax, title, license, and other fees will all be itemized and everything added up to get to the out the door number.
Always review every itemized number. Dealers love to try to just give you just a single out the door number, or a single monthly payment number and nothing else, because it is easier to hide what you are actually paying for the car if you don't actually see all the numbers. This particular deal may turn out to be a good one, but the only way to confirm that for sure is to take the time to check all the numbers.
The one thing to remember with truecar is that the "invoice" price they list does NOT take any factory incentives into account, but the average price paid number they list does take into account those incentives. So when I say use invoice price as a base, what I mean is "invoice" listed in truecar minus the factory incentives. The number after you additionally take out the factory incentives is what you want to use to compare to dealer's selling price.
Again, I'd shoot for invoice (minus incentives, don't forget) or something very close to it, not average paid. For most cars, average paid being half way between invoice and MSRP just means half the buyers knew how to deal and half didn't. Be the wiser half. As long as it isn't a hot seller with allotment constraints, most dealers will take invoice or very close to it if you push a little.
The holdback on these cars is somewhere around $900, so even at invoice, the dealer is still making the holdback. That's what that "dealer cost" is about on the graph. That is what the dealer actually has in the car. It is the invoice, minus incentives, minus the holdback.