$2500 to spend,so many choices

[steede302]

Alright, finally got my savings up to 2500, time to blow it on the stang.
Keep in mind that this car is a daily driver, Im not looking for the best of the best, just parts that allow me to continue to enjoy my stang.


Need a little help in my choices

exhaust:
Im going to do shorty headers and a new h-pipe
choices are bbk or mac, only about a 60$ difference between the two, but is the bbk worth the additional over the mac? Pro's and cons for each?

suspension:
thinking of going tokico hp's with there 1.2 lowering springs or kyb's and fms b-springs. About a $120 dollar difference between the two combos. Pro's and cons of each.

BBK urethane bushing kit for the suspension
fms aluminum driveshaft( u-joints are bad in mine, good time to upgrade)

Its time for a clutch, so im thinking Ram or centerforce, just a little better than stock. I heard people who love fms king cobra, but the two cars ive driven that had that clutch, I dam near needed two feet to push the clutch in.( might have been some other problem causing that. Alot of people recommend centerforce d/f, but I think thats alot more clutch than my stocker needs, and I can spend the extra money saved on other items.

With the new clutch, time to put a short shifter in. BBK, B&M,STEEDA,PRO 5.0, these are only seperated by about 10-15 dollars in price. Need help choosing which one.

Since I'm doing springs, I might as well change the rear lca's, dont want to spend a fortune, and since its pretty much just a daily driver, I'm thinking I can get by with mac or something like that, dont think I need steeda or MM or anything like that.

subframe connectors.........any recomendations


When this stuff is done, its time for paint, but I need to see if theres any money left.

All the labor is going to be done by myself and friend of mine. piece of cake.

Thanks all in advance for there help and support.

 

[Zero_chance]

Are you going hi flow H or off road H? I have a BBK o/r H hooked up to my MAC exhaust with stock headers. Wasnt too impressed with the BBK fitment and I did it at my shop with the car on a lift so I think it was in the design itself. My MAC exhaust I was impressed with the fitment. Dont have their H but if its done as good as the rest of their exhaust, Im sure you couldnt go wrong.

As far as the king cobra being harder than stock, technically it shouldnt be. I had one in my old car and it was slightly easier. Its designed to be. Usually the problem is the stock bearing retainers junk and it makes it hard to move the TO bearing across its surface. You might want to upgrade that to the steel one if you havent already.
As far as shifters go, Ive used a Steeda and a Hurst before in my other cars. Since Hurst isnt on your list, Ill think youll like the Steeda one. 2-3 is nice and smooth.

 

[Car Nut]

Exhaust: People seem to be happy overall with MAC and its inexpensive.

Suspension: You can't go wrong with LCAs, FRPP UCAs, new rubber UCA diff bushings, springs, shocks/struts (the Bullitt kit would cover sways too).

Bushings: the more you replace, the better. Just don't put poly bushings in the upper UCAs.

Subs: Absolutely. Weld-in subs only. MM makes a long sub that is popular. Whatever you get, make sure it has the cross brace.


Possible parts list (you can look up prices):

MAC shorty headers
MAC H-pipe
FRPP UCAs
UCA diff bushings
RLCAs (MM ones for $238 or others for $170. Might be worth getting the MM ones)
Bullitt Kit (springs, shocks, struts, swaybars for $500)
Bushing kit
Subs ($100)

With the stuff above, you should have money left over for sure for the clutch and other parts.

 

[Black Stampede]

Alright, finally got my savings up to 2500, time to blow it on the stang.
Keep in mind that this car is a daily driver, Im not looking for the best of the best, just parts that allow me to continue to enjoy my stang.


Need a little help in my choices

exhaust:
Im going to do shorty headers and a new h-pipe
choices are bbk or mac, only about a 60$ difference between the two, but is the bbk worth the additional over the mac? Pro's and cons for each?

suspension:
thinking of going tokico hp's with there 1.2 lowering springs or kyb's and fms b-springs. About a $120 dollar difference between the two combos. Pro's and cons of each.

BBK urethane bushing kit for the suspension
fms aluminum driveshaft( u-joints are bad in mine, good time to upgrade)

Its time for a clutch, so im thinking Ram or centerforce, just a little better than stock. I heard people who love fms king cobra, but the two cars ive driven that had that clutch, I dam near needed two feet to push the clutch in.( might have been some other problem causing that. Alot of people recommend centerforce d/f, but I think thats alot more clutch than my stocker needs, and I can spend the extra money saved on other items.

With the new clutch, time to put a short shifter in. BBK, B&M,STEEDA,PRO 5.0, these are only seperated by about 10-15 dollars in price. Need help choosing which one.

Since I'm doing springs, I might as well change the rear lca's, dont want to spend a fortune, and since its pretty much just a daily driver, I'm thinking I can get by with mac or something like that, dont think I need steeda or MM or anything like that.

subframe connectors.........any recomendations


When this stuff is done, its time for paint, but I need to see if theres any money left.

All the labor is going to be done by myself and friend of mine. piece of cake.

Thanks all in advance for there help and support.

Exhaust I would get the bbk headers and the mac h hands down. Mac headers tubes are not connected and some people say they will get warped when heated and wont go back on with ease sometimes. Just something I have heard no personal experience. What I do know is I have had bbk headers and they are nice. As for the h-pipe get the back. It is a good piece and like 110 bucks. Cant go wrong.

Suspension go with the fms c-springs, and the KYBs. No reason to spend the money on tokicos.

Centerforces are nice clutches but you definitely pay for them. For the price, on a mild car I dont think you can go wrong with a king cobra. Mine and my friends I have driven are both stock firmness so idk.
Shifter go for the steeda tri-ax. Idk, i love mine.

Subframes, whatever name brand is cheap and weld in.

 

[94fordmustanggt]

Exhaust: People seem to be happy overall with MAC and its inexpensive.

Suspension: You can't go wrong with LCAs, FRPP UCAs, new rubber UCA diff bushings, springs, shocks/struts (the Bullitt kit would cover sways too).

Bushings: the more you replace, the better. Just don't put poly bushings in the upper UCAs.

Subs: Absolutely. Weld-in subs only. MM makes a long sub that is popular. Whatever you get, make sure it has the cross brace.


Possible parts list (you can look up prices):

MAC shorty headers
MAC H-pipe
FRPP UCAs
UCA diff bushings
RLCAs (MM ones for $238 or others for $170. Might be worth getting the MM ones)
Bullitt Kit (springs, shocks, struts, swaybars for $500)
Bushing kit
Subs ($100)

With the stuff above, you should have money left over for sure for the clutch and other parts.

Why not poly bushings in the UCA's? I've never had any problem with mine. Mine eats up the LCA bushings I have the Blue Oval Industries uppers and lowers, which I was told that the same company makes theirs and MAC's. I've replaced 2 sets of bushings in the last 2 years, so I wouldn't really recommend them.
I have a Pro 5.0 shifter and I'm happy with it, but can't really compare it to any of the other ones. I bought it used out of a drag car for $50 and never had a problem with it.
I have a fms king cobra clutch and it's easy to push in. When I got it put in I had the place put in an adjustable quadrant at the same time and it was hard as hell to push in. After I kept breaking clutch cables I found out that they hadn't installed it correctly. Once the quadrant was in right the clutch was fine.

 

[buddyf87]

i went through 2 exhaust set ups, first was bbk shorties and bbk o/r h. fitment was horrible and it was constantly leaking. finally sold both for mac longtubes and o/r h, havent had a single leak since i put them on almost 2 years ago. i would never buy bbk exhaust (or probably any) parts again. if you look around on the classifieds you can find some good deals for longtubes, i got my headers and h pipe for $250 shipped. they will be harder to put on, but with something that relatively simple i would go for the best so you wont be wasting money replacing parts down the road. just my $.02

 

[steede302]

Suspension go with the fms c-springs, and the KYBs. No reason to spend the money on tokicos.

I can get the tokico's hp kit for $400 shipped, kyb's and c-springs are around $380, I think it will be worth the extra 20$ for the tokicos


Thanks guys for all the advice, keep it coming

 

[final5-0]

I'm not trying to bring you down on your choice of mods here
but
You talk about a lot of mods in many different categories
so
I'll focus on just one ... Making more power

If shortys and a mid pipe is all you're gonna do at this time

Those two things are not gonna make significant difference
and
If the truth be told .........

Getting rid of the stock 4 cat mid pipe is gonna give MUCH more gain
than those shorty headers

Now if you are like most ... sound is important to you
so
You can get all the sound you can stand with a mid pipe and catback :Word:

Honestly ... at this time ... I think the headers are not all that good of
a value ... considering all the other things you have listed and I'd have
to guess they are of more importance to you than making power

Bottom Line ... On a stocker ... Shortys are not gonna give you a gain
that you will feel and if you do ... I can assure you ... it will be subtle

Plainly Put ... Exhaust mods on a stocker ... They ain't big gain mods

Good Luck with your plans

Grady

 

[Car Nut]

Why not poly bushings in the UCA's? I've never had any problem with mine. Mine eats up the LCA bushings I have the Blue Oval Industries uppers and lowers, which I was told that the same company makes theirs and MAC's. I've replaced 2 sets of bushings in the last 2 years, so I wouldn't really recommend them.

MM and a couple other companies recommend keeping the rubber bushings in the diff side of the UCAs. Some, like FRPP I believe, use a firmer bushing in the lower side of the UCA. Why? When cornering hard, especially near the limit, rubber bushings will allow the uppers to move the amount they need without binding. Poly bushings will bind and prevent the arms from moving as needed. In normal driving, there is probably no difference at all, except for a possible slightly firmer ride with the poly bushings (maybe not noticeable at all).

The overall cost should be about the same too. I think the FRPP UCAs, if I remember, are priced really well.

Like you've seen, it's not like you have a crap suspension because you went poly on the UCAs instead of rubber.

Thanks for the info on the LCAs. That's interesting. I wonder how long my MM bushings will last. Hopefully a good while.

 

[steede302]

I'm not trying to bring you down on your choice of mods here
but
You talk about a lot of mods in many different categories
so
I'll focus on just one ... Making more power

If shortys and a mid pipe is all you're gonna do at this time

Those two things are not gonna make significant difference
and
If the truth be told .........

Getting rid of the stock 4 cat mid pipe is gonna give MUCH more gain
than those shorty headers

Now if you are like most ... sound is important to you
so
You can get all the sound you can stand with a mid pipe and catback :Word:

Honestly ... at this time ... I think the headers are not all that good of
a value ... considering all the other things you have listed and I'd have
to guess they are of more importance to you than making power

Bottom Line ... On a stocker ... Shortys are not gonna give you a gain
that you will feel and if you do ... I can assure you ... it will be subtle

Plainly Put ... Exhaust mods on a stocker ... They ain't big gain mods

Good Luck with your plans

Grady

Not bringing me down at all Grady, I post to get as much feedback as possible. I take all advice and ideas. I am aware that the headers wont give me much gain, Im doin the headers pretty much just for a better look under the hood, fairly cheap mod, and they may help me a little later on when I start the motor mods.
Can you recommend an affordable rlca.

 

[94fordmustanggt]

MM and a couple other companies recommend keeping the rubber bushings in the diff side of the UCAs. Some, like FRPP I believe, use a firmer bushing in the lower side of the UCA. Why? When cornering hard, especially near the limit, rubber bushings will allow the uppers to move the amount they need without binding. Poly bushings will bind and prevent the arms from moving as needed. In normal driving, there is probably no difference at all, except for a possible slightly firmer ride with the poly bushings (maybe not noticeable at all).

The overall cost should be about the same too. I think the FRPP UCAs, if I remember, are priced really well.

Like you've seen, it's not like you have a crap suspension because you went poly on the UCAs instead of rubber.

Thanks for the info on the LCAs. That's interesting. I wonder how long my MM bushings will last. Hopefully a good while.

I hope so! They're not fun to replace. I'm going to have the subframe checked to make sure it's straight, check torque boxes, and if everything's good then I'm getting rid of those control arms and buying better ones. I want to get a new rear end anyway. I would really just as soon have rubber bushings, I know they last longer. The car is my dd, so I'm not really putting money in it for the most performance. I have other cars for that

 

[final5-0]

Not bringing me down at all Grady, I post to get as much feedback as possible. I take all advice and ideas. I am aware that the headers wont give me much gain, Im doin the headers pretty much just for a better look under the hood, fairly cheap mod, and they may help me a little later on when I start the motor mods.
Can you recommend an affordable rlca.

Well

You now say you are gonna do more motor mods later on
so
That changes things and I just gotta say ........

Its hard to do
but
You'll be better off in the long run if you look far ahead with your plans

I'll share with you about headers and all that goes with them

Shortys are to a NA combo about what a Screen Door is to a Submarine

Can you see I'm a tryin to say ... They ain't all that effective

I'd not tell my worst enemy to use shortys on a NA combo

A while back several members here did some measuring
and
It seemed that LT's hang no lower below the floor pan than shorty stuff
so
The common thinking of them hanging too low is not all that accurate

I know ... I know ... It surprised me as well
but
We all used the same common points to measure from

anyway ........

I won't go into all the technical stuff
I'll just say that the longer tubes and the collectors you have on LT's
They give you a benefit that is called scavenging

Thats a fancy word for one exhaust pulse helps draw out the next
and
You just can get that benefit from a Shorty Header

Don't let anyone kid you
On a NA combo ... it is a difference that can be felt :Word:
and
Without a doubt ... the difference can be seen on a set of dyno curves

You'll see gains mostly down low and at mid range
The peak power made by both designs will be about the same

Sooooooo

Just letting you know before you buy a specific mid pipe and
might possibly realize later on you should'a run different headers
but you're already committed with the wrong mid pipe.

See there my friend
Just a little example of how ............

Thinking long term can help you keep more dollars in your pocket

Grady

 

[Sirone]

Only thing I would change is the headers, def go L/T BBK.

 

[steede302]

Another good point grady, while we are on the subject, future upgrades include new shortblock, h/c/i/ and 8-12 psi boost. Is the decision still the same on long tube over short tube? is there a noticable difference between the two when boosted?

Thanks

 

[final5-0]

Another good point grady, while we are on the subject, future upgrades include new shortblock, h/c/i/ and 8-12 psi boost. Is the decision still the same on long tube over short tube? is there a noticable difference between the two when boosted?

Thanks

Well ... I guess you should say .........
LT's would not hurt you if move over from NA to PA

But

I also gotta say ........

A bit of practicality
and
Good Ole Common Horse Sense needs to be considered
now that you said that

Honestly ... as I have become to see things these days

The differences between NA and PA are more and more different than I
realized or considered in the past

You just can't get past the fact that you cram in the mixture with PA

When talking NA ... You really do focus on making everything as efficient
as possible to take advantage of the only pressure at your disposal which
is of course ... supplied by Mother Nature

Having said all that ... We really do open up a can of worms real quick

You do everything that is best for a NA combo
and
You then find some of that stuff is detrimental for a PA combo
and
Its obvious to all compression is one of the biggies ... but there are more

I've thought along these lines for the past several years now more times
than you would ever realize

The only thing that makes the most sense to me is to decide right off the
bat what your final plans are. NA or PA

Say you go NA first ... then ... Decide to go PA

You might find yourself stuck with stuff that is bad for PA like ....

heads that supply too much compression
cam with too much duration

Of course ... specific application needs to be considered as well

LT's will prop up the low and mid range
but
If one was gonna go with a KB

They certainly don't have any deficiency down low or at mid range

I don't have all the answers that is for sure
but
I'd say knowing you were gonna go blown eventually

I'd have to say the LT's would not be as critical in the long run

Just some random thoughts
so
I don't know it they helped or even made any sense

To me it A L W A Y S boils down to the specific person and their
competency of mechanical things when talking about doing a
blown combo for the street and to a some what lesser extent ...
are we talking about a Stang that has to be available every day for
basic transportation :Word:

I gotta say for me ........

I've come to see these days ... all the more and more .....
The advantages of blower or turbo on a stock block
and
If I was to start from scratch again

I'd consider doing a blower or turbo first
because
I do have the good fortune of .......

being comfortable doing my own work ... PA combos can be finicky :Word:
being in a position of not needing my car each and every day
being able to afford and have an appointment with a Tuner ... I trust

Grady

 

[Juggalo95]

I wish I could help specificaly but I have used those companies products on a lot of other vehicles..For suspension Ive owned Tokicko Ilumna(5ways) and Kyb struts before....Tokicko was better. Kyb wasnt bad either.

As for paint I doubt youll have much left over for a decent paint job. Figure your $2500 to respray you car with out jambs but still fixing small dings dents,de chip hood,bumper etc.

 

[steede302]

I plan to paint it myself, I used to do that for a living, gonna run around 500 in materials.

 

[BlackVert]

i will have my BBK rear LCAs off the car in a month or so ... if you want them, i'll sell them cheap. let me know

 

[Pokageek]

I'd just HAVE to do the gears and go with 3.73's. I have had stock, then went 306and now 414c.i. The headers will do absolutely 0 on a stock car or even with a cam in my o. That's $200+ that can go to something else. Long tubes would SOUND awesome tho.