Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body - some window trim work!

Looks like it hits the intake tubing.

I would cut the crossbar, weld it up clean and grind it smooth and then powdercoat the bar and install it like that. I seem to remember Jack Hidley saying that the biggest flex they saw was under hard braking and that's where the bar helped the most. The towers will want to flex foward under braking so that will at least triangulate them to the pinch weld.

No idea how nice it would look though. I admit...i like the appearance of my bar.
Wrinkle paint FTMFW! :spot:
 
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Not to hijack this thread but when you have a Maximum motorsports strut brace is it possible to remove your distributor? I think if the cap came off and maybe the intermediate plastic part maybe it would? Not sure if someone else has done this before? Thank you for any input!
 
So after some yard work and some other things today, I just took the car for a cruise. My usual no traffic route had me sitting in road work traffic, so that didn’t work out as planned…… but anyway….. now my fuel gauge is pinned full to the right. Before it was slowly moving left as a tank emptied, but not nearly how it should.
I’m wondering if my Rock Auto sender I put in a year or so ago has failed me??
Right now I’ll just keep track on my trip meter til I decide when I wan to drop the tank again! Always something.
 
So after some yard work and some other things today, I just took the car for a cruise. My usual no traffic route had me sitting in road work traffic, so that didn’t work out as planned…… but anyway….. now my fuel gauge is pinned full to the right. Before it was slowly moving left as a tank emptied, but not nearly how it should.
I’m wondering if my Rock Auto sender I put in a year or so ago has failed me??
Right now I’ll just keep track on my trip meter til I decide when I wan to drop the tank again! Always something.
Was it hot? On my 91 if it's hot out my gauge will peg full, once it cools down or I shut the car off for the night in the morning it will be fine again,I'm 90% it's my slosh module acting up,just a hunch.

If your needle pegs all the way to full and it doesn't come down you have lost your float,I went thru 3 sending units, one from Mustangs Unlimited and 2 from LMR and all 3 floats disintegrated, had to drop my tank and clean it really good,bought a Spectra brand from AutoZone 5 years ago and never had that problem again.

The problem I'm having now that I mentioned it's my slosh module I think but once the weather cools down the sending unit works like a charm again,what Ive been doing till I get it fixed is when I first turn on my car I see where I'm at and put fuel in accordingly.
 
Was it hot? On my 91 if it's hot out my gauge will peg full, once it cools down or I shut the car off for the night in the morning it will be fine again,I'm 90% it's my slosh module acting up,just a hunch.

If your needle pegs all the way to full and it doesn't come down you have lost your float,I went thru 3 sending units, one from Mustangs Unlimited and 2 from LMR and all 3 floats disintegrated, had to drop my tank and clean it really good,bought a Spectra brand from AutoZone 5 years ago and never had that problem again.

The problem I'm having now that I mentioned it's my slosh module I think but once the weather cools down the sending unit works like a charm again,what Ive been doing till I get it fixed is when I first turn on my car I see where I'm at and put fuel in accordingly.
Nah……. Mid 60’s at best today, so don’t think it’s the heat.
After the winter it was staying past full, but still coming down slightly. Now it’s just pegged to the right, so I’m pretty sure it’s something with the float. I left it with a full tank, and Stabile added too.:mad:
 
Nah……. Mid 60’s at best today, so don’t think it’s the heat.
After the winter it was staying past full, but still coming down slightly. Now it’s just pegged to the right, so I’m pretty sure it’s something with the float. I left it with a full tank, and Stabile added too.:mad:
Yeah definitely not what's happening in my case,I hope you get it figured out, I hate problems with fuel gauges, you kinda need to know what you have in that receptacle.
 
On a positive note, the MM brace is here, and on initial fitment, it looks like I’ll just have to tweak the brake lines a little, maybe adjust the harness under the pinch weld, and it should be good to go.
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Edit: When I say there’s always something, there’s always something. One large locknut is missing, so Ace Hardware here we come!
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On a positive note, the MM brace is here, and on initial fitment, it looks like I’ll just have to tweak the brake lines a little, maybe adjust the harness under the pinch weld, and it should be good to go.
B6D53E4A-2FE4-47C7-A40C-F8F91C121921.jpeg
Man that engine bay looks gorgeous, yeah when I put mine on I had to tweak a few things, where it bolts to the pinch weld on the driver's side it's reaaally close to my brake line so I put a little piece of this stuff we use at my work called Fabreka, it's like hardcore rubber just in case that bar was gonna flex and rub against the line, I'm sure just about anything would work.

Those strut tower braces sure are worth it specially on a vert,I have a 89 and a 91, my 92 is the convertible, when I installed my new engine back in November and I pulled my brace off those pinch welds looked like they had gone thru hell flexing.
 
Strut tower brace mounted and secure. I’m liking how it looks with the rest of my engine bay. Fits right in!
Used a split silicone vacuum line behind the left pinch weld mount for the brake line protection. The right side had those “springs” wrapped around in just the right place, so I think they’ll be ok.
106EF7C3-B769-4DE6-8D30-BFC47474DBF9.jpeg
 
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Strut tower brace mounted and secure. I’m liking how it looks with the rest of my engine bay. Fits right in!
Used a split silicone vacuum line behind the left pinch weld mount for the brake line protection. The right side had those “springs” wrapped around in just the right place, so I think they’ll be ok.
106EF7C3-B769-4DE6-8D30-BFC47474DBF9.jpeg
Looks really nice man,love that red on the intake and the flag motif on the plaque, super cool, I have a Explorer intake on mine and I tried to do a flag once on tht plaque but the colors ran into each other because of the way it's made and it didn't look good.
 
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Looks really nice man,love that red on the intake and the flag motif on the plaque, super cool, I have a Explorer intake on mine and I tried to do a flag once on tht plaque but the colors ran into each other because of the way it's made and it didn't look good.
Thanks man! That flag on the plaque was one of the first things I painted when I started on this car, and is still my favorite piece!
I have an Explorer intake on the shelf, and if I ever get it onto the car, that flag will be switching over to stay on the car for sure!
 
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I don’t know if it’s just me or not, but I just took the car for a ride for first time after the strut brace, and it definitely feels much “tighter” and the steering more responsive. More connected to the road is best I can explain it.
 
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They are a good investment in my opinion, I put one in my convertible and I had to take it off when I put my new engine back in November and I could tell on the pinchwelds where it had been exerting pressure tying the car together,I should have put one on years ago, something that I don't have and I need to get are Caster and camber plates, my tire guy told me he can't get the car aligned 100% anymore until I get those put on .

I'm guessing there is a way to put those on and get it close enough to make it to the tire shop? I don't like anyone working on my car unless it's unavoidable and if I let them put them on they are not gonna follow those instructions precisely like I would.
 
Toe - measure at the same spot on the front part of each the tire tread (side to side) and in back (side to side) and try to get it close to the same measurement, lean towards the front measurement being slightly smaller so you get a little toe in.

Camber - use a level on the side of the tire going 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock to set camber. I would just get it level and that would be good enough to get to the shop.

Caster - typical thought here is to center the caster adjustment on both sides call it good.

Anyhow that is how I have done it on a couple cars and it got me to the alignment shop and I went mostly on side roads. Remember to take the Maximum Motorsports installation instructions with you so the tech knows what to set the toe, camber, and caster to. I have had them argue with me so now I call ahead and make sure they will set it to my specs. Typically they will but you get no warranty.
 
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