300 rwhp.. blower or mild h/c/i

Funny it seems like most would do a H/C/I over the Supercharger. Me I would do just the opposite.

They just had a article on this very subject. In 5.0 or MM&FF I will try to find it. They put a Vortech on a stock engine and dynoed it then they took it off and did the H/C/I and dynoed it, then put the Vortech back on tested it again.

If I remember right the Vortech made better overall power. Stock drivability and gas mileage when cruising. When you are cruising the Vortech is just freewheeling because the bypass valve is open and no boost. No loss of bottom end torque which normally happens with a larger camshaft. And bolt it on in a weekend and if you sell the car just take it off and get some money back if you want. The low boost kits don't take alot of tuning they are pretty safe with the FMU that is recommended. I would still get it dynoed and check the A/F .

Plus the sound of one (I like the noisy ones) is a big plus for me. Also every time you open the hood!

I have owned Vortech, Procharger, and Kenne Bell supercharged Mustangs and would do this first. Once you have boost you get addicted to it!

dstang01 said:

Is a larger MAF necessary? I hear some people run these setups on stock injectors (im planning on getting 24#) is the larger MAF a must get? Also, is the stock fuel pump alright for this setup?

Click to expand...

It's pretty obvious you may want to upgrade even after the H/C/I or the supercharger.

Either way, I would look at going a little more extreme for the same amount of money.

I bought 42lb injectors and a Lightning Mass Air meter. The Lightning M/A is a QUALITY Ford piece. You can get them NEW for less than $100. I bought both the meter and the 42lb injectors from Summit. I had them price match: www.buyfordracing.com <--- bad experience with them, so I just used them for a cheap price.

Summit owns Trick Flow, so it's usually cheaper to buy from them anyway, so why not get it all from the same place?

Now with the 42lbers and Lightning M/A you will HAVE to have a tune.... but you really need one anyway if this is going to be your DD.

http://www.lasotaracing.com/Late model maf.html

Good info at Don's site above.

I had him burn me a chip for my setup. The money I saved on the M/A meter helped on the chip price.

I had planned to go this route for some time on a 306.... instead I got a good deal on a 331 stroker setup. So for $16 I upgraded to the TrickFlow stage 2 cam. I also had forged pistons thrown in and a girdle.

JUST in case this new setup (even with my 125 shot) isn't enough. Hey I got the bug what can I say. I had my engine builder weld a plug in my oil pan. JUST in case I feel the need to throw a vortech on the setup.

Details of my build can be found here:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=688786

Oh and less I forget.... Aluminum heads LOSE weight on your engine. A Supercharger ADDs weight. Not that is matters much... but still. And removing things out of my engine bay is my plan, not adding stuff to work around.

dstang01 said:

Is $3000 considered inexpensive for a new performance h/c/i on a 5.0? Everyone always comments on the cheap aftermarket for the 5.0, is this about what Ill be looking to spend?

Click to expand...

Here is a copy and paste from your original post in this thread

The car will be a daily driver, and driven mostly on the street.
Reliability, torquey powerband, drivability and decent gas mileage
are top priority (by decent, i mean around 20 mpg with mixed driving)

I wanted the same goals as you
except
My Stang is a weekend toy only

My main focus was on ... as you call it a "torquey powerband"

I found the close to what I was looking for at that time by looking at
dyno results from peeps using my sig heads, cam, and intake.

I knew I could add additional torque to the low end and mid range
with LT's and an optimized spark table but I would have to get new
headers/mid pipe and some kind of tuning device which would add
even more to to my investment here

And speaking of money

3 Grand won't even come close to what I ended up spending
to accomplish my game plan
and
Since I do all my own work ... I'm talking parts only
btw ... I'm talking new parts here

Heck ... To duplicate my method of self tuning which is just about the
least expensive way to have full pcm access with datalogging will
set you back about 1 Grand alone.

H/C/I is just the start here :Word:

When you add in all the other supporting stuff to complete the package
like injectors, fuel pump, rockers head bolts, gaskets, yada, yada, yada,
the money starts to add up real quick

Sure ... You can do h/c/i on the cheap with OEM parts but ........
The chance of you accomplishing all your above goals with them is not
as good as if you go with after market parts IMHO.

One more thing ... A combo like talked above would just absolutely
suck with tall gears ... You're gonna need a steep rear gear ratio

You're gonna have to dig a bit deeper to make all that happen IMHO!

Grady

I made my supercharger happen for about 3 grand on the nose, give or take. I too did all the work myself and searched for deals on things like SCT chips, MAF and such.

I don't see why you couldn't buy the H/C/I package, buy a MAF, score a used chip somewhere, some 24 lb injectors, which can be had for dirt cheap.. Then get it tuned. You're in Canada so I'm not sure how much dyno shops charge to tune, or if they'll tune with a customer supplied chip. That's how I saved a ton of money with my setup!!

I think you could slide in there for under 3K. And since you won't have a power adder, tuning won't be that critical at first. You can bolt the kit up and see how it does. No worries about blown head gaskets or grenading engines.

The_Mustang said:

I made my supercharger happen for about 3 grand on the nose, give or take. .

Click to expand...

That's an Oxymoron but point is well taken!!

RC

Yeah I noticed that too..lol.. I was too lazy to change it!