$3000 - brakes or suspension?

T

traded5.0

New Member

May 5, 2005

15

0

0

Yucaipa, Ca

Oct 9, 2008

#1

• Oct 9, 2008

• #1

What do you guys think? $3000 to spend and cant decide what to do. I have an 05 gt manual with 3:55. 245/40/19 front, 275/35/19 rear, C&L street intake with brenspeed sct tune. I think I will also get some gears. Saving extra for a supercharger is out of the question. I really cant decide what to do. I want it to be faster but cant afford to supercharge. Any sugestions? Thanks

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 9, 2008

#2

• Oct 9, 2008

• #2

Well if you want it to be faster, neither the suspension or the brakes are going to do it ...

My opinion is to go full bolt on ... UDPs, CMCVs, 93 octane tune, O/R X pipe with Magnaflow Magnapacks. Than spend the rest of suspension like Tokico D-Specs, Steeda Sport springs, LCAs, sway bars, etc.

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

0

46

Houston TX

Oct 9, 2008

#3

• Oct 9, 2008

• #3

If you want to be faster on the track (the one with curves) you get suspension stuff.

Get a good kit which will run you about 1300 or so and do the rest on brakes and whatever you find that fits the budget. The car will be much more enjoyable to drive trust me.

 

ct07gt

Member

Feb 14, 2008

377

0

16

Oct 10, 2008

#4

• Oct 10, 2008

• #4

You could get a nice suspension setup and still have enough money left for the GT500 brake upgrade. Gears would be a very noticeable improvement as well, especially since you are staying NA.

 

autumn_again

New Member

Oct 2, 2007

356

0

0

Hamilton, NJ

Oct 10, 2008

#5

• Oct 10, 2008

• #5

in what way do you want to be faster? if in a straight line, i'd say frontsway bar delete and new radiator support, lower and upper control arms, underdrive pullies, charge motion delete plates, set of drag springs 4.10 4.30s or so. maybe 4.56s. headers, mid pipe, axle back. and a custom tune.

 

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

Aug 31, 2006

1,679

2

38

Central VA

Oct 10, 2008

#6

• Oct 10, 2008

• #6

No matter where you will be going faster, better braking is always a plus! By next spring, I will be replacing at least the brake lines and pads.

 

T

traded5.0

New Member

May 5, 2005

15

0

0

Yucaipa, Ca

Oct 11, 2008

#7

• Oct 11, 2008

• #7

I decided not to go for faster because I cant afford a supercharger and there isnt much to do other than that to make it ALOT faster. So, looking for some good alternatives. I think I am going to go for handling since stock is lackluster to say the least. I have eibach sportline springs right now. But thats it. Loks like upper and lower control arms would be good so far. coilover setup? I'm getting 4:10s for sure. Aluminum driveshaft? what to do, what to do...

 

deftsound

Please ask me how much my supercharger cost

Apr 6, 2004

945

1

39

Texas City TX

Oct 11, 2008

#8

• Oct 11, 2008

• #8

save your money for a supercharger, unless you want to keep getting beat by new edges...im sorry but upgrading your brakes would be pointless..a good suspension i could justify but upgrading brakes on a near stock car....waste of money

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 11, 2008

#9

• Oct 11, 2008

• #9

traded5.0 said:

I decided not to go for faster because I cant afford a supercharger and there isnt much to do other than that to make it ALOT faster. So, looking for some good alternatives. I think I am going to go for handling since stock is lackluster to say the least. I have eibach sportline springs right now. But thats it. Loks like upper and lower control arms would be good so far. coilover setup? I'm getting 4:10s for sure. Aluminum driveshaft? what to do, what to do...

Click to expand...

Listen to my post ... It will make you go faster and you will have good handling !!

 

UrbanRedneck

New Member

Mar 27, 2008

173

0

0

Oct 11, 2008

#10

• Oct 11, 2008

• #10

longtubes, cams, gears, control arms.

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 11, 2008

#11

• Oct 11, 2008

• #11

Cams !? Pssh !!

 

M

mjk

Member

Jun 22, 2006

87

0

17

NE IL

Oct 12, 2008

#12

• Oct 12, 2008

• #12

I'd go ebay long tubes, cams, raised fuel cut, gears, springs, brake pads

EDIT: and sticky tires

 

UrbanRedneck

New Member

Mar 27, 2008

173

0

0

Oct 15, 2008

#13

• Oct 15, 2008

• #13

NastyStang113 said:

Cams !? Pssh !!

Click to expand...

what?

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 15, 2008

#14

• Oct 15, 2008

• #14

They really aren't that great.

 

UrbanRedneck

New Member

Mar 27, 2008

173

0

0

Oct 18, 2008

#15

• Oct 18, 2008

• #15

I always though 40+ horsepower at the wheels was pretty good. Especially since a set of cams costs barely any more than a CAI/Tune.

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

0

46

Houston TX

Oct 18, 2008

#16

• Oct 18, 2008

• #16

UrbanRedneck said:

I always though 40+ horsepower at the wheels was pretty good. Especially since a set of cams costs barely any more than a CAI/Tune.

Click to expand...

+1 and then the idle How can we not love that sound!

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 18, 2008

#17

• Oct 18, 2008

• #17

UrbanRedneck said:

I always though 40+ horsepower at the wheels was pretty good. Especially since a set of cams costs barely any more than a CAI/Tune.

Click to expand...

Sure that 40+ rwhp sounds great but than you see the true power numbers at part throttle and different spots on the power curve and you see the big picture. I bet most people won't like this picture, especially if the car is a daily driver. I've seen the results first hand and unless you don't care about part throttle power or it's just a race car than I'd save my money for something else.

 

UrbanRedneck

New Member

Mar 27, 2008

173

0

0

Oct 19, 2008

#18

• Oct 19, 2008

• #18

Part throttle power is not as important as part throttle driveability. If you want power, you open the throttle. And I have not heard of anyone having issues with driveability with mild cams. Plenty of people run mild and not so mild cams in daily driven cars with different engines, why should these be any different? And i've daily driven a car with a carbureted big cammed stroker that barely idled at 1000 RPM.

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

1

0

Florida

Oct 19, 2008

#19

• Oct 19, 2008

• #19

I never said anything about driveability. Personally, I'm not going to put anything in my car that is going to cause a loss of power ANY where. If that's fine for you, than so be it, but people need to know that it will happen. Mod motors are VERY different. I have also driven cars like that, not sure what your point is there.

 

UrbanRedneck

New Member

Mar 27, 2008

173

0

0

Oct 19, 2008

#20

• Oct 19, 2008

• #20

Pretty much anything you do to add power N/A is going to loose power somewhere in the curve. If there is no loss of low end power at WOT or close to it, that is all that really matters as far as power goes. At part throttle you obviously aren't trying to accelerate too hard, if so then just open the throttle more. The only part throttle issue form bigger cams is drivability. If drivability is still good, and there is a sizable increase in power throughout most of the powerband and no loss down low, especially if the car is geared for it, then I don't see a problem.