3000 Stall or T-5 Swap???

#21
The 2500 stall from edge was around 2-300 bucks, not sure. That's a hell of a lot better than the 3000 one for 600 bones. I thought of the 3000 since it's better but since I am keeping my stock cam, I can stick to 2500 and save a lot of money from the swap and higher stall. My immediate plans are to install the 4.10s, install the l/t I just bought, get a prochamber and the chip. After that, either the stall or the swap, and the stall seems the smart way to go. So again, should I be fine with the 2500??
 
#22
95Vert said:
The 2500 stall from edge was around 2-300 bucks, not sure. That's a hell of a lot better than the 3000 one for 600 bones. I thought of the 3000 since it's better but since I am keeping my stock cam, I can stick to 2500 and save a lot of money from the swap and higher stall. My immediate plans are to install the 4.10s, install the l/t I just bought, get a prochamber and the chip. After that, either the stall or the swap, and the stall seems the smart way to go. So again, should I be fine with the 2500??
Click to expand...


That sounds like a great plan the only thing I would add would be a good Shift kit, tranny cooler and aluminum drive shaft to cut down on the vibrations since you are going to be spinning it a lot faster. I think you will be very happy especially when you get the 4:10's in.

One more thing you might want to wait until you get your chip recalibrated before doing the gears. I have heard that if the gears are changed without a recalibrated chip it will burn your transmission up. Maybe someone can confirm this but it is what I have heard.
 
#23
Nucking Futs, I already have a TransGo shift kit and a B&M Tranny Cooler. The FRPP aluminum driveshaft is also sitting at home waiting to go on, but I haven't installed it cause I think my differential is slightly slid to one side (rear side impact) and don't want to risk bending the aluminum one. I haven't fixed it cause I want to get my "body kit" on and take it to get painted and have them fix that at the same time. I also have a springs, controls arms, and shocks/struts just screaming :fuss: at me to get on the car. All I'm missing is a good set of subframes. I want to get done with mods (for now) :cool: and start with looks. I really doubt that I'll dish out the cash for a set of heads and cam anytime soon, even though our stock heads suck, but it's more likely that I'll buy a ZEX kit :nice:.

PS, I'd be really happy if I'm able to track 13s with that set-up, that's really my goal, will it be possible??
 
#24
95Vert said:
The 2500 stall from edge was around 2-300 bucks, not sure. That's a hell of a lot better than the 3000 one for 600 bones. I thought of the 3000 since it's better but since I am keeping my stock cam, I can stick to 2500 and save a lot of money from the swap and higher stall. My immediate plans are to install the 4.10s, install the l/t I just bought, get a prochamber and the chip. After that, either the stall or the swap, and the stall seems the smart way to go. So again, should I be fine with the 2500??
Click to expand...
yeah,,as long as your keeping the stock cam.I have a PI's 2800,and its a little to big.If I had it to do over again,,Id get a 2500 :nice:
 
#25
Not sure if anyone said this yet but switching to a better stall will get more of that power you are losing to the ground.

And I see no reason you cant crack 13's with that set up. I have faith that with a good stall, shift kit and header's alone I will be in the 13's with my current set up. My current best is 14.4 without my MAF or ported lower manifold so I cant wait to get a good stall in there.
 
#26
PS, I'd be really happy if I'm able to track 13s with that set-up, that's really my goal, will it be possible??[/QUOTE]

I would say 13's shouldn't be a problem at all. The only thing that might be a problem is traction especially with a good torque converter you shouldn't have a problem. Like it was said earlier a torque converter just multiples torque so more of it gets to the tires. I have a very mild built 347 that I "wanted" to say emission compliant but as the engine loosens up that is becoming a problem and my car made 380 ft torque last dyno run.

Have you thought of getting your stock heads ported or switching them out to the P-head? That might be an option and you wouldn't loose drivability by keeping your stock cam.
 
#27
How about a few thoughts from an old timer who has been down the 1/4 mile with the full tilt boogy auto & stick trans :D

When you drop the clutch at 6k with your right foot on the floor and after the wheels touch down you hit three perfect power shifts and scream through the lights at 6k plus

WELL .................

That is way more fun than pulling up to the line and you Point, Stab, & Steer.

I'm not putting down the auto trans at all cause they have many advantages that is for sure.

I'm just saying that if you've got a stick set up just right to go down the 1/4 mile with a good bit of hp behind it you KNOW that YOU have driven that car to its maximum potential.

IMHO, you get way more of a feeling of satisfaction & accomplishment when you assault the 1/4 mile with a stick trans :nice:

Later
Grady
 
#28
mystang94gt said:
Not sure if anyone said this yet but switching to a better stall will get more of that power you are losing to the ground.

And I see no reason you cant crack 13's with that set up. I have faith that with a good stall, shift kit and header's alone I will be in the 13's with my current set up. My current best is 14.4 without my MAF or ported lower manifold so I cant wait to get a good stall in there.
Click to expand...
A good stall should get you 5-7 tenths with traction :nice:
 
#29
final5-0 said:
How about a few thoughts from an old timer who has been down the 1/4 mile with the full tilt boogy auto & stick trans :D

When you drop the clutch at 6k with your right foot on the floor and after the wheels touch down you hit three perfect power shifts and scream through the lights at 6k plus

WELL .................

That is way more fun than pulling up to the line and you Point, Stab, & Steer.

I'm not putting down the auto trans at all cause they have many advantages that is for sure.

I'm just saying that if you've got a stick set up just right to go down the 1/4 mile with a good bit of hp behind it you KNOW that YOU have driven that car to its maximum potential.

IMHO, you get way more of a feeling of satisfaction & accomplishment when you assault the 1/4 mile with a stick trans :nice:

Later
Grady
Click to expand...
:rlaugh: :rlaugh: Nicely put :nice:
 
#30
final5-0 said:
How about a few thoughts from an old timer who has been down the 1/4 mile with the full tilt boogy auto & stick trans :D

When you drop the clutch at 6k with your right foot on the floor and after the wheels touch down you hit three perfect power shifts and scream through the lights at 6k plus

WELL .................

That is way more fun than pulling up to the line and you Point, Stab, & Steer.

I'm not putting down the auto trans at all cause they have many advantages that is for sure.

I'm just saying that if you've got a stick set up just right to go down the 1/4 mile with a good bit of hp behind it you KNOW that YOU have driven that car to its maximum potential.

IMHO, you get way more of a feeling of satisfaction & accomplishment when you assault the 1/4 mile with a stick trans :nice:

Later
Grady
Click to expand...

Again... nicely put! :nice:

Damn, I thought I had made my mind up but after reading through all the posts again, it just keeps getting harder. :bang: I don't know, I mean, one big reason why I'm holding back on the swap is because I'm guessing it might be a hassle to do the swap. Even if it's done by a shop. If something doesn't come out right, I'm gonna have problems with my car. Is this true or am I mistaken? I'm also thinking of just staying with the auto and getting the chip and stall and see where that takes me. I guess that after I get the stall, I will change my mind about aodes, but until I do something, I'm just not gonna know.

PS: About the P-heads, will I need different headers, cause I just got my l/t and would hate to have to buy another set. Maybe porting the heads might be an option. If I do so, will I need anything else to go with the ported heads?
Thanx
 
#35
One more thing to consider is the price. Not sure if you have tons of cash piling up around you but the t-5 swap will cost AT LEAST as much as the converter and new gears. And as far as performance is concerned it will make a much bigger diff than the t-5 swap alone.
 
#36
final5-0 said:
How about a few thoughts from an old timer who has been down the 1/4 mile with the full tilt boogy auto & stick trans :D

When you drop the clutch at 6k with your right foot on the floor and after the wheels touch down you hit three perfect power shifts and scream through the lights at 6k plus

WELL .................

That is way more fun than pulling up to the line and you Point, Stab, & Steer.

I'm not putting down the auto trans at all cause they have many advantages that is for sure.

I'm just saying that if you've got a stick set up just right to go down the 1/4 mile with a good bit of hp behind it you KNOW that YOU have driven that car to its maximum potential.

IMHO, you get way more of a feeling of satisfaction & accomplishment when you assault the 1/4 mile with a stick trans :nice:

Later
Grady
Click to expand...

Ok guys

I would think this goes without saying but after some thought I feel the need to say a thing or two more just in case someone is new to our hobby and I want to help people on this forum and not mislead or confuse a newbee.

All of the above stuff that I said is cool and way fun but you won't find that kind of stick setup on a street car. That car did find its way on the street a time or two but lets be honest here, you won't be able to use that kind of equipment to its fullest potential on the street.

Bottom line is that wrinkle wall slicks, spools, 456's with only a 1 to 1 high trans gear, and the like just don't belong on the street.

Later
Grady
 
#37
I've got a fully built AODE with vavle body and I love it and would trade it for the world.

I love racing kids in 5 Speeds that think there car us fast because they are manual.

Who ever I give a ride says, what the hell was that everytime the car shift's from 1-2 and 2-3.

It is like a mule is kick you hard in the beep.

Racing on the street I gain half a car lenth on my friend with a 2003 GT 5sp every time he pushs the clutch in to shift.. eveytime my car shifts i get thrown forward.

Def try to drive a built auto defore doing the swap, I had the luxury of driving in my dad's old 85 monte carlo with a built Auto.

a 5sp with a perfect driver is just as good but I prefert to let the tranny do the work.
 
#38
Just my opinion, but I used to have an 87gt auto w/a 2400 stall and ger shift kit, and the stall really did wake the car up. When I raced my friends, if they weren't good at shifting, everytime they would shift I would gain on them, and the car launched pretty hard. But now that I have the 5spd in my 95, I like the manual more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Engine Stalls when downshifting/coasting
Replies
11
Views
663
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Mustang5L5
Mustang5L5
O
SOLD FS: 18" FR500 chrome wheels and Toyo tires
Replies
1
Views
77
Other Classifieds
optionizerSS
O
S
Fox '87 GT can't get to stay running
Replies
27
Views
640
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
spilly
S
H
Forced Induction On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor
Replies
21
Views
905
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
slow84lx
S
9
Milton Questions, 351 swap newedge
Replies
1
Views
198
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Killer351w
K
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu