302 to 302 H.O. Conversion

cup1981

New Member
Aug 22, 2005
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Okay guys, I am new here and I have what may be a stupid question...I just bought an 84 Lincoln Towncar w/ a 5.0 rebuilt with only about 10K. What I am looking to do is convert this to an H.O., I have the H.O. upper and lower intake coming, $9.99 on Ebay. I was wondering what else I need to do to convert this to an H.O. to drop it in a Mustang.

Is this even worth it, should I just put a 4 barrel carb on it and some internal mods. FYI this is a throttle body injected engine.

Lastly I am probably going to be stuck getting a 4 cyl mustang, I will ask about that conversion later, but if you guys have any info on any of these please help me...I am new with Fords, Converted Chevy man here :shrug:

Thanks!!! :cheers:
 
Well the biggest difference between the 5.0 and 5.0 H.O. motors is that the firing order is different. I don't really think you can do anything to fix that (some might disagree)

To get your motor close as possible you will need to get some 87-93 heads, a bigger cam and your stock intake. While you are building this it would be a good idea to have the parts ported to get the most out of the truck heads and restrictive lower intake.
 
srothfuss said:
Well the biggest difference between the 5.0 and 5.0 H.O. motors is that the firing order is different. I don't really think you can do anything to fix that (some might disagree)

To get your motor close as possible you will need to get some 87-93 heads, a bigger cam and your stock intake. While you are building this it would be a good idea to have the parts ported to get the most out of the truck heads and restrictive lower intake.

I already have the upper and lower intake from a 93 H.O., so I wont need to port it, correct? I also found a set of heads from the same year for $40, can I put the cam and intake from that same vehicle and put the in this engine?

I am hoping to find an H.O. GT that is blown up so that I can take some of the bolt up parts, and use the body.
 
The HO camshaft firing order has to match up with the computer you are using if you're going with efi.

Also, the HO's had roller lifters -- if your car is flat tappet, you need to check the block closely to see if it will accept the HO non-linked lifters. Some blocks won't without machine work - which means you'll have to use linked lifters to convert it to a roller. E7 heads are the ones you're looking for from an HO.
 
If what you're after is an efi HO STang, especially since you're new to the game, you'd likely be much better off just buying one than trying to merge together an old Lincoln (which in 84 was probably not a roller motor) 5.0L with a 4 cyl. chassis. In addition to heads, headers, proper oil pan and pump, cam/lifters, wiring harness and computer, fuel pump, etc., you've also got to source the proper tranny and rear end.
 
Michael Yount said:
If what you're after is an efi HO STang, especially since you're new to the game, you'd likely be much better off just buying one than trying to merge together an old Lincoln (which in 84 was probably not a roller motor) 5.0L with a 4 cyl. chassis. In addition to heads, headers, proper oil pan and pump, cam/lifters, wiring harness and computer, fuel pump, etc., you've also got to source the proper tranny and rear end.

Well, I am a good mechanic and own my own shop, so I am capable of doing this, I live in Florida and people here just want way too much for GT stangs. Now if I can find one blown up, then that I assume would be the way to go. Merging this w/ a 4cyl will just be a last resort.
 
Michael Yount said:
Sounds like you know what you want to do - first place I'd start is pulling the intake off the Lincoln motor to see if it's a roller or not....

Good luck with the project.

Pulled the intake off, the only problem is that the ports are square on the block and the H.O. intake has round ports. Dont think this would be a problem, but now I am thinking just going w/ a 4 barrel and tweaking the internals, and just bypassing the CPU alltogether, it'll prob make my job a lot easier cause I am using an AOD tranny that has no electronics in it...what do you guys think of that idea?
 
Sounds like you pulled the UPPER intake off; you have to remove the lower to find out if you've got a roller or not.

There are no ports on the 'block' -- the square ports you're referring to are in the lower intake; the round ones are in the upper intake. You need a matching HO lower intake to go with your upper it sounds like.

As mentioned before -- it's fairly complex merging these efi systems together. The way you're referring to things tells me you've got a pretty steep learning curve to come up on.

If you're gonna build a carbed engine, that will definitely make things simpler.

Pull that lower intake and see if you've got a roller block or not.
 
Michael Yount said:
Sounds like you pulled the UPPER intake off; you have to remove the lower to find out if you've got a roller or not.

There are no ports on the 'block' -- the square ports you're referring to are in the lower intake; the round ones are in the upper intake. You need a matching HO lower intake to go with your upper it sounds like.

As mentioned before -- it's fairly complex merging these efi systems together. The way you're referring to things tells me you've got a pretty steep learning curve to come up on.

If you're gonna build a carbed engine, that will definitely make things simpler.

Pull that lower intake and see if you've got a roller block or not.

No, its not a roller block. I just found a GT in an impound lot w/ a blown motor, I can prob take the parts I need off of it and stuff this engine in it.
 
Get the GT (entire car), you'll need the 8.8 rear end, the front spindles and brakes, double hump cross-member (if it's an auto), if it's a 5 speed, even better (you could sell the 5-speed kit and make some cash for your build.

Actually with the entire parts car, going EFI is pretty damn simple. Just use the 84 block with flat tappet cam, buy a comp cams 351W flatt tappet cam like a .500/.500 lift and it will work with the HO EFI computer. Use the GT distributor but I think you'll need to change the gear to match the flat tappet cam.
 
cup1981 said:
No, its not a roller block. I just found a GT in an impound lot w/ a blown motor, I can prob take the parts I need off of it and stuff this engine in it.


What is blown on the motor? The best way to make a ton of usable power with a Mustang motor is as follows:

1) Buy a set of aftermarket heads or port your E7TE's to get some better Flow. FYI - stock mustang heads are really truck heads

2) Buy an aftermarket intake or port your lower stock intake to get some better Flow. FYI - the stock lower is one of the biggest restrictions in a stock mustang motor

3) Swap the cam. The stock cam is actually pretty good in a 5.0 H.O. motor, but if you have a non-H.O. block you will probably benifit from a more agressive cam.

Do those things to the motor (once it's all cleaned up and rebuilt of course) and you will have a nice street car. Staying carbed would be nice, but EFI is so much cooler (IMO)
 
Boss 351 said:
Get the GT (entire car), you'll need the 8.8 rear end, the front spindles and brakes, double hump cross-member (if it's an auto), if it's a 5 speed, even better (you could sell the 5-speed kit and make some cash for your build.

Actually with the entire parts car, going EFI is pretty damn simple. Just use the 84 block with flat tappet cam, buy a comp cams 351W flatt tappet cam like a .500/.500 lift and it will work with the HO EFI computer. Use the GT distributor but I think you'll need to change the gear to match the flat tappet cam.

Ya, Its a five speed. I have an AOD from this lincoln that I am going to make some valve body mods and turn up the EPC solenoid so I can fry off the tires in all gears, if I want to. I am making more money off of the licoln for parts that I paid for the car, so it has been free so far.

So you think I should sell the 5 speed and use the AOD??
 
srothfuss said:
What is blown on the motor? The best way to make a ton of usable power with a Mustang motor is as follows:

1) Buy a set of aftermarket heads or port your E7TE's to get some better Flow. FYI - stock mustang heads are really truck heads

2) Buy an aftermarket intake or port your lower stock intake to get some better Flow. FYI - the stock lower is one of the biggest restrictions in a stock mustang motor

3) Swap the cam. The stock cam is actually pretty good in a 5.0 H.O. motor, but if you have a non-H.O. block you will probably benifit from a more agressive cam.

Do those things to the motor (once it's all cleaned up and rebuilt of course) and you will have a nice street car. Staying carbed would be nice, but EFI is so much cooler (IMO)

The 5.0 I have is rebuilt w/ only 10K on it, and it is Throttle Bocy injected, I am just debating whether toconvert to carb or convert it over to the H.O. EFI. If I can get this GT then I will go EFI but if I am stuck w/ a 4cyl I will eliminate the computer and go Carb. This GT is wrecked in the front so I gotta see how bad it os.
 
If you have a built AOD, it would be better for racing (more consistant) than the T-5. If your parts car comes with one you can probably make a few dollars on the pedals / tranny.

Boss also had some good advice about what stuff to get off the donor car like the rear end, wiring, etc.
 
I just got through going through this conversion. The engine in my '87 GT is out of a lincoln ('84 to be exact.). I pulled all of the efi off of my old engine and placed it onto the new one. When I timed it I ran the plug wires for the non-ho firing order and the car runs fine whith no problems other that the ones it had before the swap. As for making it a roller, all you have to do is find a bad engine and pull the spyder out of it with the retaining bolts and then tap your bolck to accept the bolts then replace your lifters with roller and install the spyder. (the spyder is in the lifter valley held down by two small bolts.) I did no cam change or nothing and the car runs better than it did. I am still using the stock '84 heads btw.

You said that in Fl. GT's are through the roof, then why not travel up into Al, or Ga? Hell I am fixing to buy three for $700.00. 82 Gt t-top car (still has the 302 and an auto) w/ title, '84 coupe (with a 351 and an auto) w/ title, and a '86 hatch parts car.


Hope this helps,
Nate
 
I read all of these ideas, and no one has mentioned that the crank must be changed.
Different firing order means different crank and matching camshaft.
The 302 H.O. roller motor shares the same firing order as the 351W.
Ford did this to try to improve on a bearing wear problem that the 302 always had. Why they didn't continue it is beyond me, cause it worked very well.

When the piston reaches TDC on compression stroke,it wants to see both valves closed, fuel compessed, and spark started.

Won't happen with mismatched camshaft and crank.
 
"I read all of these ideas, and no one has mentioned that the crank must be changed.
Different firing order means different crank and matching camshaft."

The reason no one mentioned it is because you're severely mis-informed. Camshaft (when the valves open and close) determines firing order - not the crank. The only differences between cranks are material and manufacturing process (cast iron, steel, cast, forged, etc.) and journal size (351 has bigger journals than a 302) -- other than that the throws are configured exactly the same. To convert a 302 to an HO firing order simply use a cam for an HO application and 1) for carbed cars - just wire the distributor accordingly; 2) for sefi cars - use a computer that has an injector firing order that matches the cam you've chosen.

Crank has nothing to do with it on this application.
 
"theres an HO flat tappet cam right? I have a flat tappet cam, and the H.O. firing order.....


couldnt he just put in an HO flat tappet and call it a day?"

Yeah just buy a 351 cam, that's what my current 302 has...