So im saving up money 4 a torque converter. I was thinking to go with a 3200 stall converter and from what ive heard it could possibly drop .2 to .5 seconds off my et times. Im also going to get some slicks. Im thinking mickey thompsons, i heard there 1 of the best. I havent taken my car to the track yet but b4 i do these two mods i will and then after to see how i do. Now this saturday i raced some guy in a little ricer, a honda which i found out later was running a 12.5 et at the track with a trap speed of 118 mph. I lost $100. It was a 20 mile roll to a 100 mph. He beat me by about 2 1/2 to 3 car lengths. Would the torque converter and some slicks help me to beat him. What do you guys think. I'd really appreciate your opinions.
3200 Stall enough?
- Thread starter AztecPride775
- Start date
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
yeah that would be good for the trans, i see taht you have gears so go for it........also if you hevnt done so already do the cooler cause you will need it after the mod to keep the fluid temp down
look into PI convertors with a triple plate they are pricey like 500-800 bucks
look into PI convertors with a triple plate they are pricey like 500-800 bucks
68torinogt
Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
Before you invest in anything else, I would seriously consider investing in a transmission cooler. You're definately going to need one with an aftermarket converter.AztecPride775 said:
Whatever torque converter you go with, you better make sure to tell them the mods you have listed in your signature, and give them as close of an estimate as to how much hp and torque you have, or they'll never get the stall correct. Personally, I wouldn't do anymore than a 3400-3600 stall on a daily driven street car, as it can make it one mean street car to drive around town. I have a 3200 stall converter that I drive everyday, and it's plenty for me.
Something else you need to do is try to look into getting a converter that is built to last. A single disk torque converter from PI is NOT what you want. They can't handle wide open throttle lock ups, let alone handle the power a blown GT like yours is putting down. Get something with a high carbon friction plate for the torque converter clutch, and you'll do fine. I've also heard good things about the PI multi-disk torque converter.
BTW, street racing is a
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
Street racing??? Me???? How'd u know? Yeah i wasnt going to race him but no 1 else would i guess they thought he was ''sooooo fast''. We exchanged numbers and he's giving me a rematch. I plan on getting my money back and some more. And Yeah id rather pay 800 dollars for a durable converter that will give my stang the results that im looking for than save a few bucks and get 1 that wont handle what my car has. As of now the tires i have are the toyo proxy's but the tire threads are almost completley gone so i might go with the mickey thompsons and the 3200 stall converter. 2 do something right the 1st time and do it right. DARK KNIGHT GT? what kind of improvement did you see from your 32000 stall converter compared to your stock converter? Do you feel a big difference on the launch and during the whole quarter mile pass? And how many seconds did it drop from your et?
joshheat25
Member
Maybe I have a misconception here but I thought a torque converter only helped out of the hole! I thought it allowed you to rev higher up to "3200" or whatever the stall. Does it affect 1-2 shifts and 2-3 shifts. I know its a no on 3-4 !! ???
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
I think the Mickey Thompsons would be a good idea, because I'm going to tell you right now that anything less than a true drag radial is NOT going to grip traction at all with a high stall converter. Let alone in a GT with your current mods + a high stall converter.AztecPride775 said:
I have yet to run my car at a 1/4 mile track. Sadly, I live in the middle of a state where the closest 1/4 mile track is hours away. However, I can tell you my car can take off WAY faster and harder than it did before the converter. Before the converter, I could barely chirp the tires. After the converter, I can spin the tires to the rev-limited, and into second gear. I won't even tell you how much worse they spin once I added 4.30's following the torque converter.
The average person drops around .35-.55 of their 1/4 mile times. At least this is what I usually see. A car that can actually grip traction and with a supercharger will probably notice more around the .50 - .60 off their 1/4 mile time.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
The torque converter is mainly a hole shot mods. It allows you to build up your torque and stall before launching. As for affecting shifts, it can soften the shifts, which is why most people do the Jerry mod shift kit to their transmissions, or at least have it tuned to get the shift points the way they want them.joshheat25 said:
OK here is the Deal.......A PI stall converter is the best mod you could invest in....and you will need a set of MT's to put it down! I have a 3200 PI in my car now! Dropped the 60ft by .3 tenths! But you will need a custom tune to maximize it! Dropped overall with out a tun .5 sec in the 1/4. With it tuned properly and good traction......almost a full second! My car puts down low 1.7 60fts all day long and runs 12's with full bolt ons...with some upper and lower control arms you could get into the high 1.6 60ft range. As far as the stall being for off the line only.....BS! It keeps you in your power band at WOT! I would highly suggest a tranny cooler and a transgo shift kit with the highest setting....it is totally streetable and being an electronically controlled......the shaft that the converter is mounted too is hollow and allow fluid to engage the clutch plate inside....so yes the converter can and will lock up at low rpm's......all it takes is a little pressure from the solenoids for it to engage and is all programed through your computer. Wide Open throttle tables in your computer don't allow for lockup until it hits the designed rpm....(thats where a custom tune really helps!) On the older cars a stall would just spin to a certain rpm....with the obdII computer......it tells the stall when to engage! HP doesn't matter as much like it used to with non lock up converters.....With a 3200 stall...the car is extreemely streetable......kinda wished I would have put in a 3600! But yes........stall it, stick it and kick that honda's ASS!
"ED"
"ED"
Maybe i'll go a little higher than a 3200 stall converter and i went to a local performance shop and they recommended to stay between 3000 and 3500 stall for a street car and to go with wider tires i think theres a brand called et or they said mickey thompson. They told me the tranny cooler is about 80 dollars and half an hour to install for them so wouldnt be to bad. They recommended a yank converter and the price of it is about $750 plus $400 for labor and tunning and i have the diablo tuner. As far as the guy in the honda, he said he's running the 1/4 mile in 12.5 seconds and trap speed is 118 mph. He beat me by about 3 car lengths i dont know how much time that equals to. But yeah ed wish me luck because im for sure racing that guy back and this time i hope the outcome is different.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
VicRattlehead
Founding Member
Yellow2002GT said:
I highly DISAGREE with "ED"s choice on a shift kit. the transgo kit WILL DESTROY a perfectly good trans. you want quicker shifts do this....
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html
*** Ford OD Transmissions 101 - Jerry's mod
*** A-Train's Shift Kit Install - Jerry's mod
*** Modifing Valve Body to Jerry's specifictions - Jerry's mod
doing thoes will keep the trans alive and work well with a sct tune.
second, for a tc id recommend Circle D ( http://www.circledspecialties.com ) or Dirtyd0g (alan http://modularmisfits.com/forums/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=294 ) for the converter.
I agree with the above post. I had some issues with transgo shift kits back when I was into GM cars. I have never personally done the J-mod but I have heard good things from those that have.
Ad far as the converter goes, The best PI converter is the multi disc units those go for around 1,000 but the multi disc is a must if you want to lock the converter at WOT.. Locking the converter durring WOT will eliminate some slipage so it's a good idea.
Ad far as the converter goes, The best PI converter is the multi disc units those go for around 1,000 but the multi disc is a must if you want to lock the converter at WOT.. Locking the converter durring WOT will eliminate some slipage so it's a good idea.
VicRattlehead
Founding Member
svttech76 said:
unfortunatly for me, i bought a pi converter multi disk blah blah blah thousand dollars later, i had to send it to circle d to have them reline the clutches cause the CRAPPY paper clutch material they use will not hold up at all. the stuff that circle d and alan use wont fail like the paper stuff does.
so now my trans is worth more then my car
$1500 -- complete built trans (built by Alan Dirtyd0g)
$ 750 -- lentech strip terminator valve body w/ trans brake
$1000 -- Precision Industries 'Stalion' torque converter
$ 550 -- Circle D restall converter 4200, reline clutches
$ 100 -- trans cooler
$ 100 -- Mercon V trans fluid ( a must)
---------
$4000
Yeah I heard that the clutch material used is not great on the PI's So I assume you are locking your converter at WOT if you wore them out? If so how long did it take for the PI clutch material to fail?
What does circle D use for a core if they build a converter for you. I don't know that much about the circle D converters, last time I messed with autos I was into gm's and most people were running PI's or yank.
What does circle D use for a core if they build a converter for you. I don't know that much about the circle D converters, last time I messed with autos I was into gm's and most people were running PI's or yank.
VicRattlehead
Founding Member
svttech76 said:
i didnt have my pi in the car that long, my problem was the trans took a crap and instead of putting the converter into a new tranny, i decided to have it checked out just to be on the safe side, didnt want to put it in the new trans if it had any issues. so after circle d took it apart he sent me pics and the clutches were fine. didnt really need to be redone at all, would have been fine putting it back in as is.
circle d re-used my pi converter so i didnt need any type of core. i dont know what they would need.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
I figure I'll go ahead and post up in here.
Despite what converter unit you get, be sure to get something with a high carbon friction lining for the clutch material, and NOT something made of Kevlar, or Raybestos. Raybestos is the "paper stuff" that Vic was referring to above. It honestly will not hold up to lock ups at wide open throttle. High carbon friction lining is the only one that will suffice in the long run.
I too agree with the Jerry mod shift kit. I have the valve body in my car with the Jerry modifications done to it, and it shifts great. I run Amsoil full synthetic transmission fluid, and I am using a deeper aftermarket pan so that it holds an extra 3 qts. This helps in keeping the transmission running cooler.
Despite what converter unit you get, be sure to get something with a high carbon friction lining for the clutch material, and NOT something made of Kevlar, or Raybestos. Raybestos is the "paper stuff" that Vic was referring to above. It honestly will not hold up to lock ups at wide open throttle. High carbon friction lining is the only one that will suffice in the long run.
I too agree with the Jerry mod shift kit. I have the valve body in my car with the Jerry modifications done to it, and it shifts great. I run Amsoil full synthetic transmission fluid, and I am using a deeper aftermarket pan so that it holds an extra 3 qts. This helps in keeping the transmission running cooler.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
Circle D does make their own converters by the way. You don't need to send them a base model converter to modify. Just call Chris at Circle D, and talk to him.
I have heard alot of good things about the J-mod and wouldn't mind trying it out for back to back comparisons........Having used 2 of the transgo shift kits before.....I would reccomend them to anyone! As far as durabilaty.......The transgo works perfect! never had a problem shifting and the old valve body is in perfect shape! Just my dam c clamp came off my OD sprag gear and recked havok on my OD! lol Car had 80,000 miles on it and still worked great....other than the OD slipping! With the stage III shift kit the car feels perfect! Have another friend with a stage III kit and they love it! Its all about preference I guess.......The only question I ask myself is why does bauman and lentech use shift kits and not the Jmod......I thought they sell the best products out there.................??
"ED"
"ED"
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