331 Need More Hp

[95BlueStallion]

Where else would you recommend shedding weight. I've lost the back seat spare tire and jack. still would like it to be comfortable enough to cruse on the weekend. I also have smog pump and AC deleted.

I am pretty sure someone made a thread with every little thing you could think to remove, and how much it weighed. Sounds like you have removed about everything I would, personally. You could go to manual steering or brakes to shed some more weight, but those are not depts I would dive to with a street driven car.

 

[Real time recon]

Need to get it down to 2,000 pounds...Then your all set

 

[Real time recon]

This 1/4 calculator is close >> http://xcceleration.com/et.calculator.html
for me..345 hp/ weight 2100/ 1/4 mile 10.6 /speed 128

 

[Davedacarpainter]

This 1/4 calculator is close >> http://xcceleration.com/et.calculator.html
for me..345 hp/ weight 2100/ 1/4 mile 10.6 /speed 128

Sure, yeah, if you have a bichin' little cobra.....

 

[Real time recon]

Sure, yeah, if you have a bichin' little cobra.....

LOL a little something special just 4U >>> sing along ...
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc6FmZCT0Zc

 

[revhead347]

Just put nitrous on it.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

I promise the nitrous is just as challenging as trying to build an NA engine. It's a pain in the ass too. None of this is easy.

Kurt

 

[2000xp8]

I'll put this as delicately as possible (for me at least).
10's should not even be part of the conversation yet.
Unknown cam, unknown bottom end, good heads, wrong injectors, undersized meter and intake on a mass air swapped t top.
I'd be surprised if it survived or even ran a 12 pass.
Can you really trust someone that put these parts together as combination to have done the cam and the shortblock correctly? It would be like saying someone that painted their car with a roller and brush did the body work and prep correctly.

10's takes a minimum of 425rwhp and that's for seasoned drivers with well put together combinations on drag cars. With 19's, you are at least 125rwhp short of that and my guess would be 150rwhp.

Cutting weight would help if the car ran 11.2 or 11.30, but other than that, it's a waste of time and all it will do is devalue the car, especially a t top.

Then let's talk about the chassis, 10's even takes massive power or extreme traction (maybe even both), the whole suspension will have be heavy duty, especially on a car that all it has is a T brace in the roof. If you like the way the roof panels sit now, you may not after a 10 second run without a cage.

I didn't see a transmission mentioned, a t5 isn't going to survive a 10 second run and an unmodified aod well...

Bottom line is that the ignition is the least of the worries.
A 10 second car is purpose built from the ground up.
Look around and see how many guys here have run 10's, it's not many and some have been doing this a long time. I don't buy into it when people say they have 10 second cars or power, but they never ran 10's. You either received a 10 second timeslip or you don't have a 10 second car, period, speculation is moot. I think 12's can be assumed and maybe in some cases 11's, but 10's, no way.

IMO, forget the quarter mile and get the engine together correctly with the right injectors, bigger meter and intake and make sure it runs well and reliable. Then shoot for 12's and work your way up.
I also think it would be insane to just slap nitrous on a very questionable engine.

 

[90sickfox]

10s will put a lot of stress on that t top...might even break them if the chassis isn't complete tied together.

I decent complete t top car is becoming harder and harder to find and they don't make good drag cars.

 

[deathb4dismount]

A 10 second car is purpose built from the ground up.
Look around and see how many guys here have run 10's, it's not many and some have been doing this a long time. I don't buy into it when people say they have 10 second cars or power, but they never ran 10's. You either received a 10 second timeslip or you don't have a 10 second car, period, speculation is moot. I think 12's can be assumed and maybe in some cases 11's, but 10's, no way.

This should be a sticky. I always see guys claiming they have a 10 second street car, and the cars spend more time on jack stands than on the street. I'll take my 13 second street car that I can drive when I want over your 10 second jack stand car. I understand the need for speed, but at some point your car becomes a race car, and if that's the case then it should be built like one.

 

[2000xp8]

This should be a sticky. I always see guys claiming they have a 10 second street car, and the cars spend more time on jack stands than on the street. I'll take my 13 second street car that I can drive when I want over your 10 second jack stand car. I understand the need for speed, but at some point your car becomes a race car, and if that's the case then it should be built like one.

I spend a lot of time lobbying against quarter mile cars. Having a friend with a mustang shop for 25 years I've seen it all.
I've probably seen 100 good street cars turned slowly into race cars, it's a progression that all too often ends with broken cars being parted out for penny's on the dollar.

I too have been been guilty of needing more and more hp. Unfortunately more power needs more chassis, more suspension, more transmission, then when you are done the engine gets messed up and you repeat the process at a higher level. It's never ending.

Me personally, i'd take a nice mid 12 T top all motor with a full interior, ac that rides well over a 10 second t top anyday.

 

[Gear grabber]

I spend a lot of time lobbying against quarter mile cars. Having a friend with a mustang shop for 25 years I've seen it all.
I've probably seen 100 good street cars turned slowly into race cars, it's a progression that all too often ends with broken cars being parted out for penny's on the dollar.

I too have been been guilty of needing more and more hp. Unfortunately more power needs more chassis, more suspension, more transmission, then when you are done the engine gets messed up and you repeat the process at a higher level. It's never ending.

Me personally, i'd take a nice mid 12 T top all motor with a full interior, ac that rides well over a 10 second t top anyday.

They don't have to be ''broken'' to sell for penny's on the dollar.
Anyone building from scratch,a 10 second street car,(the right way)will have
more money in it,then they ever will admit. The only ''profit'' is,those that
matter know it's a 10 second street car. You can look forward to every chump
you see at the gas station,telling you about the faster car he has. (that you will never see)
Chances are there is a town or 2 where law enforcement has told you if they
see the car again they will impound it. If it's all motor,your neighbors will complain
about the noise and how there windows rattle when you start the car. With a spool
and DOT slicks,god forbid you get caught in the rain.

All that aside, when I think back on my last all motor,pump gas 10.50's street car.
I just smile.

 

[Gear grabber]

You missed the point.

 

[deathb4dismount]

You missed the point.

Ooh, ooh, I found it! I found it!

All that aside, when I think back on my last all motor,pump gas 10.50's street car.
I just smile.

 

[Dan gibson]

I'll put this as delicately as possible (for me at least).
10's should not even be part of the conversation yet.
Unknown cam, unknown bottom end, good heads, wrong injectors, undersized meter and intake on a mass air swapped t top.
I'd be surprised if it survived or even ran a 12 pass.
Can you really trust someone that put these parts together as combination to have done the cam and the shortblock correctly? It would be like saying someone that painted their car with a roller and brush did the body work and prep correctly.

10's takes a minimum of 425rwhp and that's for seasoned drivers with well put together combinations on drag cars. With 19's, you are at least 125rwhp short of that and my guess would be 150rwhp.

Cutting weight would help if the car ran 11.2 or 11.30, but other than that, it's a waste of time and all it will do is devalue the car, especially a t top.

Then let's talk about the chassis, 10's even takes massive power or extreme traction (maybe even both), the whole suspension will have be heavy duty, especially on a car that all it has is a T brace in the roof. If you like the way the roof panels sit now, you may not after a 10 second run without a cage.

I didn't see a transmission mentioned, a t5 isn't going to survive a 10 second run and an unmodified aod well...

Bottom line is that the ignition is the least of the worries.
A 10 second car is purpose built from the ground up.
Look around and see how many guys here have run 10's, it's not many and some have been doing this a long time. I don't buy into it when people say they have 10 second cars or power, but they never ran 10's. You either received a 10 second timeslip or you don't have a 10 second car, period, speculation is moot. I think 12's can be assumed and maybe in some cases 11's, but 10's, no way.

IMO, forget the quarter mile and get the engine together correctly with the right injectors, bigger meter and intake and make sure it runs well and reliable. Then shoot for 12's and work your way up.
I also think it would be insane to just slap nitrous on a very questionable engine.

Thanks for all the good info. What size meter would you recommend for the bigger injectors a lot of people have recommended the 42lb. Also is the 75mm Tb that's on it now big enough for the new injectors and intake I'll be putting on? I will be putting on the Vic jr intake so ittle match. Also the frame is all tied and the transmission has been built. I did take it to the track last week. Best I did was a 12.9 at 110. Keep in mind my tires are terrible and everyone I have talked to said the track is terrible. Was hoping to run faster but could not get traction. Idled off the line and first and second I could not give it any gas. Once I hit 3rd it would spin a little and hook up the rest of the way. Like I said my tires are terrible so I have Mickey Ts et streets on the way which will hopefully cut quite a bit off time. Also after going to the track I have decided that I will be plenty happy with a high to mid 11s 10s might be a little extreme since it's my summer time cruiser. Last but not least you mentioned cutting weight what else would you recommend cutting have the seat delete AC and smog pump still want power brakes and power steering. Any other tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated thanks. Dan

 

[2000xp8]

Me personally, I don't believe in over sizing the injectors for future use.
I'd use 30's with an 80mm (or bigger) pro M calibrated for those 30's. It will run just fine without having to get into tuning, if you don't want to.
NA with a 302 block, you aren't going to outflow 30's.
The 75mm tb is fine, just make sure the intake opening is that big.

Sometimes on a street car it isn't about the ET, it's about the mph and that mph says you probably have somewhere around 300rwhp.

Since you have the victor, I guess I would try it, just remember, it's a high rpm intake, you will probably lose some low end power and it may not feel as good on the street. It may peak in power after the rev limiter, and no I would not remove the rev limiter on a stock block.
An rpm II would be my choice, but they do not come cheap.

As for the weight thing? I'd forget about that completely.
In fact, i'd put the AC back in (it weighs nearly nothing) and same goes for the rear seats.
At .1 per 100lbs, you are missing those items for a tenth of a second. I'd rather climb into a complete interior and have the option to use the AC if I want to than an extra tenth.

I think with traction, practice and a better intake system you will do notably better, but still nowhere near 10's or 125mph.