Where else would you recommend shedding weight. I've lost the back seat spare tire and jack. still would like it to be comfortable enough to cruse on the weekend. I also have smog pump and AC deleted.
Sure, yeah, if you have a bichin' little cobra.....This 1/4 calculator is close >> http://xcceleration.com/et.calculator.html
for me..345 hp/ weight 2100/ 1/4 mile 10.6 /speed 128
LOL a little something special just 4U >>> sing along ...Sure, yeah, if you have a bichin' little cobra.....
A 10 second car is purpose built from the ground up.
Look around and see how many guys here have run 10's, it's not many and some have been doing this a long time. I don't buy into it when people say they have 10 second cars or power, but they never ran 10's. You either received a 10 second timeslip or you don't have a 10 second car, period, speculation is moot. I think 12's can be assumed and maybe in some cases 11's, but 10's, no way.
This should be a sticky. I always see guys claiming they have a 10 second street car, and the cars spend more time on jack stands than on the street. I'll take my 13 second street car that I can drive when I want over your 10 second jack stand car. I understand the need for speed, but at some point your car becomes a race car, and if that's the case then it should be built like one.
I spend a lot of time lobbying against quarter mile cars. Having a friend with a mustang shop for 25 years I've seen it all.
I've probably seen 100 good street cars turned slowly into race cars, it's a progression that all too often ends with broken cars being parted out for penny's on the dollar.
I too have been been guilty of needing more and more hp. Unfortunately more power needs more chassis, more suspension, more transmission, then when you are done the engine gets messed up and you repeat the process at a higher level. It's never ending.
Me personally, i'd take a nice mid 12 T top all motor with a full interior, ac that rides well over a 10 second t top anyday.
You missed the point.
All that aside, when I think back on my last all motor,pump gas 10.50's street car.
I just smile.
Thanks for all the good info. What size meter would you recommend for the bigger injectors a lot of people have recommended the 42lb. Also is the 75mm Tb that's on it now big enough for the new injectors and intake I'll be putting on? I will be putting on the Vic jr intake so ittle match. Also the frame is all tied and the transmission has been built. I did take it to the track last week. Best I did was a 12.9 at 110. Keep in mind my tires are terrible and everyone I have talked to said the track is terrible. Was hoping to run faster but could not get traction. Idled off the line and first and second I could not give it any gas. Once I hit 3rd it would spin a little and hook up the rest of the way. Like I said my tires are terrible so I have Mickey Ts et streets on the way which will hopefully cut quite a bit off time. Also after going to the track I have decided that I will be plenty happy with a high to mid 11s 10s might be a little extreme since it's my summer time cruiser. Last but not least you mentioned cutting weight what else would you recommend cutting have the seat delete AC and smog pump still want power brakes and power steering. Any other tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated thanks. DanI'll put this as delicately as possible (for me at least).
10's should not even be part of the conversation yet.
Unknown cam, unknown bottom end, good heads, wrong injectors, undersized meter and intake on a mass air swapped t top.
I'd be surprised if it survived or even ran a 12 pass.
Can you really trust someone that put these parts together as combination to have done the cam and the shortblock correctly? It would be like saying someone that painted their car with a roller and brush did the body work and prep correctly.
10's takes a minimum of 425rwhp and that's for seasoned drivers with well put together combinations on drag cars. With 19's, you are at least 125rwhp short of that and my guess would be 150rwhp.
Cutting weight would help if the car ran 11.2 or 11.30, but other than that, it's a waste of time and all it will do is devalue the car, especially a t top.
Then let's talk about the chassis, 10's even takes massive power or extreme traction (maybe even both), the whole suspension will have be heavy duty, especially on a car that all it has is a T brace in the roof. If you like the way the roof panels sit now, you may not after a 10 second run without a cage.
I didn't see a transmission mentioned, a t5 isn't going to survive a 10 second run and an unmodified aod well...
Bottom line is that the ignition is the least of the worries.
A 10 second car is purpose built from the ground up.
Look around and see how many guys here have run 10's, it's not many and some have been doing this a long time. I don't buy into it when people say they have 10 second cars or power, but they never ran 10's. You either received a 10 second timeslip or you don't have a 10 second car, period, speculation is moot. I think 12's can be assumed and maybe in some cases 11's, but 10's, no way.
IMO, forget the quarter mile and get the engine together correctly with the right injectors, bigger meter and intake and make sure it runs well and reliable. Then shoot for 12's and work your way up.
I also think it would be insane to just slap nitrous on a very questionable engine.
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