Honestly, you are clueless.
You do know what a mass air meter does right?
It's extremely important that it meters the air accurately so you get the right amount of fuel.
Clueless? I am a mechanical engineer with a specailization in hybrid powertrain design, and I've worked for one of the big three. I have a printed copy of the GUFB strategy document that I keep on the back of the *****er and read for fun. I am hardly clueless about what a MAF is and does.
You can't just simply strap the stock sensor to a big piece of plastic pipe and call it a day.
Tuning equipment instead of a proper meter, are you serious?
Nowhere am I advocating that the OP make his own meter; I am saying that it can be done - and it can. You will note, again, that my point is that the sensor package is what is important, not the body of the meter.
Even if he did have the QH, what exactly is that going to do for him?
If I were him I'd adjust the scalar for the correct size of the engine. Next would be to adjust the scalars for the emissions equipment he's probably removed. Then I'd adjust the slopes and breakpoints of the injectors to match what he's got in the eninge. Next, I'd lower the cranking pulsewidths for the injectors. MAF transfer would be next. Finally, I'd tweak the WOT table for spark and fuel to get the last little bit of power out of it. All of that will get him an engine that starts easy, has stock driveability, makes more power, and gets better mileage than he gets now. That's exactly what he'd get.
His still have an undersized meter with no flow sheet.
I agree that the meter is undersized. He got a flow sheet with his meter and if he's lost it, a flow sheet is a call away from C&L.
Let me guess, your car has "perfect" driveability, right? Except for when it's a little hard to start on cold mornings or after you've been driving it a while. Or when the idle surges a little bit, or when you feel that little flat spot in your power at WOT. If that is what you want in your car, fine; but it doesn't have to be that way.
If you think you're going to be able to a reliable mass air transfer function in your garage with some PVC pipe, a drill and a hack saw, you're sadly mistaken.
Will the Quarter Horse allow this type of adaptation? Sure it will. ["IF"] you have an accurate meter transfer function table for the Quarter Horse to interpret. That will require (at minimum) the use of the flow bench 2000 mentioned above.
I would beg to disagree on this. Have I ever tried, no - but I think it would be doable. Have you?
Other problems associated with this kind of fabrication are the turbulance problems created in even a straight cut tube. These problems are also the inhearant weakness in meter that use sample tubes. Pipe X is Y milimeters in diameter and produces Z voltage resistance at XX airflow. Now let's sidline the whole process by stuffing a tube in there and say that, that's going to be an accurate representation of of what the meter 'would' read if the dimater were XX1 instead of XX and also assume that tube is going to scale correctly with both resistance and airflow.
I agree completely. I would not run a C&L (or any other "calibrated" MAF) on my car and expect it to perform like stock. Hence my point that the MAF needs to be tuned to it's (as in it's very own) transfer function for OPTIMAL performance. I don't know that you are infering this, but you are wrong if you think that a C&L meter can't be tuned because of the potential turbulence the sample tube creates in front of it. With the technology the QH and BE/EA have you can easily isolate individual load/speed points and adjust the MAF curve to be accurate at that point - all without a dyno.
You do leave out a bigger point which is that any "calibrated" MAF, not just those with sample tubes, fools the computer by sending a signal that represents a mass flow different from what is actual. And that because that mass flow is different from actual, the computer will NEVER get its caluculations for load correct. This will cause driveability issues at part throttle and other states. You further leave out the fact that having a calibrated MAF in no way changes what the computer does during cranking - this is entirely based on the cranking pulse width table and is NOT affected by the MAF. This will cause hard starting.
lets take a novice and toss him/her into the mix with a Quarter Horse and presume that the correct tune will be self-evident.
It's really not that hard. Is there a learning curve, yes. But there is great support and truly anyone can pick it up.
Good luck...
