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Sorry for leaving you guys hanging....
I did manage to get the car to run ok, however I still wasn't happy with it's not so perfect idle and CEL for the missing EGR. Since the ECM is 33 years old I figure it's on borrowed time so I've installed a Holley Terminator X foxbody kit. I just got it running yesterday, I've been watching Leech Motorsports videos as well as some other Youtube foxbody guys that have used this kit, so far I'm very impressed....haven't driven it yet as I'm working out a no start hot issue I've had since installing the engine. I just installed the high torque 92 starter and it just clicks, it sounds like it tries to engage the ring gear but but doesn't. I did some research and the OEM starter has 9 teeth and these have 10, but from everything I've read these are a direct replacement after making the necessary wiring changes.
Any ideas guys?
Thank you all again for this wealth of information this site provides!!!
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I would sure like to see the same number of teeth on the replacement starter
The ten tooth might be just bigger enough around (diameter) to bind up the starter like you are experiencing
You should be able to switch the SD-302? starter drive though
Ford made several drives back in the day SD 302 was a common one
I had a reman OEM starter and it wouldn't start when the engine was hot, so I decided to go to my local parts store and bought a replacement starter for a 92 Mustang (mine being a 89) I don't think it's the cables as it started fine when the other starter was in there cold, just not hot. From everything I've read it should be a straight swap. When trying to start it, there is a definite click, sounds to me the drive comes out and doesn't engage the ring gear, this is when I researched the two starters have a different amount of teeth. I have an extra ground to the a/c bracket.
My car has an AOD if that makes any difference.
No start hot issue is almost always from not enough amps getting to the starter from high amp load. Should have 0-1 gauge cable from the battery to the solenoid. Also 0-1 gauge wire from the battery ground to the block. I always use welding as it has a lot more strands than the typical battery cable. More strands, more capacity (amps) and easier to route as the cable bends easier.
They also make heat sleeves for the starter to keep it from getting heat soak.
I never had any starting issues with the car before I rebuilt the engine (now a 347) after I installed the engine and took it out for a drive, this is when it wouldn't start hot.
Checked timing again and it was ok at 12 deg, cables and connections looked ok. Assumed it was a :poo:ty rebuilt starter, so I decided to change it to the 92 style and wired it accordingly. First attempt and it just made a loud click like the drive came out but didn't engage the ring gear. This is when I researched the two starters and found a different tooth count on the drive
General, that was what I was thinking with the original starter but never did a voltage drop test, seeing that the main starter cable is original to the car, I think I will order the proper 92 and up cable from LMR and see what happens
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I had a slow crank/no start after i installed the engine. I decided to install the 92 style starter as an update and for preventative measures. This is when the no crank just click issue presented itself, it really sounds to me like the starter isn't engaging the ring gear, not a poor connection "click"
I really do appreciate all your input, I'll have more time with it this weekend and hopefully can get it sorted. starts now, turns out the "new" starter was a POS, returned it and installed another new starter and no problems now. Let the car run for a long time while attempting to tune the Holley and it starts every time now.
I had to give my parts guy a hard time as he's a Chevy guy and most parts they sell are AC Delco brand, I always ask if they have any different brand as I don't want to poison my car with that junk! :notnice:
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