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342 stroker great set up.. no power

  • Thread starter Thread starter torch93
  • Start date Start date Nov 6, 2010

torch93

Member
Aug 14, 2010
143
0
16
bakersfield c.a
Nov 6, 2010
#1
  • Nov 6, 2010
  • #1
hey guys, symptoms: i built a 342 stroker... and im having problems gettin the full %100 of the set up... now when idle the gauge reads 38psi and while in neutral and rev up wot the gauge moves up 5lbs.. so far so good right? now when drive and i wot it starts to cut of really bad, but if i cruise it and start giving it %10 of throttle it starts pulling really good til i reach about 40 50 % then once i pass that then the car loses power still have all the RPM noise but not going anywhere? ..

MODS: i got the 342 stroker kit with all forged internals, walbro 255 fuel pump, 24lbs injectors, bbk fuel pressure regulator, 95 gt fuel rails, 76mm maf C&L with the blue tube calibrated to 24lbs, 75mm bbk throttle body, typhoon upper and lower intake, stock IGN.... any senors i need to change or anything i need to buy? pointers are welcome too! if need more info ill ne grad to
 

jrichker

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Nov 6, 2010
#2
  • Nov 6, 2010
  • #2
Fuel pressure is high - the injectors are flow calibrated at 39 PSI with no vaccum. When you apply vaccum to the intake manifold, it does the same thing as rasing the fuel pressure. So with a good 18-20 inches of vacuum, you should have 30-33 PSI of fuel pressure with the regulator connected to the vacuum.

Checking the fuel pressure the right way:
Disconnect the small vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and plug the line. Leave the port where you removed the line uncapped and open to the atmosphere. Start the engine and let it idle. Then check the pressure, you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.

If the recheck or adjustment of the fuel pressure doesn't work, then dump the codes.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 

torch93

Member
Aug 14, 2010
143
0
16
bakersfield c.a
Nov 8, 2010
#3
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #3
if i would to get a obd1 scanner would it tell me the code# even though the check engine light is not on??
 

torch93

Member
Aug 14, 2010
143
0
16
bakersfield c.a
Nov 8, 2010
#4
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #4
UPDATE!!! dont know if this helps but this problem started to happen even before i built my 342!!!! ok i had my almost bone stock 5.0 it had a CAI, full exhaust, and i was taking names left and right! lol! then i ran into sum used ford racing injectors and a 73mm C&L MAF, from there it was down hill, ,.. could it be my MAF? i got no one near with a extra MAF i can use ... honesty im just about to give up, hoping theres a solution for all this, cause ALOT of MONEY went into this set up and im run slower than stock 5.0s
 
H

Haus

Member
Jul 20, 2005
408
0
16
Nov 8, 2010
#5
  • Nov 8, 2010
  • #5
torch93 said:
if i would to get a obd1 scanner would it tell me the code# even though the check engine light is not on??
Click to expand...

you dont even need the scanner. just need a paper clip. look a Jrichker's post about checking for codes.

and the engine light does not need to be on for there to be codes
 

torch93

Member
Aug 14, 2010
143
0
16
bakersfield c.a
Nov 10, 2010
#6
  • Nov 10, 2010
  • #6
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!! The difference is incredible!... turned out my mass air sensor was shot... made my 24lbs into like 8lbs! so now i gotta buy a Mass air sensor calibrated to 24lbs.. thanks for the help though guys! loving this site
 
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