347 Buildup Begins

WhiteDevil said:
Yeah the garage is good, its a 3 car and im taking up all three one with my car and the rest with parts off my car. I am going to have to clean it up tommorow so my dad can get his Mach 1 back in.


That funny because when my car needs worked on and I have it here at my house, all of the other cars get kicked out to the driveway until its done. I HATE working on a car in cramped quarters.

I'm leaving now to go pick up my engine, maybe I'll be thrashing on it here soon too!
 
Killercanary said:
That funny because when my car needs worked on and I have it here at my house, all of the other cars get kicked out to the driveway until its done. I HATE working on a car in cramped quarters.

I'm leaving now to go pick up my engine, maybe I'll be thrashing on it here soon too!
Sweet maybe we will finally get to know the combo?????:nono:
 
What displacement is your new engine Paul? What is the static and dynamic compression ratio?

Your lower intake is now a larger restriction on the 185 heads than the 165s - I'd ask Ed to evaluate if the cam can mask the restriction with the duration/lift he has in the cam for the 185 heads.

Best of luck...........
 
Hey K-member is finally here. It will be going in tommorow! Anyone have an tips on the reinstall of the new K-member? Here a couple pics

K-Member
K11.webp

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03 Cobra A-arm
Aarm1.webp
 

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WhiteDevil said:
Hey K-member is finally here. It will be going in tommorow! Anyone have an tips on the reinstall of the new K-member? Here a couple pics

K-Member
K11.webp

View attachment 454085

03 Cobra A-arm
Aarm1.webp
i like that k-membr design much better than mine. it looks like there is no grinding necessary on the a-arms for them to fit. is that correct?
 

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I still believe the A arms will have to be modified to work with that K.

The install of a K is pretty straight forward. It's just a couple of bolts.

TIP-Don't overtighten the A arm bolts or the ears on the K will cave in.
 
Green 94 5.0 said:
i like that k-membr design much better than mine. it looks like there is no grinding necessary on the a-arms for them to fit. is that correct?
They seem to fit in there fine. I emailed them to ask just to be sure, but they keep answering my second question and not my first one(which is about the A-arms) this time i sent them just the A-arm question so hopefully they will answer it this time :)
 
WhiteDevil said:
They seem to fit in there fine. I emailed them to ask just to be sure, but they keep answering my second question and not my first one(which is about the A-arms) this time i sent them just the A-arm question so hopefully they will answer it this time :)
if they fit and have a full range of motion, you shouldnt need to grind anything. i had to take more than 1/8" off the back of the a-arms to get them to bolt up and have the right range of motion on the qa1 k-member.
 
igotyofire said:
So i am curious on what you plan to use to have it tunned?
I am using a Tweecer. I have had it for about a year and half now. I tuned my H/C/I to run perfect. I already have a tune that should be pretty damn good. Then i will tweak it with EEC Analyzer and make the changes i need to make it run tip top. Im only using 30#ers so i copied some of Gradys(final50) breakpoint and min_pulsewidth numbers as a starting point.
 
VibrantRedGT said:
I still believe the A arms will have to be modified to work with that K.

The install of a K is pretty straight forward. It's just a couple of bolts.

TIP-Don't overtighten the A arm bolts or the ears on the K will cave in.
On the PA racing K stock A-arms fit with no modifications as per email from their tech guy. I have them in now and they fit great. He said to TQ all the bolts to 75-80ft/lb. I just need to get my rack and bumpsteer kit on and the whole suspension will be done. Then i can put the car on the ground and TQ the A-arm bolts. I noticed that even with only a little pressure on them the ears seemed to move a little. I think with 80ft/lb they will move in even more.
:shock: